Okay, here is my issue.
I came across the problem last night after I drove it home.
I am at work now and will try a few things I have in mind tonight.

Okay, basically, the truck is dead! ZERO VOLTS!
The battery pulls 12+v, the solenoid also has 12v on the top side.
The bottom has nothing.
I am going to check the B+ terminal on the Alt later.

The ignition switch is super sensitive!
You almost have to push the key towards the dash to keep it running.
If it comes back at all, shuts right off.

So, I was removing the old radio and installing a new radio
(which I have done 456168714786 times)
and I had the doors open and the dome light was on.
Then it went off, I noticed I left the key in the ACC position.
So I turned they key back to the off position.
And the dome light came back on for a second,
then it went out and stayed out.

So, I check all the fuses, expecting one to be bad.
However, they are all good.
No headlights, nothing has power.
My multimeter read 0.02v.
But the battery and solenoid reads 12+v.

I crossed the solenoid together, with the key was in the off position.
The engine cranked over but never started.
Tried it again with the key in the ACC posistion,
turned over and still didn't start.
Probably because the fuel injection didn't know to add fuel,
due to the lack of voltage.

I want to replace the ignition switch either way and I think it is faulty.
But why the hell are all the lights off?
And everything has zero power except the battery itself?
I mean, the angle of the key shouldn't determine if the lights power on or not.

I also read a little about fusible links.
I need more info on them.

Tonight I am going to go ahead and jump it just to see.
But I don't think it is that simple.
the battery reads 12v and should at least power the lights a little,
even if they are really dim, because it turned the engine over.
I don't know, It has my brain confused.

Thanks for the help!

SwaN

No reply, really?
Okay, no worries.

I got home to jump it, and the lights were ON!!!
WEIRD!!! Dome light and the glove box light.
Tried to start it, acted like it was low on battery charge.
I turn on the headlights for a second and they got dim and then went off.
Checked batter Voltage, 10 to 11, then 12 in seconds.
The battery is still good. I thin kit is in the Solenoid.

I dont know much about them, yet.
I am gonna read on them today.

SwaN

You definately have something going on . I would start with the Ignition switch and resolve that issue first . As to why the lites come on when the key is not on could be a short or a bad ground . A sensitive ignition switch could mean it is worn out to begin with . I would be curious to see what happens after you replace the switch .

__________________
Merlin215

2010 Ford Ranger 4 wheel drive
Black
XLT Power Group package

It almost sounds like you have a short somewhere in the starting process

I know when my starter had a small short which would kill my battery wound up replacing everything battery alternator and starter till I find the problem

Sent from my Samsung galaxy tablet

__________________

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The dome light and head lights should come on regardless if they key is on or off, that is why I think it has something to do with the solenoid providing proper Voltage to the various components such as the fuse box, lol.

It may take both the Ignition switch and the solenoid, but I am gonna get this damn thing fixed.

I had thought you meant while playing with the ignition key they came on . My misunderstanding ....

Also check the switch wires for proper voltage as a break or a short in them will cause the truck not to start . As for the dome lite off and on , again I think there is a short somewhere as well . They should NOT come on or off if you turn the key ( at least Mine stay on if the switch is on ) to ign on / acc etc .

__________________
Merlin215

2010 Ford Ranger 4 wheel drive
Black
XLT Power Group package

two things come to mind the main fuse located next to the fusebox is blown

or you do not have a proper ground to from the battery to the truck

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You left your lights on, and got a reading of 11 something on the battery. And you think the battery is fine? No, your battery is dead. So before you can fix anything else that may or may not be wrong, you need to jump start it.

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2003 Edge 4.0 4wd

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couple things come to mind. check to make sure the Neg battery post clamp is making good connection. clean the posts tighten the studs down. then start with the most simple of diagnosis. these 2 web sites will shed some light on what you are needing to try. DO NOT go out and buy stuff thinking that by tossing money at things that are not broken will fix it! learn to problem solve. cutting corners cost you money.

cheers

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/index...articles_1.php

and the mother of all

http://www.aa1car.com/index_alphabetical.htm


and like what fireranger said charge your battery!!

Everything has 0 Volts, including the fuse box.

I will check the main fuse when I get home.
The ground is good on the battery.

Thanks for the input, but please read all of my posts.
Jump starting it does absolutely nothing at all.
Yes, the battery is fine.

Thanks for the info.
I will check these sites out.
I have tried to jump start it, nothing.
And the neg terminal is nice and tight.
It was running fine, and then it went dead,
when I removed was installing the radio.

Then when I got home last night, the damn lights were on.
I tried to start it, sounded like the battery was dead.
Jumped it, back to 0 V!

It has to be the solenoid.

__________________
97 Integra RS, 88 Ranger XLT, 94 Grand Marquis

"Drive it like you stole it!"
"The deciding factor lies beneath the hood!"
"Boost is kinda like sex, first you spool up, then you blow off!"

I just acquired a small detail.
Before I got it, someone was giving another car a jump with this truck.
And they put the ground on the hot cable for a quick second.
But they said the truck ran fine after that.
And I had no troubles starting it.

I don't see how removing the dash, removing the radio,
and connecting a new one could have caused this.

I'll toss my Integra battery in it tonight and see if that helps.
However, I am not too confident in this.
But it will eliminate one option.

----------

Maybe the Volts are good but the Amps are too low in the battery.
Hmmmmm, batteries can do crazy things.
This will be the first thing I try tonight.
But, when I jump it, nothing.
Stone cold dead!

__________________
97 Integra RS, 88 Ranger XLT, 94 Grand Marquis

"Drive it like you stole it!"
"The deciding factor lies beneath the hood!"
"Boost is kinda like sex, first you spool up, then you blow off!"

"It has to be the solenoid. "

really? It might be, did you at least short it with a couple screwdrivers to see if it starts the motor? and I am guessing it is the relay you are talking about?

how to short/bypass is easy. turn on the ignition with key, hold 1 screw driver on the pos post of relay and another on the post that goes down to the starter. Hold the 2 screwdrivers together and this should start the truck/engine. (make sure you have the emergency brake on and out of gear if a standard) if it starts then go buy a new one. for i will guess it is shot.

----------

"Maybe the Volts are good but the Amps are too low in the battery.
Hmmmmm, batteries can do crazy things. " <<< so can alternators.

78_Pinto,

I crossed the solenoid together, with the key was in the off position.
The engine cranked over but never started.
Tried it again with the key in the ACC posistion,
turned over and still didn't start.
Probably because the fuel injection didn't know to add fuel,
due to the lack of voltage.

That was the first night. Last night I tried it again,
never turned the engine over, just clicked and sparked a little.
The more I read this, the more I think the battery may be bad.

But the bastard reads 12+ volts when I test it with the multimeter.
I do not understand that.
And it still doesnt start with a solid jump from a different car.

----------

More info.

The ignition switch already has wear and tear, I will replace it this weekend.
The lock cylinder also has issues, you do NOT need the key to start it.
Tumblers must be wore the hell out.

But the dome light should still be on,
regardless of the key, lock cylinder, or ignition switch.

And, the fusebox should have power.

__________________
97 Integra RS, 88 Ranger XLT, 94 Grand Marquis

"Drive it like you stole it!"
"The deciding factor lies beneath the hood!"
"Boost is kinda like sex, first you spool up, then you blow off!"

That was the first night. Last night I tried it again,
never turned the engine over, just clicked and sparked a little.
The more I read this, the more I think the battery may be bad.


Sparked a little ? Means you have a short circuit somewhere ..... Going to hold this comment as I am not sure where the spark is or maybe some other details ....

But the bastard reads 12+ volts when I test it with the multimeter.
I do not understand that.
And it still doesnt start with a solid jump from a different car.


Battery voltage should be 13.2 or higher . Battery voltage low and the truck slowly turns and clicks means the battery is the issue ....


From another post :
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/alter...ic_tests_1.php

__________________
Merlin215

2010 Ford Ranger 4 wheel drive
Black
XLT Power Group package

"I crossed the solenoid together, with the key was in the off position.
The engine cranked over but never started.
Tried it again with the key in the ACC posistion,
turned over and still didn't start.
Probably because the fuel injection didn't know to add fuel,
due to the lack of voltage. "

and did you try it with the key on run to see if the truck will start? sounds like if the truck is turning over the battery might just have enough juice.

----------

does the fuel pump start to humm when you turn the key all the way to the run position?

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check that sensor BEFORE replacing
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2002/cm70248.htm