Hey guys,

I made a new video on how to replace pads and rotors. The average cost at the dealer or a mechanic to replace the brakes and rotors for out Rangers/B3000s is $400. If you do this yourself, it will cost you $120! That is a savings of $180 plus you learn how your car works and you use a good set of pads and rotors.

Let me know what you think of the video!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlbFFq60Tec

It has always amazed me that brake places charge so much for something that's as easy to do as replacing the pads/rotors.

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2000 Ford Ranger XLT
Extended Cab
3.0 Flex
4x4
Manual Transmission
Offroad Package

Question, video failed to show how/where the caliper bolts thread onto gide pins? The gide pins are hollow and have threads in the center? There is gide pins on top and bottom?

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2010 2.3 Stick Reg Cab XL - Maxtrac 2 inch coils - Bilstein 5100 front shocks - Bilstein yellow rear shocks

Bump

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2010 2.3 Stick Reg Cab XL - Maxtrac 2 inch coils - Bilstein 5100 front shocks - Bilstein yellow rear shocks

sliders arent hollow they go through the mounting bracket into the caliper and the threads on the end of the sliders thread into the bracket

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2021 F150 5.0 Screw

Past:18 F150 2.7, 16 F150 5.0, 14 F150 5.0, 07 F150 5.4, 03 Ranger 4.0

Master Certified Ford Parts / Warranty Admin

2 questions.

1. Video show loosening top bolt and lifting calipers to access the pads. Do you have to loosen/remove bottom bolt to allow it to lift up?

2. Is it possible to remove one bolt at a time the one on the sliders and along with sliders to clean and regrease them with wheels in place and the ranger on the ground or thats asking for bodily injury to myself to happen? Will anything get messed up or lockup since the ranger is on the ground with the tires installed?

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2010 2.3 Stick Reg Cab XL - Maxtrac 2 inch coils - Bilstein 5100 front shocks - Bilstein yellow rear shocks

Great video. You do a good job with them, very helpful.

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2000 Ford Ranger XLT - 4x4 Off Road - 3.0L - 5speed - 4.10 - 3in BL - 2in Torsion Lift - Lokka Front Locker - RCI Skids - Rancho Shocks - Super Start Extreme AGM Deep Cycle Battery - Cragar Soft 8s - 33x12.50 BFG M/T KM2 w/ Hitch Mounted Spare - Smittybilt XRC8 Winch - On Board Compressor - Hidden Snorkel

If he was my neighbor id trust him to work on my ranger...

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2010 2.3 Stick Reg Cab XL - Maxtrac 2 inch coils - Bilstein 5100 front shocks - Bilstein yellow rear shocks

1. Not necessarily, but it's worth loosening anyway since it's a good idea to regrease the slide pins while you're there.

2. It depends on how much clearance you have between the caliper and the wheel. If you can remove one bolt and lift the caliper enough to pull the slide pin out, then you certainly can. You'll probably have to turn the wheels quite a bit to fit back there, but it's doable. That being said, I'd recommend just removing the wheel. You shouldn't really need to regrease those slide pins very often. Getting them while you're doing the rest of the brakes is more than sufficient.

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2003 Ford Ranger XLT
2.3L I4 Duratec DOHC, 5R44E 5-speed auto, RWD, 7.5" Open w/ 4.10 Ratio, Gibson split-rear catback
Sonic Blue Pearl with dark gray trim

I'm going to do my brakes this weekend. I think I'm going to replace my rotors while I'm at it. Any recommendations?

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Good pads and flat rotors. I've seen plenty of recommendations for cross-drilled & slotted, but I've yet to see the point. Just buy 'em online and use whatever discount codes you can get your hands on.

Alternatively, if you wanna be a dumb-ass like me, you can spend $170 on EBC YellowStuff pads, and then find out a few days later that they're rated "high dust." See, this is why it's a good idea to read these thing in advance. Sure, my brakes are awesome. Forget "stopping on a dime," I can stop before the dime, then get out and pick up the dime. But my gray rims are black within a few days of cleaning them.

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2003 Ford Ranger XLT
2.3L I4 Duratec DOHC, 5R44E 5-speed auto, RWD, 7.5" Open w/ 4.10 Ratio, Gibson split-rear catback
Sonic Blue Pearl with dark gray trim

The guide pins slide into the calipers and you screw in the bolt that holds the caliper to the guide pin. It is pretty simple and shown at the 0:52 second mark in the video (unscrewing them) and at 7:48 (screwing them back in). Does that make sense?

In order for the caliper to open up, you need to remove either the top or bottom bolt that holds the caliper to the guide pins.

You can remove the guide pins with the ranger on the ground, but it is going to be tight back there. Just make sure you have the parking brake on and the wheels chocked off.

Thank you. I actually fix my neighbors cars lol

Just go to the parts store and get a decent set or pads (ceramics) and brake rotors. Dont cheap out with the cheapest pads because they will squeak and wear out fast (ask me how I know that lol).

Yea, drilled and slotted rotors actually decreases your braking power. Less surface area on the rotor. For our trucks, the brakes dont heat up enough for regular driving to get drilled and/or slotted rotors. Maybe if you are towing heavy things around a lot it can be useful.

Or if you're god-awful, terrible driver. If you're the guy who cuts across four lanes of rush-hour traffic to hit an exit 50ft. in front him, or the person who is never just talking on his phone, or you're the woman my aunt saw painting her toenails while speeding down a known busy street… cross-drilled & slotted might actually benefit you.

Actually, I mentioned the whole cross-drilled/slotted thing to the guy at O'Reilly once, and his immediate response was "Do you do a lot of drag racing?" "No--" "Then no, don't bother."

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2003 Ford Ranger XLT
2.3L I4 Duratec DOHC, 5R44E 5-speed auto, RWD, 7.5" Open w/ 4.10 Ratio, Gibson split-rear catback
Sonic Blue Pearl with dark gray trim

haha

So you are saying removing the bolt alone will not allow the sliders to come out, you have to lift up caliper to allow sliders to come out?

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2010 2.3 Stick Reg Cab XL - Maxtrac 2 inch coils - Bilstein 5100 front shocks - Bilstein yellow rear shocks