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  #16  
Old 03-23-2014, 11:52 PM
dzrt_ranger dzrt_ranger is offline
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Default Re: How To: Taurus E-fan install

So I'm looking into doing this swap. Is the only way to wire it up with a 2 way switch? Is there any way to splice into some wire so that it turns on and switches between high and lo when it reaches a certain temperature?
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  #17  
Old 03-25-2014, 12:28 PM
dzrt_ranger dzrt_ranger is offline
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Default Re: How To: Taurus E-fan install

Anyone?
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  #18  
Old 04-05-2014, 06:03 PM
Wakeup Wakeup is offline
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Default Re: How To: Taurus E-fan install

Quote:
Originally Posted by dzrt_ranger View Post
So I'm looking into doing this swap. Is the only way to wire it up with a 2 way switch? Is there any way to splice into some wire so that it turns on and switches between high and lo when it reaches a certain temperature?
I'm going to take a stab at this:

Assuming our trucks have some sort out overheat idiot light, you could just radio into that to run the solenoid for the high speed on theses fans. I'm sure if we figured out how that light its triggered (relay hooked to a temp sending unit/switch?) then we could rig up another one to come on just above or at the desired operating temp.

Just have to figure out what it takes to make one of the switches, probably find another location to mount the sending unit/switch thing. There are usually plenty of unused plugs on the intake that access the coolant.

Edit: Just did some googling and found this:
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/atm-3246

Its a temp switch, on at 200 off at 170. I'm sure there are different ranges, maybe even one with two leads for different temperatures.


Any thoughts?
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Last edited by Wakeup; 04-05-2014 at 06:17 PM.
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  #19  
Old 07-09-2014, 02:22 PM
clegofan clegofan is offline
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Default Re: How To: Taurus E-fan install

I'm assuming you would need a different length belt for this? What size would you need for a 2.3? Do you even need a different belt? Thanks
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  #20  
Old 07-10-2014, 08:10 AM
Bachelor-house Bachelor-house is offline
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Default Re: How To: Taurus E-fan install

The fan gets removed but the pulley stays, so there's no change to the belt.
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  #21  
Old 07-10-2014, 10:39 AM
clegofan clegofan is offline
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Default Re: How To: Taurus E-fan install

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bachelor-house View Post
The fan gets removed but the pulley stays, so there's no change to the belt.
Ahhh ok, thanks a lot.
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  #22  
Old 07-20-2014, 05:20 PM
2001BLKRangerEdge 2001BLKRangerEdge is offline
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Default Re: How To: Taurus E-fan install

Would you have to use the continous duty solenoids or could you use two separate 40 amp relays???
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  #23  
Old 07-20-2014, 07:15 PM
clegofan clegofan is offline
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Default Re: How To: Taurus E-fan install

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2001BLKRangerEdge View Post
Would you have to use the continous duty solenoids or could you use two separate 40 amp relays???
Continuous duty solenoids would obviously be better, but I'm currently using two 40 amp ford relays I pulled along with the fan at the JY and they've been working fine so far.That being said, for some reason my fan only works on high, with a two way switch hooked up and the three wire fan, etc. I can't figure it out. If anyone wants to chime in, that'd be great.
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  #24  
Old 07-20-2014, 07:30 PM
2001BLKRangerEdge 2001BLKRangerEdge is offline
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Default

Why are they better are they just a heavier duty component??? Or do they work differently??? Any info would be appreciated
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  #25  
Old 07-21-2014, 03:04 PM
clegofan clegofan is offline
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Default Re: How To: Taurus E-fan install

Sry, solenoids are usually rated for higher amps, such as activating the starter, while relays are generally used for lighter applications, such as headlights. So a continuous duty solenoid will be more reliable because they are generally rated for more amps. Now, if you have a solenoid rated for 100 amps, and a relay rated for 100 amps, it's my knowledge that you won't see a difference. As far as internal construction differences between the two, I'm not quite sure. Both use electromagnetism to flip a switch, but any more than that someone else can chime in.
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  #26  
Old 10-18-2019, 07:28 AM
stunner67 stunner67 is offline
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Default Re: How To: Taurus E-fan install

Quote:
Originally Posted by Areyouforcereal? View Post
There was a request for replacing the clutch style fan with an electric fan, and since I have had great success with my install of the Taurus fan, I figured I would give a quick How to. Before I start I have to say that there are many options and ways to install an electric fan , this is just my way and after several changes over the years this is my final setup, and seams to work the best for my needs. I know my wiring and install does not look pretty. It can still look good if you take your time and hide wiring to do a clean looking install, I just didn't have the time, nor did I care, as long as it works.

First you'r going to need the right parts before you get started. You will a cooling fan from an early model Taurus (mid 90's), or as i recently found out some Lincoln's have them as well. A search through several salvage yards should get you one for around $30-$60 depending on where you go. here is a picture of an old one that i had to replace.



You will also need a switch with two on positions, and an off position, 2 continuous duty solenoids, like the ones used in winches, ( Do not use the ford starter solenoids, they are not rated for continuous duty and will burn up.) Also need are an assortment of diff. sized electrical connectors and some electrical tape. As for wire I have found that the fan draws a lot of amps, and anything smaller than 10 awg. will melt.
Some metal strapping material and some small bolts are used to mount the fan, and can be found at any home improvement store. That pretty much covers it for parts, you can figure out what tools you need as you go.

Step one: Remove you clutch fan. There is already a how to on this, so I'll skip to step two.

Step two: Drill four small holes in the fan shroud or use the existing holes. There should be a hole at each corner. Cut four pieces of metal strapping about 8-10 inches long, and bolt the strapping to the fan shroud. make sure to use lock nuts or lock washers, to keep them from loosening.

Step three: Place the fan against the radiator and position it as close the center as possible. Make sure that the water pump pulley isn't going to touch the fan motor, and the wiring harness is facing up. Bolt the other ends of the strapping to the radiator using the holes in the top and bottom of the radiator. Make sure the fan is tight and secure against the radiator. Trim off any excess strapping. It should look something like this.




Step four: find a good location under the hood, and mount your solenoids. I mounted mine to the plastic right in front of the hood latch.



Step five: Wiring the solenoids, to the fan. The fan has two speeds, so one solenoid will control the low speed, and one will control the high speed. First you will need to label the wires on the fan harness. There are 3 wires, the ground wire is Black, the High speed power is brown/yellow, and the low speed power is brown/orange. If you wire harness has diff. colors you will have to do some trail and error testing with jumper wires. Just remember that the High speed wire is larger than the others. Run a wire from the High speed power to large terminal on the side of the high speed solenoid. Repeat the same for the low speed.
Next run a wire from the fan ground wire to the battery ground. Now there is one large terminal left on each solenoid, first run a wire to connect these terminals to each other, then run a wire from one of those terminals to the battery positive. The only terminals left on the solenoids now are the 2 small ones on each one. Connect a wire from one of these terminals on one solenoid to one of the terminals on the other, then run a wire from one of those to battery ground. I know this might sound a little confusing so I drew up a wiring diagram.

Edit: you might want to add some inline fuses to you power wires. I never have and haven't had any problems, but fuses are the safe thing to do.


Step six: Find a good spot inside the cab and mount your switch. I mounted mine on the bottom right, below the steering wheel.

I added indicator lights to the switch, one for low and one for high.


You will need to feed power to the switch, I chose to tap into the radio's power supply, that way the fan will not keep running when the key is turned off. Connect your power supply to the correct terminal on the switch. (usually the center terminal.) Then run wires from the other two terminals thru the cab and under the hood. Connect one wire to the remaining terminal on you high seed solenoid. Connect the other to the remaining terminal on your low speed solenoid.

Step seven: Test your work. Switch the fan between high and low speed, and off, to make sure it is working properly. I have found that most of the time the low speed is all you need, but have switched it to high speed just as a precaution, on 100 degree summer days, while sitting in traffic. The high speed will draw a lot of amps, so if you have it on high at night, it will dim your headlights at idle. The low speed should not cause your lights to dim, except for a brief second when you turn it on.
All the pictures are really blurry. Is there any way to get clear copies of the pictures in the guide?
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