Ford Ranger Forum - Forums for Ford Ranger enthusiasts!

Go Back   Ford Ranger Forum - Forums for Ford Ranger enthusiasts! > > >
Forgot Password? Join Us!

Welcome to Ford Ranger Forum

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread

  #1  
Old 11-27-2010, 01:35 PM
dixie_boysles dixie_boysles is offline
5.Oh All the way

 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 6,581
Send a message via Yahoo to dixie_boysles
Default HOW TO: Replace Rear Pinion Seal

In this How-To, I will be showing you how to replace the rear pinion seal in the 8.8 Rear-end in the event that it is leaking.

Discalimer: Neither I nor FordRangerForum.com takes any responsibility in any damage or actions resulting from this how-to. When performing this how-to, you are doing so at your own risk.

Tools Needed:
  • safety glasses
  • gloves (I used Mechanic gloves)
  • 12mm 12-point socket
  • 1/2" drive ratchet
  • 1 1/16" Socket
  • screwdriver
  • hammer
  • vise grips
  • REALLY big socket or pipe section
  • caliper set
  • jack
  • jack stands
  • bucket
  • pipe extension for ratchets
  • strap
  • loctite
  • silver Sharpie

Instructions:

First find a good place to work on your truck, preferably a good flat concrete surface. Chock the front tires and place truck in park and set parking brake.

Then using the rear differential as a jacking point, jack the rear-end of the truck up to desired height and place jackstands under axle at U bolts and remove the jack.



Using the Silver Sharpie, mark the position of the driveshaft to the flange by making thin smooth, accurate lines; I made two marks and put a number beside them:





Now using the 12mm 12-point socket, 1/2" drive ratchet and pipe extension, loosen the driveshaft bolts. You will have to undo the parking brake and put in neutral to turn the driveshaft to get to other two bolts of driveshaft. Remember to re-apply the parking brake and put back into the "Park" position when done.



Once bolts are out, tie or strap the driveshaft out of the way like so:





Now that the driveshaft is out of the way, time to mark the flange and pinion nut. Again, using the Silver Sharpie, make thin accurate marks marking the position of the nut to the stud to the flange and the position of the flange to the differential housing:







Then take your calipers and measure the distance the pinion stud protrudes from the nut. My set was not measuring right so I just locked the calipers once i got the distance measured:



now place your 1 1/16" socket on the nut and mark its position to the the mark you made on the flange:



First place bucket under flange to catch any oil. Using your 1/2" drive ratchet, and making sure your parking brake is set and that you are in park, loosen the nut. You may have to use the pipe extension to get extra leverage on it. Now while turning the socket, COUNT how many revolutions it takes to get the nut off using your marks as references. NOTE: DO NOT LET THE SOCKET COME OFF OF THE NUT OR YOU WILL LOSE COUNT.




Now you must get the flange off. You can do this two ways, you can use a big ass hammer like I did OR use a pulley puller. If you us a hammer make sure you dont hit one side too much to get it off.



Time to take the seal out. I used Ford's recommendation of Vise Grips and a hammer and a screwdriver. Take the screwdriver and hammer and raise the lip up of the seal. It will be up against the diff. housing. once you have it lifted up, take the Vise-Grips and tighten them on the lip. Then take a hemmer and hammer the Vise-Grips towards the front of the truck and the seal will pull out.



Clean the area up with a rag and now its time to put new seal in. Take a little oil and placing it on the black rubber on the seal like you would do an oil filter seal. Firmly place the seal into place but do not force it in; just get it seated.

Now using the REALLY BIG SOCKET, and a hammer, place the big socket on the seal and hammer it down until the seal lip is flush with the differential housing. Be careful not to hammer one side in too much at one time, it needs to go in equally or you will be buying another seal:




(Sorry this pic is before I hammered it ALL THE WAY DOWN, make sure the lip of the seal is flat against the housing)

And your new seal is in!!

Now put the flange back in using your marks and then use the hammer and REALLY BIG SOCKET to hammer it back into place.



Then using the marks on your socket, nut, and flange, put the stud nut back on the same amount of revolutions it took to get it off. Then check to see of your stud distance is the same. It took me almost 17 revolutions to get mine off so I checked the stud depth at the 15 and 16 revolution mark to be certain. Once everything is aligned back up, unstrap driveshaft and bolt it back up. Before putting the bolts in, place a little loctite on them and make certain that you align your driveshaft marks up you made earlier:







Now just put everything up and let the truck down and you are good to go! Now this may/may not be the exact way to do things, but after research and looking at the Ford Workshop manual, this is the way that I did it.

Now you will have some oil that leaked out of your rearend in the bucket. At this time i just put that back in the truck as i drained it in a clean bucket. I will be replacing the rear-end oil soon, so its not a big deal. it it best to replace oil when doing this, but that is a writeup for a different time.

A big thanks to Justin Higgs for his writeup and information as well as STL (Myke) for all the texting help he did.
__________________
2014 F150 SuperCrew XLT 4x4
275/65/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W | Shorty Antenna | Tinted Windows | ProClip Phone Mount |5.0 v8 |Tow Package | Oxford White


Sold/Totaled: 2006 Ranger XLT 2D SuperCap 4x4 Torch Red
15x8 Pacer 164P Polished Wheels | 31x10.50 BFG ATs | Level II Tow Hooks | FX4 Red Insert Seats
Tinted Windows | 6000K HIDs | Kobalt Low Profile Toolbox | Pioneer Speakers

Last edited by dixie_boysles; 11-27-2010 at 01:43 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-27-2010, 01:49 PM
Clinton Clinton is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 14,049
Default Re: HOW TO: Replace Rear Pinion Seal

Great write up Scotty!!!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-27-2010, 01:51 PM
dixie_boysles dixie_boysles is offline
5.Oh All the way

 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 6,581
Send a message via Yahoo to dixie_boysles
Default Re: HOW TO: Replace Rear Pinion Seal

thanks! it didnt take as long as I thought it would. Next is replacing the rear-end oil writeup!
__________________
2014 F150 SuperCrew XLT 4x4
275/65/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W | Shorty Antenna | Tinted Windows | ProClip Phone Mount |5.0 v8 |Tow Package | Oxford White


Sold/Totaled: 2006 Ranger XLT 2D SuperCap 4x4 Torch Red
15x8 Pacer 164P Polished Wheels | 31x10.50 BFG ATs | Level II Tow Hooks | FX4 Red Insert Seats
Tinted Windows | 6000K HIDs | Kobalt Low Profile Toolbox | Pioneer Speakers
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-27-2010, 01:58 PM
Clinton Clinton is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 14,049
Default Re: HOW TO: Replace Rear Pinion Seal

Being that my truck is lifted I dont have to jack my truck up right?
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-27-2010, 02:32 PM
dixie_boysles dixie_boysles is offline
5.Oh All the way

 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 6,581
Send a message via Yahoo to dixie_boysles
Default Re: HOW TO: Replace Rear Pinion Seal

probably not!
__________________
2014 F150 SuperCrew XLT 4x4
275/65/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W | Shorty Antenna | Tinted Windows | ProClip Phone Mount |5.0 v8 |Tow Package | Oxford White


Sold/Totaled: 2006 Ranger XLT 2D SuperCap 4x4 Torch Red
15x8 Pacer 164P Polished Wheels | 31x10.50 BFG ATs | Level II Tow Hooks | FX4 Red Insert Seats
Tinted Windows | 6000K HIDs | Kobalt Low Profile Toolbox | Pioneer Speakers
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-27-2010, 02:38 PM
Clinton Clinton is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 14,049
Default Re: HOW TO: Replace Rear Pinion Seal

Excellent Smithers!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-27-2010, 04:18 PM
TurdFX4 TurdFX4 is offline
Sept. 2011 TOTM
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,771
Default Re: HOW TO: Replace Rear Pinion Seal

Ok, am I just missing something here or couldnt you just skip the whole marking the nuts and counting revolutions by using a Torque wrench and torquing it down to proper specs? My diff seal was done already, but the garage did it when i took it in for inspection.

Also, what I wouldve done was just change your gear oil while your doing this, seems like a good time to do it.


Edit: Ok , I just read that you said this would be a good time to change the oil too, I missed that, my bad
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-27-2010, 04:32 PM
dixie_boysles dixie_boysles is offline
5.Oh All the way

 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 6,581
Send a message via Yahoo to dixie_boysles
Default Re: HOW TO: Replace Rear Pinion Seal

lol Turd, well that WOULD be nice, BUT there are no specs for that. This was isn't technically the right way to do it either. It is for us that dont want to pay a shop to do it because of a certain reason.

The reason being is that the bearings are under a certain preload. When that nut is taken off, if you dont put it back right, it messes it up. Dont put the nut on enough, the gears are ate up, and too much the gears get burned up. You are technically supposed to check your bearing preload and all that shit, but I dont know how and if im right, i think the carrier and all has to be removed for that. I followed Toreador4x4's Howto and have been texting him as he was a ford mechanic. This is the way he recommended it. Here is How Ford Says to do it:

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/14942986/Pi...eplacement.pdf

here is a video i found on setting the preload on our rearends:


SO after watching thsi video, i think the crush sleeve sets does the preload, and the nut holds it in place. so we just put the nut back where it was. Also as to how accurate this video is, I dk either
__________________
2014 F150 SuperCrew XLT 4x4
275/65/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W | Shorty Antenna | Tinted Windows | ProClip Phone Mount |5.0 v8 |Tow Package | Oxford White


Sold/Totaled: 2006 Ranger XLT 2D SuperCap 4x4 Torch Red
15x8 Pacer 164P Polished Wheels | 31x10.50 BFG ATs | Level II Tow Hooks | FX4 Red Insert Seats
Tinted Windows | 6000K HIDs | Kobalt Low Profile Toolbox | Pioneer Speakers

Last edited by dixie_boysles; 11-27-2010 at 04:43 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-27-2010, 05:59 PM
Bwad Bwad is offline
Turd Generation Ranger
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,972
Default Re: HOW TO: Replace Rear Pinion Seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by dixie_boysles View Post
thanks! it didnt take as long as I thought it would. Next is replacing the rear-end oil writeup!
I'm wayyy ahead of you Scott. Haha.
http://www.fordrangerforum.com/how-s...5-rearend.html

Great write up man. But what are the side effects of not marking the driveshaft?
__________________
1997 Ford Ranger 2.3L
It's lowered and stuff.

My Build Thread
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-27-2010, 06:05 PM
terryduanemiller terryduanemiller is offline
www.shanewootenband.com
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,896
Default Re: HOW TO: Replace Rear Pinion Seal

professionally done! nice!
__________________
MY BUILD THREAD
1999 MAZDA 2500SE, 2.5L 4-clanger, 5 speed, Green n slow. Rangers as daily drivers since 1988.
ASE Certified Mechanic, Builder of Show Destroying Protouring and Classic cars..
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 11-27-2010, 06:15 PM
TurdFX4 TurdFX4 is offline
Sept. 2011 TOTM
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,771
Default Re: HOW TO: Replace Rear Pinion Seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by dixie_boysles View Post
lol Turd, well that WOULD be nice, BUT there are no specs for that. This was isn't technically the right way to do it either. It is for us that dont want to pay a shop to do it because of a certain reason.

The reason being is that the bearings are under a certain preload. When that nut is taken off, if you dont put it back right, it messes it up. Dont put the nut on enough, the gears are ate up, and too much the gears get burned up. You are technically supposed to check your bearing preload and all that shit, but I dont know how and if im right, i think the carrier and all has to be removed for that. I followed Toreador4x4's Howto and have been texting him as he was a ford mechanic. This is the way he recommended it. Here is How Ford Says to do it:

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/14942986/Pi...eplacement.pdf

here is a video i found on setting the preload on our rearends:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8APYO2sZyJU

SO after watching thsi video, i think the crush sleeve sets does the preload, and the nut holds it in place. so we just put the nut back where it was. Also as to how accurate this video is, I dk either
Ok, I was just wondering what the reasoning was. Like I said, i didnt do mine so I didn't know for sure. Great write up though. I desperately need to change my front diff oil, the pinion seal is leaking in that as well.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 11-27-2010, 06:45 PM
azgilamonster azgilamonster is offline
grumpy old ford driver
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,286
Default Re: HOW TO: Replace Rear Pinion Seal

nice write up and great pics
__________________
2001 Ranger Edge 4x4 , Stepside,FRF decals, 4.0L SOHC decals, Primus IQ brake controller, curt 2" rec. hitch, custom winch mount,
Tinted glass, Yellow BUGGMAN OVALS a real treat to have. OHC, CB, night vision goggles, 36" periscope,
DiabloAmarillo = The Yellow Devil
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 11-27-2010, 08:10 PM
dixie_boysles dixie_boysles is offline
5.Oh All the way

 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 6,581
Send a message via Yahoo to dixie_boysles
Default Re: HOW TO: Replace Rear Pinion Seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bwad View Post
I'm wayyy ahead of you Scott. Haha.
http://www.fordrangerforum.com/how-s...5-rearend.html

Great write up man. But what are the side effects of not marking the driveshaft?
I'm not sure really, I was told to due it for balancing purposes so I did it lol. ANd heck why not put it back EXACTLY how I took it apart.

Quote:
Originally Posted by terryduanemiller View Post
professionally done! nice!
thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TurdFX4 View Post
Ok, I was just wondering what the reasoning was. Like I said, i didnt do mine so I didn't know for sure. Great write up though. I desperately need to change my front diff oil, the pinion seal is leaking in that as well.
Dude, I asked the same question! It looks like it wouldnt matter but apparently it does. RF had one and we didnt, so since I was replacing mine, I figured why not make one for our site. I am by no means an expert on this, just did what i was told and read up about.
__________________
2014 F150 SuperCrew XLT 4x4
275/65/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W | Shorty Antenna | Tinted Windows | ProClip Phone Mount |5.0 v8 |Tow Package | Oxford White


Sold/Totaled: 2006 Ranger XLT 2D SuperCap 4x4 Torch Red
15x8 Pacer 164P Polished Wheels | 31x10.50 BFG ATs | Level II Tow Hooks | FX4 Red Insert Seats
Tinted Windows | 6000K HIDs | Kobalt Low Profile Toolbox | Pioneer Speakers
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 11-28-2010, 12:51 AM
ZWilson07 ZWilson07 is offline
Ford Ranger Driver
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,254
Default Re: HOW TO: Replace Rear Pinion Seal

Good write up man, Im glad to see you FINALLY decided to replace that leaky seal lol, and I hope yours doesnt start leaking again real soon like mine did. BUt now after the 2nd time its been holding fine, knock on wood. A few things yes you are correct on the preload and that video is a pretty good description. The crush sleeve is putting a certain amount of preload on the bearings and in turn getting correct load on the gears. The reason why so many want you change the crush sleeve out is because its a metal sleeve, and once its crushed its pretty much done for getting the same exact pre load. But that doesn't mean that it CANT be reused. As you know, you, myself, as well as many others have reused theirs atleast once, or even acouple times. I dont recommend it, but like you and myself and others, we really just don't have the time and knowledge to do it. BUt one day here when it warms up I will learn to set up a 8.8.

On the marking and balacing topic, idk why they say to mark the driveshaft to, ive been told the same bs answer but really in that process the only thing you should mark is the just the nut, and pinnion flange area. But every driveshaft shop around shop around says that as long as the 2 driveshaft ends are equal to each other, (like if you took it apart to grease the slip yoke) it needs to be put back exactly on the right tooth so they line up. But I do believe that that whether the driveshaft is rotated one bolt hole or so, it isnt going to matter. I tried to do what you did but after having my driveshaft taking to shops for things like another pinion seal, u joints 2 or 3 times, and stuff like that. Im sure it wasn't "marked" and put back perfectly and I have yet to have problems. I have even went as far as to have my driveshaft rebalanced, and that is done on a shops own seperate machine so I guess in essence the driveshaft is balanced to itself, and has nothing to do with being bolted to our stock 4x4 flanges if that makes sense. But w.e it will be fine either way, but good job, sorry for the long repost, I just havent been on here in awhile. and hope your seal holds better than my first one did. Hope ya had a good thanksgiving with the fam and girl. Zach
__________________
2006 Ford Ranger Supercab 4x4 XL. 4.0 5spd. To much to list-SOLD!

Ill be back
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 04-07-2011, 04:58 PM
ArmyPilot ArmyPilot is offline
Learning to use the forums
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 1
Default Re: HOW TO: Replace Rear Pinion Seal

Scott I have heard a picture is worth a thousand words and you did an excellent job.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
For those of you having to replace Rear Pinion Seal dixie_boysles Drivetrain Tech 9 11-12-2010 06:28 PM
What You Guys Think, New Pinion Seal Time ZWilson07 Drivetrain Tech 9 08-27-2010 05:05 PM
rear pinion seal replacement FX4 Drivetrain Tech 3 08-26-2010 10:31 PM
Leaky Seal! How do I replace?! Pics included... BigT8600 Drivetrain Tech 24 03-11-2010 06:47 PM
For Sale: Front pinion seal and Ranger books (CA) whippersnapper02 Engine & Drivetrain Parts 3 02-08-2010 09:08 AM