There was a request for replacing the clutch style fan with an electric fan, and since I have had great success with my install of the Taurus fan, I figured I would give a quick How to. Before I start I have to say that there are many options and ways to install an electric fan , this is just my way and after several changes over the years this is my final setup, and seams to work the best for my needs. I know my wiring and install does not look pretty. It can still look good if you take your time and hide wiring to do a clean looking install, I just didn't have the time, nor did I care, as long as it works.

First you'r going to need the right parts before you get started. You will a cooling fan from an early model Taurus (mid 90's), or as i recently found out some Lincoln's have them as well. A search through several salvage yards should get you one for around $30-$60 depending on where you go. here is a picture of an old one that i had to replace.



You will also need a switch with two on positions, and an off position, 2 continuous duty solenoids, like the ones used in winches, ( Do not use the ford starter solenoids, they are not rated for continuous duty and will burn up.) Also need are an assortment of diff. sized electrical connectors and some electrical tape. As for wire I have found that the fan draws a lot of amps, and anything smaller than 10 awg. will melt.
Some metal strapping material and some small bolts are used to mount the fan, and can be found at any home improvement store. That pretty much covers it for parts, you can figure out what tools you need as you go.

Step one: Remove you clutch fan. There is already a how to on this, so I'll skip to step two.

Step two: Drill four small holes in the fan shroud or use the existing holes. There should be a hole at each corner. Cut four pieces of metal strapping about 8-10 inches long, and bolt the strapping to the fan shroud. make sure to use lock nuts or lock washers, to keep them from loosening.

Step three: Place the fan against the radiator and position it as close the center as possible. Make sure that the water pump pulley isn't going to touch the fan motor, and the wiring harness is facing up. Bolt the other ends of the strapping to the radiator using the holes in the top and bottom of the radiator. Make sure the fan is tight and secure against the radiator. Trim off any excess strapping. It should look something like this.




Step four: find a good location under the hood, and mount your solenoids. I mounted mine to the plastic right in front of the hood latch.



Step five: Wiring the solenoids, to the fan. The fan has two speeds, so one solenoid will control the low speed, and one will control the high speed. First you will need to label the wires on the fan harness. There are 3 wires, the ground wire is Black, the High speed power is brown/yellow, and the low speed power is brown/orange. If you wire harness has diff. colors you will have to do some trail and error testing with jumper wires. Just remember that the High speed wire is larger than the others. Run a wire from the High speed power to large terminal on the side of the high speed solenoid. Repeat the same for the low speed.
Next run a wire from the fan ground wire to the battery ground. Now there is one large terminal left on each solenoid, first run a wire to connect these terminals to each other, then run a wire from one of those terminals to the battery positive. The only terminals left on the solenoids now are the 2 small ones on each one. Connect a wire from one of these terminals on one solenoid to one of the terminals on the other, then run a wire from one of those to battery ground. I know this might sound a little confusing so I drew up a wiring diagram.

Edit: you might want to add some inline fuses to you power wires. I never have and haven't had any problems, but fuses are the safe thing to do.


Step six: Find a good spot inside the cab and mount your switch. I mounted mine on the bottom right, below the steering wheel.

I added indicator lights to the switch, one for low and one for high.


You will need to feed power to the switch, I chose to tap into the radio's power supply, that way the fan will not keep running when the key is turned off. Connect your power supply to the correct terminal on the switch. (usually the center terminal.) Then run wires from the other two terminals thru the cab and under the hood. Connect one wire to the remaining terminal on you high seed solenoid. Connect the other to the remaining terminal on your low speed solenoid.

Step seven: Test your work. Switch the fan between high and low speed, and off, to make sure it is working properly. I have found that most of the time the low speed is all you need, but have switched it to high speed just as a precaution, on 100 degree summer days, while sitting in traffic. The high speed will draw a lot of amps, so if you have it on high at night, it will dim your headlights at idle. The low speed should not cause your lights to dim, except for a brief second when you turn it on.

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2003 Ranger FX4 level II. 3" BL, 33x12.50 GT Radial Mud Claws, Custom front and rear bumpers with winch hookups, custom flatbed, with hi-lift, and full size spare mount, 12,000 lb winch mounted under bed, Electric fan, and of course a flowmaster.

So what do you estimate your fuel economy and power increased by getting rid of the fan?

Honestly I couldn't tell you. My fuel economy is so bad, due to the over sized tires, city driving, and my driving style, that I don't really keep track of it. As for power gains, the engine seams like responds better, but thats just opinion. The main reason I did it was to keep water from splashing the engine during water crossings, and because the fan clutches kept locking up and everywhere I went it sounded like an airplane was under my hood.

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2003 Ranger FX4 level II. 3" BL, 33x12.50 GT Radial Mud Claws, Custom front and rear bumpers with winch hookups, custom flatbed, with hi-lift, and full size spare mount, 12,000 lb winch mounted under bed, Electric fan, and of course a flowmaster.

SO thats why my truck sounds like an airplane! Ive never had my truck overheat in these Vegas summers, but everyonce in awhile it wont sound like an airplane, maybe its locking up llike you mentioned. My question is, would a complete radiator shroud with the E-fan make it more beneficial?

The fan itself already has a shroud around it. You could have a full shroud on the radiator, but I can't see where it would help. The Vegas heat is pretty close to our South TX heat, the last few months, temps have been in the high 90's and breaking into the 100's. and the fan has kept it cool. Temps stay in the normal range, even with the air on and sitting in traffic.

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2003 Ranger FX4 level II. 3" BL, 33x12.50 GT Radial Mud Claws, Custom front and rear bumpers with winch hookups, custom flatbed, with hi-lift, and full size spare mount, 12,000 lb winch mounted under bed, Electric fan, and of course a flowmaster.

I installed an extreme duty clutch fan. Always sounds like an airplane taking off. Seems like when it is not, i have more power. To those of you who have done the Efan, do you use it 100% of the time or sometimes run with it off?
Also have you noticed better performance on the truck?

I have read that stock fans work better then efans.

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2010 Fx4 F150
2003 Ford SVT Cobra
2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 Offroad =====SOLD
5.0 V8 with L/S 4.10's and a lot of other crap

hum...

Almost every new car uses an e-fan because they are much more efficient. Adding an e-fan to an older vehicle is a proven way to increase power and fuel economy (if only slightly).

I removed my fan to see how often the engine needed it and was surprised to see that even on an 85 degree day sitting in a parking lot it would not overheat. (I have a 2.3 without AC and 85 is as hot as it gets here)

I wouldn't trust your stock gauge that much

New cars use much more efficient engines and also use engines the size of my foot. Also cars these days have many other ways of cooling the engine then just the radiator, also have radiators 2 times the size of older ones with a lot more air going through them. If you want to use an e-fan go ahead. Risk it going out as you are driving or catching fire blablabla and trusting your factory gauge good luck with that

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2010 Fx4 F150
2003 Ford SVT Cobra
2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 Offroad =====SOLD
5.0 V8 with L/S 4.10's and a lot of other crap

I put an electric fan on my 1978 camaro, I have it set up to where it cuts on when it gets up to temperature. I like it so far, and not hard to hook up. It does keep that old 350 cool, along with the aluminum I added.

I can't tell much difference other than actually hearing the motor than the big "swoosh" of a fan. But so far I am happy with it. Not enough to put one on my ranger, but if the opportunity came up I wouldn't have a problem doing it.

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1996 Ford Ranger XLT Regular Cab 2.3l Auto

3/4 drop, Explorer seats/console/dome/white gauges/hvac controls, Kenwood KSC-SW11 powered sub, Kicker 4x8's, JVC KW-R500 head unit, 17" mustang bullitt wheels, one piece headlights, 06 tails, black bumpers with fog light valance, 93-94 grill, a.r.e. bed cover, air box mod/k&n drop in filter

Where do these morons come from?

"Engines the size of my foot"? I guess a 2.3 is huge compared to the new shoebox motor.

"cars these days have many other ways of cooling the engine then(sic) just the radiator"? Oh wow! they must be using osmosis to cool the engines! oohh...

"Alot more air going through them"? Oh, all the new cars have air in the radiator, not coolant. That's high-tech!

"trusting your factory gauge"?
Yeah, we all know the factory gauge is useless and should be recalled by ford, but they refuse to fix a perfectly working instrument.

ACH, you should be more careful about drinking and posting!

It's a dick thing with him.......He's a big boy bcz he has a V8 lol

Lol..

The girls tell me that "Big truck=little tool!"

maybe little brain too!