parison -a foolproof way to wire connection for a canopy that is intermittently removed
-i would recomend a 4 prong trailer plug.
wire a would be for the hot side for the 3rd brake light.
wire b would be power for the interior light.
wire c for a decent ground.
wire d explained later
then atach wire b and d together and fuse it for a possible sig lighter plug on the cap to recharge your cell or spotlight etc.. run the wire inside the truck box behind the turn signal light and attach it under the bed lip then the other half can be atached to your cap just unplug and remove cap I know on the 98+ trucks there is a dead ended wire underneath the CJB (central junction box) under the hood. If you remove the box, there will be a green wire with the end shrink tubed. It's power right from the brake switch. If you wire the brake lamp of the canopy into the brake light itself, it will blink when you have the signal on.

Thank you for the help with hooking up my truck cap lights (third brake light and dome light). In your description of the four prong trailer plug you never said what the "d" wire is for. Just curious!

Thanks!


"i would recomend a 4 prong trailer plug.

wire a would be for the hot side for the 3rd brake light.
wire b would be power for the interior light.
wire c for a decent ground.
wire d explained later"

i was thinking of a constant hot wire for maybe a sig lighter inside for charging a cell phone or spot light while camping? wasn't real sure what could be added.

So the D prong on the harness is an always hot wire?

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Sold:2004 XLT 4x2 Ext. Cab. 3.0 Mods: 3" spindle, AAL, shackle, 32x11.5 on 15x8s, billet grille, clear corners, flow 40 dumped, line-x, CB/PA, traction bars, lil sound system, auto up down windows
Sold:2005 XLT 4x4 Ext. Cab. 4.0 Mods: ProComp lights w/ HID swap on tabs, 32x11.5 on 15x8s, CB/PA, black out heads/corners, lil sound system, cranked t-bars, flow 40 dumped, line-x, shell, bed rug, 06+ tails, metal tail gate handle since plastic one shattered, OHC, Mustang Dome.

If connected to an always on power point, yes it would be hot all the time.

If you were to wire it up as stated above, you may want to have the side of the trailer plug with 3 terminals in the molded boot on the truck side, rather than on the cap side. Doing it that way would protect the always hot, brake, or interior light circuits from contacting ground by being in the molded section, and ground the exposed pin.

Doh, I am an idiot I was reading this as attaching it to the factory trailer harness.

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Sold:2004 XLT 4x2 Ext. Cab. 3.0 Mods: 3" spindle, AAL, shackle, 32x11.5 on 15x8s, billet grille, clear corners, flow 40 dumped, line-x, CB/PA, traction bars, lil sound system, auto up down windows
Sold:2005 XLT 4x4 Ext. Cab. 4.0 Mods: ProComp lights w/ HID swap on tabs, 32x11.5 on 15x8s, CB/PA, black out heads/corners, lil sound system, cranked t-bars, flow 40 dumped, line-x, shell, bed rug, 06+ tails, metal tail gate handle since plastic one shattered, OHC, Mustang Dome.

no problem, I'm not firing on all 4 cyl right at the moment either.

they make those plugs with a rubber cover to keep the dirt and road debris out when not in use that's what i used on mine.

I would really like to know how to do this as it seems to have been deleted...

What happened?

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2001 Ford Ranger Supercab (4dr), Oxford White, 4.0 Sohc, 4x4, Manual trans (hurst equipped), 4:10's, 3" body lift.

Fixed
Original Poster got mad and deleted it all.

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Thanks STL!