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  #1  
Old 11-09-2012, 05:14 PM
tbergkamp tbergkamp is offline
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Default Each step keeps leading me to another one, now im stumped.

1985 Ford Ranger 4 cyl 2.0l 4x4 that sat in a pasture for a few months, small rat damage to a few wires. Inspected all the wires, just a couple that got chewed on.

Last week: Replaced fuel pump, fuel pump relay, solenoid, battery, battery cables, and terminals.

Result: Fuel relay was what fixed it. Ran great for about 15 minutes. Then I lost all power to everything.

This week: Bought new ignition switch, chilton for 83-90 rangers.

Result: Ignition switch did nothing. Following wires with my test light and I got to the culprit. Blk/Org wire that goes into a connector, then continues into the cab.(pretty sure this is from fuse link c) The connector is melted. When I beat on it, I can get it to work for a minute before it shuts down the truck. If the truck runs for about a minute or more, the connector gets f-in HOT. What do I do?
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  #2  
Old 11-09-2012, 05:22 PM
94mtx 94mtx is offline
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Default Re: Each step keeps leading me to another one, now im stumped.

Replace the connector, trace where it goes to in the truck, make sure nothing down the line is fried.
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2000 Ford Ranger XL 2.5L 5-speed RWD 3.73 open - 170,000+ miles
Buggman LED 3BL/CARGO, Buggman Stang Dome LED conversion, LED Brake Light conversion, Line-X O.T.R., Air silencer removed
2.3L Headgasket/TIMING/Water Pump replacement guide
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  #3  
Old 11-09-2012, 05:33 PM
tbergkamp tbergkamp is offline
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Default Re: Each step keeps leading me to another one, now im stumped.

I will add a picture in a second.

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If i replaced the connector, it'll still get hot won't it?
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Old 11-09-2012, 05:35 PM
94mtx 94mtx is offline
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Default Re: Each step keeps leading me to another one, now im stumped.

You won't know until you try it... Likely since the connector is burned up it can't handle the current which the wires are trying to put through the connection and it is getting warm as a result. After you replace the connector, you should be set, otherwise you have too large a current draw.
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2000 Ford Ranger XL 2.5L 5-speed RWD 3.73 open - 170,000+ miles
Buggman LED 3BL/CARGO, Buggman Stang Dome LED conversion, LED Brake Light conversion, Line-X O.T.R., Air silencer removed
2.3L Headgasket/TIMING/Water Pump replacement guide
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  #5  
Old 11-09-2012, 05:43 PM
tbergkamp tbergkamp is offline
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Default Re: Each step keeps leading me to another one, now im stumped.

If thats the case, what do I do to fix it?
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  #6  
Old 11-09-2012, 05:45 PM
94mtx 94mtx is offline
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Default Re: Each step keeps leading me to another one, now im stumped.

I told you, replace the connector, then we can worry about that down the line.
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2000 Ford Ranger XL 2.5L 5-speed RWD 3.73 open - 170,000+ miles
Buggman LED 3BL/CARGO, Buggman Stang Dome LED conversion, LED Brake Light conversion, Line-X O.T.R., Air silencer removed
2.3L Headgasket/TIMING/Water Pump replacement guide
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  #7  
Old 11-09-2012, 05:53 PM
tbergkamp tbergkamp is offline
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Default Re: Each step keeps leading me to another one, now im stumped.

Alright, I'll buy a new connector tomorrow, replace it, and update you. Thanks for your help.

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Can i use any old connector? Or does it have to be specific?
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  #8  
Old 11-09-2012, 05:56 PM
94mtx 94mtx is offline
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Default Re: Each step keeps leading me to another one, now im stumped.

You might have to get it from a junkyard truck unless any of the stores actually have the specific connector you are talking about, which I doubt.


If you were to take it to a shop they would follow the same guide I am giving you by the way; Junkyard connector, if it still gets hot and burns up, then diagnose past that... Simple to be honest.


Make sure you solder all of your wires and either (A) wrap them with electrical tape really well individually and then wrap them all in tape together, or (B) use heat-shrink tubing each wire and then electrical tape the whole bundle together.

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If it's a simple (one or two wire connector,) you could even simply bypass having a connector all-together, remove the connector, and solder the respective wires on each side of the connector together.

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You could technically even do this if there were a lot of wires on the connector, it will just be more time consuming.
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2000 Ford Ranger XL 2.5L 5-speed RWD 3.73 open - 170,000+ miles
Buggman LED 3BL/CARGO, Buggman Stang Dome LED conversion, LED Brake Light conversion, Line-X O.T.R., Air silencer removed
2.3L Headgasket/TIMING/Water Pump replacement guide
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Old 11-09-2012, 05:58 PM
tbergkamp tbergkamp is offline
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Default Re: Each step keeps leading me to another one, now im stumped.

Its one wire.

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What exactly is the point of a connector anyways?
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  #10  
Old 11-09-2012, 05:59 PM
94mtx 94mtx is offline
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Default Re: Each step keeps leading me to another one, now im stumped.

Then bypass the connector and solder the wire together. (JUST CUT OUT the old connector, splice the wire from each side of the connector, and solder it together.)


Make sure you wrap it in tape please.

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It's likely where one wiring harness begins and the other one ends... Just how it's made... There's a dash wiring harness and an engine wiring harness that connect together at a bunch of.. WAIT FOR IT... Connectors.
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2000 Ford Ranger XL 2.5L 5-speed RWD 3.73 open - 170,000+ miles
Buggman LED 3BL/CARGO, Buggman Stang Dome LED conversion, LED Brake Light conversion, Line-X O.T.R., Air silencer removed
2.3L Headgasket/TIMING/Water Pump replacement guide
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  #11  
Old 11-09-2012, 06:02 PM
tbergkamp tbergkamp is offline
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Default Re: Each step keeps leading me to another one, now im stumped.

If the connector is getting hot, im assuming the wire is gonna get hot, unless it's within the connector itself, which I doubt..I just don't wanna fry anything important, or set the truck on fire.

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What if I ran both wires into a fused wire?
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  #12  
Old 11-09-2012, 06:05 PM
94mtx 94mtx is offline
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Default Re: Each step keeps leading me to another one, now im stumped.

You are more likely to set the truck on fire if that connector is already melted and getting hot than if you REMOVE the connector and splice the wires together.. From what you said, the connector is your problem (since it is the part getting hot from too much current) and your wires are fine (since they aren't the part that is melted...)


You are thinking too much in the wrong direction... Your melted part is getting hot, so you remove that part, and it doesn't get hot anymore... Problem solved...

If you leave it, and you SOMEHOW get the truck running, if it gets too hot it will start a fire and you will have effectively shot yourself in the foot...

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Those wires already have fused protection... You are thinking too much... Remove the connector and splice the wires together, solder the spliced wires, wrap them in tape, and try running the truck...
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2000 Ford Ranger XL 2.5L 5-speed RWD 3.73 open - 170,000+ miles
Buggman LED 3BL/CARGO, Buggman Stang Dome LED conversion, LED Brake Light conversion, Line-X O.T.R., Air silencer removed
2.3L Headgasket/TIMING/Water Pump replacement guide
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  #13  
Old 11-09-2012, 06:05 PM
tbergkamp tbergkamp is offline
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Default Re: Each step keeps leading me to another one, now im stumped.

You, my friend, are a very bright individual. +1 for the FRF A-Team lol.
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  #14  
Old 11-09-2012, 10:03 PM
tbergkamp tbergkamp is offline
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Default Re: Each step keeps leading me to another one, now im stumped.

Took the connector out, spliced em together. Let it run for about 5 minutes, no heat at all. Still hooked up a fused wire for the fuck of it, cant ever be too safe.
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  #15  
Old 11-09-2012, 10:18 PM
94mtx 94mtx is offline
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Default Re: Each step keeps leading me to another one, now im stumped.

Yeah, but considering you don't know what amperage is supposed to be going through that line, it is likely you have way too large of a fuse hooked up.. I don't know what wire you had to splice, however, I doubt you will EVER blow that fuse (the wire will melt before the fuse blows if the fuse is too high of a rating.)


Runs well now, right?
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2000 Ford Ranger XL 2.5L 5-speed RWD 3.73 open - 170,000+ miles
Buggman LED 3BL/CARGO, Buggman Stang Dome LED conversion, LED Brake Light conversion, Line-X O.T.R., Air silencer removed
2.3L Headgasket/TIMING/Water Pump replacement guide
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