Discuss How To: Adjust Torsion Bars - Page 18

wingman358 · #**256** 09-12-2013, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Logan03CO

Nope sorry - Torsion bar suspension was created by the devil himself.

Period.

EDIT:

Don't forget to have your alignment checked after cranking them that 2". Better to be safe than sorry.....

I can't tell if you're joking about the devil part..

In regard to the alignment, I needed one before cranking the T-bars so I figured I would just crank em then get it aligned (scheduled for tomorrow).

Also 2" may sound like a lot but the ride height was below the lower end of the service manual spec. Now its just barely above the upper spec.

crazynucksfan · #**257** 03-13-2015, 10:01 AM

I have looked around this forum and it seems like there is a big step being overlooked. I just cranked up my 07 B4000. It looks great, still drives nice, and I had an alignment done right after.
But what I don't see mentioned here is a headlight adjustment. My lights are quite a bit higher than they should be now. The bigger problem is I can't seem to figure out where the adjustment screws are. Can someone help me with that?

Logan03CO · #**258** 03-13-2015, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazynucksfan

I can't seem to figure out where the adjustment screws are. Can someone help me with that?

Click: How To: Aim Your Headlights 2001-2009

miclo · #**259** 01-31-2016, 07:58 AM

So can i lower my truck by doing this?

Logan03CO · #**260** 01-31-2016, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miclo

So can i lower my truck by doing this?

We don't know anything about your truck. Please make a signature with your truck information listed (year, model, engine, 2WD/4WD etc.). This information will assist others now & in the future to provide accurate answers to your questions. Click: Create a Signature

That said, assuming you actually have torsion bars - then yes, you can lower it by "un-cranking" your bars.

miclo · #**261** 01-31-2016, 08:57 AM

sorry i think i got it now

----------

I know I'll need a flip kit for the rear but short of doing a coilover conversion I'm not finding how to lower the front.
About how much can i expect to be able to drop?

Logan03CO · #**262** 01-31-2016, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miclo

I'm not finding how to lower the front.

"righty tighty, lefty loosey"

Quote:

Originally Posted by miclo

About how much can i expect to be able to drop?

Not sure...but if I had to guess 1-1/2" maybe.

Let us know what you find out.

phixion az · #**263** 09-03-2016, 04:38 PM

50k mile update on my maxed out t-bar crank:
truck: 2006 Ranger XLT 4x4
wheels: stock alcoa 16"
tires: LT285/65R-16 Cooper Discover AT3 (incredible, long lasting, will buy again)
shocks: (front) Rancho 5000 series (? the ones for slightly lifted rangers, look it up)
miles since t-bar crank: ~50k
results:
1. lower ball joints blew out after 30k. Replaced them with aftermarket ones that need to be re-lubricated every 15k. $120 including labor.
2. Power Steering Pump wore out after 45k. This happened while I was stuck in a rut trying to crank wheel L to R to climb out... $680 including labor.
3. Driver's seat cover and foam is worn from sliding in and out. Getting re-upholstered and re-foamed... $90

Overall: I would do this again. Truck looks good. Total cost of the "free" crank was high but cheap if you consider that it took 50k to really start having problems. With the extended shocks there is no discomfort and the steering doesn't wander like tacomas do. Do it but expect to pay for an alignment immediately and make sure to balance the vehicle (inflate tires properly, find level ground, measure front L and R fender height and adjust torsion bars so they are equal) /end.

RocketRod · #**264** 10-23-2016, 10:11 AM

I realize this is an older thread. While I was under my truck cleaning out 40 pounds of mud from my rocker panels (PO left it there), I had a look. T Bars seem to never have been touched. Shocks are Motorcraft, not the Bilsteins that came originally with it (105K, understandable). In my garage, both fronts measure 33 1/4, both rears are 36 3/4. So I would need 3 1/2 inches to make it level. Too much for the CV's I think. Bilsteins are 4600 series for stock, and 5100 series for "lifted". So I have 2 questions. 1. Where can I find specific factory measurements? 2. Are shock spacers only required for stock shock lengths (or needed at all)? Yes I read though all 18 pages.

shgrier · #**265** 07-31-2021, 04:04 PM

I realize this is an old thread, and the old-style Ranger is sooooo yesterday, but mine is paid off, didn't cost me much, and runs like a champ! (I really want a 2021 Ranger, but can't afford it, so it's really just New-Ranger envy).

Anyway, I just followed the torsion-bar adjustment process, since my rig was sitting a good 2" low in the front. 6 turns on the driver's side and 7-1/2 turns (basically bottomed out) on the passenger side, and I'm no longer going downhill all the time (and no more "Ranger-Lean")!

Rides fine (even seems to ride a bit better over bumps now - weird). I'll get the front end aligned next week, just to keep everything kosher.

The P.O. put big ol' 275x18 tires/rims on it, and the front tires would rub on the inside of the wheel-well plastics during a hard turn - fortunately didn't hurt the tires, but made a nasty sound. Not no more! All is happy in Ranger-land again.

Thanks to those who documented the procedure and to all you moderators for keeping this valuable forum going.

Cheers!