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09-12-2014, 09:49 AM
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Ford Tough
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 259
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How to Replace Bake Pads and Rotors
Hey guys,
I made a new video on how to replace pads and rotors. The average cost at the dealer or a mechanic to replace the brakes and rotors for out Rangers/B3000s is $400. If you do this yourself, it will cost you $120! That is a savings of $180 plus you learn how your car works and you use a good set of pads and rotors.
Let me know what you think of the video!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlbFFq60Tec
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09-12-2014, 10:03 AM
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Ford Ranger Driver
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,574
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Re: How to Replace Bake Pads and Rotors
It has always amazed me that brake places charge so much for something that's as easy to do as replacing the pads/rotors.
__________________
2000 Ford Ranger XLT
Extended Cab
3.0 Flex
4x4
Manual Transmission
Offroad Package
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09-13-2014, 03:49 PM
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Ford Ranger Driver
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 933
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Question, video failed to show how/where the caliper bolts thread onto gide pins? The gide pins are hollow and have threads in the center? There is gide pins on top and bottom?
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2010 2.3 Stick Reg Cab XL - Maxtrac 2 inch coils - Bilstein 5100 front shocks - Bilstein yellow rear shocks
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09-14-2014, 10:18 AM
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Ford Ranger Driver
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 933
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Bump
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2010 2.3 Stick Reg Cab XL - Maxtrac 2 inch coils - Bilstein 5100 front shocks - Bilstein yellow rear shocks
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09-14-2014, 10:19 AM
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ford dealer parts guy
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 20,938
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Re: How to Replace Bake Pads and Rotors
sliders arent hollow they go through the mounting bracket into the caliper and the threads on the end of the sliders thread into the bracket
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2021 F150 5.0 Screw
Past:18 F150 2.7, 16 F150 5.0, 14 F150 5.0, 07 F150 5.4, 03 Ranger 4.0
Master Certified Ford Parts / Warranty Admin
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09-15-2014, 01:49 PM
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Ford Ranger Driver
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 933
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2 questions.
1. Video show loosening top bolt and lifting calipers to access the pads. Do you have to loosen/remove bottom bolt to allow it to lift up?
2. Is it possible to remove one bolt at a time the one on the sliders and along with sliders to clean and regrease them with wheels in place and the ranger on the ground or thats asking for bodily injury to myself to happen? Will anything get messed up or lockup since the ranger is on the ground with the tires installed?
__________________
2010 2.3 Stick Reg Cab XL - Maxtrac 2 inch coils - Bilstein 5100 front shocks - Bilstein yellow rear shocks
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09-15-2014, 02:18 PM
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Ford Ranger Driver
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,361
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Re: How to Replace Bake Pads and Rotors
Great video. You do a good job with them, very helpful.
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2000 Ford Ranger XLT - 4x4 Off Road - 3.0L - 5speed - 4.10 - 3in BL - 2in Torsion Lift - Lokka Front Locker - RCI Skids - Rancho Shocks - Super Start Extreme AGM Deep Cycle Battery - Cragar Soft 8s - 33x12.50 BFG M/T KM2 w/ Hitch Mounted Spare - Smittybilt XRC8 Winch - On Board Compressor - Hidden Snorkel
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09-15-2014, 02:23 PM
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Ford Ranger Driver
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 933
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If he was my neighbor id trust him to work on my ranger...
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2010 2.3 Stick Reg Cab XL - Maxtrac 2 inch coils - Bilstein 5100 front shocks - Bilstein yellow rear shocks
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09-15-2014, 02:54 PM
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The Projectionator
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Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 861
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Re: How to Replace Bake Pads and Rotors
Quote:
Originally Posted by rangergambler
2 questions.
1. Video show loosening top bolt and lifting calipers to access the pads. Do you have to loosen/remove bottom bolt to allow it to lift up?
2. Is it possible to remove one bolt at a time the one on the sliders and along with sliders to clean and regrease them with wheels in place and the ranger on the ground or thats asking for bodily injury to myself to happen? Will anything get messed up or lockup since the ranger is on the ground with the tires installed?
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1. Not necessarily, but it's worth loosening anyway since it's a good idea to regrease the slide pins while you're there.
2. It depends on how much clearance you have between the caliper and the wheel. If you can remove one bolt and lift the caliper enough to pull the slide pin out, then you certainly can. You'll probably have to turn the wheels quite a bit to fit back there, but it's doable. That being said, I'd recommend just removing the wheel. You shouldn't really need to regrease those slide pins very often. Getting them while you're doing the rest of the brakes is more than sufficient.
__________________
2003 Ford Ranger XLT
2.3L I4 Duratec DOHC, 5R44E 5-speed auto, RWD, 7.5" Open w/ 4.10 Ratio, Gibson split-rear catback
Sonic Blue Pearl with dark gray trim
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09-16-2014, 06:11 AM
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Ford Ranger Driver
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,273
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Re: How to Replace Bake Pads and Rotors
I'm going to do my brakes this weekend. I think I'm going to replace my rotors while I'm at it. Any recommendations?
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09-16-2014, 09:47 AM
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The Projectionator
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Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 861
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Re: How to Replace Bake Pads and Rotors
Good pads and flat rotors. I've seen plenty of recommendations for cross-drilled & slotted, but I've yet to see the point. Just buy 'em online and use whatever discount codes you can get your hands on.
Alternatively, if you wanna be a dumb-ass like me, you can spend $170 on EBC YellowStuff pads, and then find out a few days later that they're rated "high dust." See, this is why it's a good idea to read these thing in advance. Sure, my brakes are awesome. Forget "stopping on a dime," I can stop before the dime, then get out and pick up the dime. But my gray rims are black within a few days of cleaning them.
__________________
2003 Ford Ranger XLT
2.3L I4 Duratec DOHC, 5R44E 5-speed auto, RWD, 7.5" Open w/ 4.10 Ratio, Gibson split-rear catback
Sonic Blue Pearl with dark gray trim
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09-16-2014, 11:05 AM
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Ford Tough
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 259
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Re: How to Replace Bake Pads and Rotors
Quote:
Originally Posted by rangergambler
Question, video failed to show how/where the caliper bolts thread onto gide pins? The gide pins are hollow and have threads in the center? There is gide pins on top and bottom?
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The guide pins slide into the calipers and you screw in the bolt that holds the caliper to the guide pin. It is pretty simple and shown at the 0:52 second mark in the video (unscrewing them) and at 7:48 (screwing them back in). Does that make sense?
Quote:
Originally Posted by rangergambler
2 questions.
1. Video show loosening top bolt and lifting calipers to access the pads. Do you have to loosen/remove bottom bolt to allow it to lift up?
2. Is it possible to remove one bolt at a time the one on the sliders and along with sliders to clean and regrease them with wheels in place and the ranger on the ground or thats asking for bodily injury to myself to happen? Will anything get messed up or lockup since the ranger is on the ground with the tires installed?
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In order for the caliper to open up, you need to remove either the top or bottom bolt that holds the caliper to the guide pins.
You can remove the guide pins with the ranger on the ground, but it is going to be tight back there. Just make sure you have the parking brake on and the wheels chocked off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JJSLAIL22
Great video. You do a good job with them, very helpful.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rangergambler
If he was my neighbor id trust him to work on my ranger...
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Thank you. I actually fix my neighbors cars lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen
I'm going to do my brakes this weekend. I think I'm going to replace my rotors while I'm at it. Any recommendations?
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Just go to the parts store and get a decent set or pads (ceramics) and brake rotors. Dont cheap out with the cheapest pads because they will squeak and wear out fast (ask me how I know that lol).
Quote:
Originally Posted by riscorpian
Good pads and flat rotors. I've seen plenty of recommendations for cross-drilled & slotted, but I've yet to see the point. Just buy 'em online and use whatever discount codes you can get your hands on.
Alternatively, if you wanna be a dumb-ass like me, you can spend $170 on EBC YellowStuff pads, and then find out a few days later that they're rated "high dust." See, this is why it's a good idea to read these thing in advance. Sure, my brakes are awesome. Forget "stopping on a dime," I can stop before the dime, then get out and pick up the dime. But my gray rims are black within a few days of cleaning them.
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Yea, drilled and slotted rotors actually decreases your braking power. Less surface area on the rotor. For our trucks, the brakes dont heat up enough for regular driving to get drilled and/or slotted rotors. Maybe if you are towing heavy things around a lot it can be useful.
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09-16-2014, 11:16 AM
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The Projectionator
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Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 861
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Re: How to Replace Bake Pads and Rotors
Quote:
Originally Posted by dogfish246
Yea, drilled and slotted rotors actually decreases your braking power. Less surface area on the rotor. For our trucks, the brakes dont heat up enough for regular driving to get drilled and/or slotted rotors. Maybe if you are towing heavy things around a lot it can be useful.
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Or if you're god-awful, terrible driver. If you're the guy who cuts across four lanes of rush-hour traffic to hit an exit 50ft. in front him, or the person who is never just talking on his phone, or you're the woman my aunt saw painting her toenails while speeding down a known busy street… cross-drilled & slotted might actually benefit you.
Actually, I mentioned the whole cross-drilled/slotted thing to the guy at O'Reilly once, and his immediate response was "Do you do a lot of drag racing?" "No--" "Then no, don't bother."
__________________
2003 Ford Ranger XLT
2.3L I4 Duratec DOHC, 5R44E 5-speed auto, RWD, 7.5" Open w/ 4.10 Ratio, Gibson split-rear catback
Sonic Blue Pearl with dark gray trim
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09-16-2014, 08:47 PM
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Ford Tough
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 259
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Re: How to Replace Bake Pads and Rotors
Quote:
Originally Posted by riscorpian
or if you're god-awful, terrible driver. If you're the guy who cuts across four lanes of rush-hour traffic to hit an exit 50ft. In front him, or the person who is never just talking on his phone, or you're the woman my aunt saw painting her toenails while speeding down a known busy street… cross-drilled & slotted might actually benefit you.
Actually, i mentioned the whole cross-drilled/slotted thing to the guy at o'reilly once, and his immediate response was "do you do a lot of drag racing?" "no--" "then no, don't bother."
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haha
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09-21-2014, 04:50 AM
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Ford Ranger Driver
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riscorpian
1. Not necessarily, but it's worth loosening anyway since it's a good idea to regrease the slide pins while you're there.
2. It depends on how much clearance you have between the caliper and the wheel. If you can remove one bolt and lift the caliper enough to pull the slide pin out, then you certainly can. You'll probably have to turn the wheels quite a bit to fit back there, but it's doable. That being said, I'd recommend just removing the wheel. You shouldn't really need to regrease those slide pins very often. Getting them while you're doing the rest of the brakes is more than sufficient.
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So you are saying removing the bolt alone will not allow the sliders to come out, you have to lift up caliper to allow sliders to come out?
__________________
2010 2.3 Stick Reg Cab XL - Maxtrac 2 inch coils - Bilstein 5100 front shocks - Bilstein yellow rear shocks
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