Doing this tomorrow but I have questions...

1. On the front diff the filler hole is on the left side of the diff right?
2. Did we ever figure out a torque spec for the nut?

I was just going to use a micrometer and an impact to get it to the factory specs like Scott did.

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nice wright up man easy to fallow

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There is not a torque spec on the nut. U just need to put it back the way u took it off unless u wanna drop the axle and replace the crush sleeve with the right preload on the bearings.

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would this be the same process as the front diff seal? pinion seal?

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2001 MAZDA B4000 SE... K&N, throttle body spacer, Torsion Crank, 3" Body lift, 33" KM2s (summer), rhino liner undercarriage, 10" sub in a custom box, amp, deck, outer temp gauge, custom front hooks, rancho 9000's

There is always a certain amount of "run-out" on the diff flange and on the driveshaft flange. They measure this at the factory and install the driveshaft so that the run out is opposite to the run out on the diff. This results in the driveshaft being centered as close as possible. No rotating part is ever absolutely perfect, there is always a bit of out of round to deal with, that is why it is good practice to mark the parts and put them back exactly where they were from the factory.

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89 Ranger 4x4, 2.9 , s/cab -- it's gone
99 Ranger 4x4, 4.0 OHV, s/cab, off road package, 4.10 ltd slip, auto trans, LT215/85R16 ATs, Myer 6.5 plow
2010 Ranger 4x4, 4.0 sohc, 3.73 open, auto, s/cab, P255/70R16 RTs summer, P245/75R16 ATs winter.

Just did this to my 2.3l banger. Thank u guys so much for the posts. I had a hell of a time getting that flange and seal off, but they did come off. Replaced the seal and no leaks as of yet.

To those that are skeptical... JUST DO IT. It's not that bad.

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2001 Ranger 2.3l Standard Cab Short Bed

Glad I found this thread!

Did you replace JUST the seal? Mine is leaking and I am tired of it...lol Plan on doing this when I get back from vacation.

Any pointers you might have other than what is mentioned here? I also have a 2.3l

Thanks,
-Nigel

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2001 Ranger XLT 2.3L Auto: Bunch of misc mods.
Little lift: 4" Spindle Lift w/ 2" shackles and 2" oem blocks.OEM Ranger Sport Wheels: Tires=245x75x16

~NSG~

Nigel-

There are 2 places where your rear diff fluid can leak from. 1) the pinion seal & 2) the rear diff cover gasket.

After dropping driveshaft, I replaced my pinion seal first. then took off the rear diff cover, drained fluid, lightly cleaned, and reinstalled cover with gasket maker ( I don't think they make a replacement gasket for your rear diff.

An unbalanced driveshaft can cause your pinion seal to leak. My truck was in bad shape so after i removed the driveshaft, I took it to a place in town for them to balance it. Hasn't leaked since my last post!

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2001 Ranger 2.3l Standard Cab Short Bed

That's all I replaced. Just take your time.

Yes they do make a new seal for your rear diff cover, its RTV sealant

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They actually make a gasket also

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I replaced the rear seal yesterday. Had more of an issue removing the drive shaft because it was rusted on the flange...lol

AFTER I removed the drive shaft I replaced both the rear seal on the tranmission since mine was all cracked and dripping tranny fluid. And then I replaced the seal. Prior to that though I did put a sleeve kit on the pinion flange... I saw on another forum if there was a line on the piece it's recommended to sleave it. I did and will check tonight to make sure there are no leaks.. (hoping there aren't) I am glad this how to was made!!

I've had that leaking rear diff since I bought the truck over 2 years ago and suspect that it was never changed the entire time the previous owner had it... It never leaked so much as to be a concern but I got tired of seeing a drop here and there in the garage/drive way. I notice it more every time I changed the rear diff fluid as it would always drip more for a couple weeks after I am guessing because there was more fluid in there.

This was the other thread for the sleeve.
http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...d.php?t=102444


Will update once I get home!

-Nigel

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2001 Ranger XLT 2.3L Auto: Bunch of misc mods.
Little lift: 4" Spindle Lift w/ 2" shackles and 2" oem blocks.OEM Ranger Sport Wheels: Tires=245x75x16

~NSG~

Hello everyone! Has anyone ever encountered pinion yoke not wanting to fully seat after replacing pinion seal? I have hammered and used impact tool to put yoke back onto pinion shaft but i get to a point where there is about 1/8" gap between flange and diff housing and i cannot get it to move anymore.. Would pinion bearing (not pressed on bearing but 2nd bearing past crush sleeve) cause this to happen? How can i get around this so i can put back together? Any help would be very much appreciated.