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  #1  
Old 01-28-2011, 02:25 PM
STL STL is offline
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Default How To: Replace Wheel Bearings 2wd

This how to will discuss replacing wheel bearing on a 2 wheel drive truck.



Tools needed:
  • A jack
  • Jack stands
  • ratchet
  • 14mm and 15mm sockets
  • flathead screwdriver
  • Hammer
  • Pliers
  • Wheel bearing grease
  • torque wrench
  • Loctite (red is preferred)


1. Jack truck up and place jack stand to support the truck.

2. Remove both driver and passenger wheel.

3. Remove the 2 bolts 14mm that the red arrows are pointing at. Place to the side


4. Remove the 2 bolts 15mm that the red arrows are pointing at. Get some wire and tie it up out of the way.



5. Remove the dust cap. Use the hammer to tap it off. Once you get the lip exposed stick a screw drive to help pop it off. Set to the side



6. Remove the cotter pin. place cotter pin in dust came so you dont lose it



7. Next is a cap that goes over the nut. You can slid it off or turn it and pull the nut off at the same time. Place the nut and cap in the dust cover so you dont lose it.



8. Once the nut is removed. Slid the rotor toward you and the front bearing along with the washer will fall out. Place washer in the dust cap. Discard the bearing



This is what you have left once the rotor is removed. You can now clean all the old grease off.


9. Place the rotor on the ground with the studs facing the ground. You can lay it down on a piece of cardboard.


10. Use a claw hammer to pop the rear seal out.



11. Then remove the bearing and discard.



Now comes the hardest part. When putting in new bearings it is important that you also replace the races. The old bearing have created a wear pattern on the old races so the new Bering will not ride smooth.

You can rent a tool to install the races if you want. You can use a punch or extension to remove them. It is ideal to have help or a vise you can place the rotor in to remove them.

12. Where the red arrow is pointing is where you wanna stick the punch or extension. Remove the back one first. Then repeat these steps to remove the front one.



13. You can hit it pretty hard as you will be discarding them after removed.


14. Remove all the grease and install the new set. Make sure to insert it the correct way.


14.1 Flat side goes in (most will have a manufacture name on the flat side)


14.2 Beveled side out


15. Stick it in as far with your hand. Then use a hammer to lightly tap it into the hole. You may need to use the extension with a towel over the end to tap it all the way in.



15.1 Once both front and back races are in take some grease and smear it all around in the inside.

16. Now you are ready to grease the bearings. There are actual tools you can purchase to aid in greasing them. If you dont buy them use your hands. Get some grease on your hand and force the grease into the bearings. Make sure the grease goes to the front of the bearing from the back side. Make sure to pack it in very well. You want it super greasy and all over the bearing.

17. Insert the bearing on the back side of the rotor and reinstall the seal. Tap it down with a hammer.

18. Put some new grease all over the spindle then Place the rotor back on the spindle and press it all the way back

19. Get you front bearing and place it back into the rotor (make sure it is greased)

20. Place your washer back on.



21. There are torque specs to reinstall this to "set" the bearing.
  1. Torque the nut to 17 to 25 foot pounds while spinning the rotors to seat the bearings.
  2. loosen the nut 1/2 turn.
  3. Torque the nut to 18 to 20 inch pounds while rotating the rotor.
  4. You might have to tighten closer to the top of the range to get spindle hole exposed to put a cotter pin in
.


You can do it without a torque wrench just be sure it is not super tight and it has some play.

22. Reinstall the cotter pin

23. Reinstall the dust cap.

24. Now you need to reinstall the caliper and caliper bracket.
You will need a C clamp to compress the piston. Be sure to remove the brake fluid resistor to help assist in compressing the piston

You can use a big C clamp and a piece of wood or use a caliper compressor tool found in auto stores

Put it on there and then crank it down compressing the piston. Advantage of C clamp and wood you can do both pistons at the same time





25. Once bolt are compressed down slide the caliper back over the pads and tighten the bolts back down. It is advised to use some loctite on the bolts to prevent them from backing out.

Proper torque for the caliper mounting bolt is 22-26 ft-lbs

26. You are all finished now replace the wheel and continue to the other side.
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Last edited by STL; 01-28-2011 at 02:31 PM.
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  #2  
Old 02-14-2011, 12:10 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
Default Re: How To: Replace Wheel Bearings 2wd

Hi, great write up I just had a few questions. You mentioned the brake fluid resistor. Is that a fuse we need to remove, or whereabouts would it be located. Also, if the wheel bearing races are completely stuck, we'd need a special tool to get them out right?. Would it be safe to leave the old races in and just replace the bearing? (I'm guessing not).

A friend of a friend mentioned that the rotors/wheel bearings need to be adjusted with a gauge to make sure there is not more then 5-7 thousands of an inch play in the wheel while it rotates and to make sure the spindle that the wheels go onto is smooth and meets minimum thickness requirements. Do you know the procedure for eliminating excessive play in the rotor? Thanks in Advance
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  #3  
Old 03-03-2011, 04:16 PM
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Posts: 28
Default Re: How To: Replace Wheel Bearings 2wd

Is this tutorial good for the front and rear bearings as well?

Also, im told there are two different sized bearings for my 2003 ranger, how do i know which size i need?

Are both used on one vehicle?

Or do i need to take it apart and look at it to measure?
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  #4  
Old 12-02-2011, 09:19 PM
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Default Re: How To: Replace Wheel Bearings 2wd

I noticed as I was taking my rotors apart that the nut to hold the washer on was bigger than my biggest socket, a 24mm. Not sure how big it really is but I was able to get it off with a vice grip. Heres the thing, how am I supposed to get it torqued back down? Will I need some 30mm socket that ill only ever need for doing brake jobs? I noticed that it wasnt mentioned in the tools needed in this write up, is there another way to do it?
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  #5  
Old 12-03-2011, 03:17 AM
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Default Re: How To: Replace Wheel Bearings 2wd

You could tighten it down with vise grips and then back it off a little.
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  #6  
Old 04-13-2013, 10:22 PM
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Default Re: How To: Replace Wheel Bearings 2wd

Hello STL,

I want to thank you for this tut it was great and helped me every step of the way. I have compiled your tut into a MS Word Document for easy viewing on an Ipad or iphone. I was posting to ask your permission to post the document, in hopes to help others with your great work. Thanks again!
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  #7  
Old 04-15-2013, 03:25 PM
"How hard could it be?"
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,436
Default Re: How To: Replace Wheel Bearings 2wd

Just picked up the bearings today but wanted to make sure I have the right parts before I tear my wheel apart. The inner and outer bearings are two different sizes right? I watched a few videos and read some tutorials but I just kinda assumed there were two of the same bearing. After I bought them and saw the HUGE difference in size I was a bit confused, but I remembered the spindle tapers down to a smaller diameter so it makes sense. Just want to double check. Thanks!
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Black 2001 4x2 XLT Supercab 3.0 "Shadow"

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  #8  
Old 04-17-2013, 10:53 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2013
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Default Re: How To: Replace Wheel Bearings 2wd

Yes they are different sizes the inner is larger and the outer is smaller. In this picture the outer is on the left and the inner is on the right. One thing i would like to add is, when you pound out the races make sure you rotate the areas in which you are pounding. For instance pound the top side of the race a few times, then the right side, then the bottom side, then the left. The races will come out much easier that way, but they are still a pain and a half to get out, so be patient.
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  #9  
Old 04-18-2013, 07:05 PM
"How hard could it be?"
 
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Default Re: How To: Replace Wheel Bearings 2wd

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kayaker2583 View Post
Yes they are different sizes the inner is larger and the outer is smaller. In this picture the outer is on the left and the inner is on the right. One thing i would like to add is, when you pound out the races make sure you rotate the areas in which you are pounding. For instance pound the top side of the race a few times, then the right side, then the bottom side, then the left. The races will come out much easier that way, but they are still a pain and a half to get out, so be patient.
Thanks for the response, but I actually did the passenger side yesterday and the driver side today
I figured if the spindle was tapered they must have been two sizes so I crossed my fingers and pulled it apart.
I was able to get the races out pretty well with a long piece of copper and a 2.5lb sledge, tapping in the manner you described. Getting them back in was a lot easier. I froze the new races while I got everything apart and cleaned, then pounded them in with these punches I made at work:

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Black 2001 4x2 XLT Supercab 3.0 "Shadow"

"BIG 3" upgrade with 250A alternator and Optima Yellowtop; Doetsch 3" Spindles, Skyjacker 4" Lifting Leaf Springs, 15x8 Crager Soft 8's wrapped in 31x10.5 Destination AT's;

Custom center console, OHC, Roof Rack, LED Taillight Bar, Grille, Supercab Storage Box; Lots of LED's and Lights, and loaded with gear. Check out my build thread:http://www.fordrangerforum.com/proje...adow-redo.html
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  #10  
Old 08-20-2013, 01:53 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 589
Default Re: How To: Replace Wheel Bearings 2wd

Hate to bump an old thread but I am looking to replace the front rotors... I'm confused however about the bearings.. Do they come in the rotor itself? I ask because this picture from rock auto is confusing me on what I need to specifically get:

I have the front coil springs not the torsion bars if that matters? I see ALL different sizes of rotors. I've overwhelmed at what to get honestly mainly because of fitment and size. I am running the stock chrome wheels/tires.

Also not sure on the pads as well since there are so many on the sites.

Someone said only to go with: wagner, raybestos, motorcraft...

I also read that I should replace the wheel bearings:
Discuss How To: Replace Wheel Bearings 2wd - Ford Ranger Forum

I see that some are in the rotor itself? How would I know? I have no problem doing the work myself I just don't know what to get honestly and are there different size wheel bearings depending on the rotor? I want to make sure I get everything.
Do I have to worry about anything on the rear drum brakes? Do those need replaced like the front rotors?

Sorry for all the questions., just a little lost at the moment...



I found this: It's by RAYBESTOS Part # 66672R More Info {#1066672, 66672} Professional Grade; 5 Bolt Holes
Front; RWD; 2-Wheel ABS; Front Coil springs

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...153&cc=1372676

That would work for the front since it says specifically coil springs and rwd/ 2-wheel right? This also looks to have the bearing in it already or no?

Compare it to the Wagner which looks completely different yet still shows it would fit?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...630&cc=1372676

WAGNER Part # BD125777 More Info Brake Rotor/Hub Assy.
Front; RWD; 2-Wheel ABS; Front Coil springs; 5 Stud Wheel; 261mm Dia. Rotor (Only 2 Remaining)


Just want to make sure I do it properly and get the correct parts.

Thanks,
-Nigel
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  #11  
Old 08-20-2013, 01:56 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NewShockerGuy View Post
Hate to bump an old thread but I am looking to replace the front rotors... I'm confused however about the bearings.. Do they come in the rotor itself? I ask because this picture from rock auto is confusing me on what I need to specifically get:

I have the front coil springs not the torsion bars if that matters? I see ALL different sizes of rotors. I've overwhelmed at what to get honestly mainly because of fitment and size. I am running the stock chrome wheels/tires.

Also not sure on the pads as well since there are so many on the sites.

Someone said only to go with: wagner, raybestos, motorcraft...

I also read that I should replace the wheel bearings:
Discuss How To: Replace Wheel Bearings 2wd - Ford Ranger Forum

I see that some are in the rotor itself? How would I know? I have no problem doing the work myself I just don't know what to get honestly and are there different size wheel bearings depending on the rotor? I want to make sure I get everything.
Do I have to worry about anything on the rear drum brakes? Do those need replaced like the front rotors?

Sorry for all the questions., just a little lost at the moment...

I found this: It's by RAYBESTOS Part # 66672R More Info {#1066672, 66672} Professional Grade; 5 Bolt Holes
Front; RWD; 2-Wheel ABS; Front Coil springs

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...153&cc=1372676

That would work for the front since it says specifically coil springs and rwd/ 2-wheel right? This also looks to have the bearing in it already or no?

Compare it to the Wagner which looks completely different yet still shows it would fit?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...630&cc=1372676

WAGNER Part # BD125777 More Info Brake Rotor/Hub Assy.
Front; RWD; 2-Wheel ABS; Front Coil springs; 5 Stud Wheel; 261mm Dia. Rotor (Only 2 Remaining)

Just want to make sure I do it properly and get the correct parts.

Thanks,
-Nigel
Bearings are seperate from the rotors. The races may be pressed in already but check before ordering. I would just go to advance auto

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  #12  
Old 08-20-2013, 04:15 PM
2001 XLT
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 589
Default Re: How To: Replace Wheel Bearings 2wd

Appreciate the info!

One last question. So we need both the INNER and OUTER wheel bearings for each front wheel. From the pictures above it looks like one bearing is removed in picure 11, and then another bearing that sits in the race? Am I following this correctly?


IE: I would need this: Which is the outer bearing and race:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...8_461303_4214_

And then I would need this as well: Which is the inner bearing and race:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...5_461303_4213_

And since they come in a two pack I would need to order two sets of each?

Thanks
-Nigel

Last edited by NewShockerGuy; 08-20-2013 at 04:22 PM.
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  #13  
Old 08-20-2013, 07:35 PM
"How hard could it be?"
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,436
Default Re: How To: Replace Wheel Bearings 2wd

Quote:
Originally Posted by NewShockerGuy View Post
Appreciate the info!

One last question. So we need both the INNER and OUTER wheel bearings for each front wheel. From the pictures above it looks like one bearing is removed in picure 11, and then another bearing that sits in the race? Am I following this correctly?


IE: I would need this: Which is the outer bearing and race:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...8_461303_4214_

And then I would need this as well: Which is the inner bearing and race:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...5_461303_4213_

And since they come in a two pack I would need to order two sets of each?

Thanks
-Nigel
YES, you will need a total of 4 bearings/races. One inner and one outer for each side of your truck.
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Dennis Brady
Black 2001 4x2 XLT Supercab 3.0 "Shadow"

"BIG 3" upgrade with 250A alternator and Optima Yellowtop; Doetsch 3" Spindles, Skyjacker 4" Lifting Leaf Springs, 15x8 Crager Soft 8's wrapped in 31x10.5 Destination AT's;

Custom center console, OHC, Roof Rack, LED Taillight Bar, Grille, Supercab Storage Box; Lots of LED's and Lights, and loaded with gear. Check out my build thread:http://www.fordrangerforum.com/proje...adow-redo.html
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  #14  
Old 09-17-2013, 07:10 AM
Learning to use the forums
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 8
Default Re: How To: Replace Wheel Bearings 2wd

Quote:
Originally Posted by TB-9862 View Post
Thanks for the response, but I actually did the passenger side yesterday and the driver side today
I figured if the spindle was tapered they must have been two sizes so I crossed my fingers and pulled it apart.
I was able to get the races out pretty well with a long piece of copper and a 2.5lb sledge, tapping in the manner you described. Getting them back in was a lot easier. I froze the new races while I got everything apart and cleaned, then pounded them in with these punches I made at work:

really nice job on the race presses....good job
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  #15  
Old 09-18-2013, 05:54 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,436
Default Re: How To: Replace Wheel Bearings 2wd

Quote:
Originally Posted by alexrckid View Post
really nice job on the race presses....good job
One of the many perks to working in a machine shop: free scrap material and access to lathes and mills
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Dennis Brady
Black 2001 4x2 XLT Supercab 3.0 "Shadow"

"BIG 3" upgrade with 250A alternator and Optima Yellowtop; Doetsch 3" Spindles, Skyjacker 4" Lifting Leaf Springs, 15x8 Crager Soft 8's wrapped in 31x10.5 Destination AT's;

Custom center console, OHC, Roof Rack, LED Taillight Bar, Grille, Supercab Storage Box; Lots of LED's and Lights, and loaded with gear. Check out my build thread:http://www.fordrangerforum.com/proje...adow-redo.html
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