I'm very confused please help me fix my 1994 ford ranger 4.0

[FordDawg]

I have a 1994 Ford Ranger XL 4.0 V6 Extended Cab 4X4 and here recently I’ve noticed that when I put my hand at the tailpipe the exhaust fumes coming out are hot but not hot enough to burn my hand after a second or two. I also have to put my hand almost directly on the tailpipe to even feel fumes coming out of the tailpipe. I have also noticed that the exhaust fumes feel like they sputter out of the tailpipe instead of flow smoothly however the engine does not sound like it is skipping at all. Another thing that I’ve noticed is that whenever I initially start to accelerate right after a stop sign or a red light the truck seems to not have any power and then a half second later it suddenly regains all of its power. Lastly, whenever the truck is idling with the heat and defroster off, if I watch the tachometer I can see the tachometer needle very slightly rise and stay there for a few seconds then move back to its original position. I have already changed the MAF sensor, cleaned the IACV and throttle body, changed the spark plugs and wires, checked all vacuum lines, and tested the throttle position sensor and ignition coil pack. There were no vacuum leaks and the throttle position sensor and ignition coil pack passed the tests that I ran. I also found out from Ford that my truck is not equipped with an EGR valve or an EGR position sensor. The weirdest thing that has happened was today I drove my truck to work and after driving it about 5 or 10 minutes the CEL came on for the first time since I changed the spark plugs a couple weeks ago. Then after staying on about 10 minutes the CEL went back off and strangely enough the truck seemed to run perfect and even accelerated great during the initial acceleration after stop signs and red lights. Then a couple hours later I decided to drive the truck again and when I started going down the road again it started doing the strange red light stop sign no power thing except this time the check engine light never came on. I am extremely confused. Can anyone tell me some tests that I can run myself to pinpoint the problem or what the problem could be because my wife and I are on a very strict budget right now and cannot afford to just keep changing parts or pay the $60 Diagnostic Test Fee the mechanic wants to charge to figure out the problem.

[Rangerman49]

Originally Posted by FordDawg

I have a 1994 Ford Ranger XL 4.0 V6 Extended Cab 4X4 and here recently I’ve noticed that when I put my hand at the tailpipe the exhaust fumes coming out are hot but not hot enough to burn my hand after a second or two. I also have to put my hand almost directly on the tailpipe to even feel fumes coming out of the tailpipe. I have also noticed that the exhaust fumes feel like they sputter out of the tailpipe instead of flow smoothly however the engine does not sound like it is skipping at all. Another thing that I’ve noticed is that whenever I initially start to accelerate right after a stop sign or a red light the truck seems to not have any power and then a half second later it suddenly regains all of its power. Lastly, whenever the truck is idling with the heat and defroster off, if I watch the tachometer I can see the tachometer needle very slightly rise and stay there for a few seconds then move back to its original position. I have already changed the MAF sensor, cleaned the IACV and throttle body, changed the spark plugs and wires, checked all vacuum lines, and tested the throttle position sensor and ignition coil pack. There were no vacuum leaks and the throttle position sensor and ignition coil pack passed the tests that I ran. I also found out from Ford that my truck is not equipped with an EGR valve or an EGR position sensor. The weirdest thing that has happened was today I drove my truck to work and after driving it about 5 or 10 minutes the CEL came on for the first time since I changed the spark plugs a couple weeks ago. Then after staying on about 10 minutes the CEL went back off and strangely enough the truck seemed to run perfect and even accelerated great during the initial acceleration after stop signs and red lights. Then a couple hours later I decided to drive the truck again and when I started going down the road again it started doing the strange red light stop sign no power thing except this time the check engine light never came on. I am extremely confused. Can anyone tell me some tests that I can run myself to pinpoint the problem or what the problem could be because my wife and I are on a very strict budget right now and cannot afford to just keep changing parts or pay the $60 Diagnostic Test Fee the mechanic wants to charge to figure out the problem.

I'm going to take a wild guess here and say it's a blocked catalytic converter. If it has one ,some states did not require trucks to have them back in the early 90's . they typically last around 7 years and but with good maintenance and tuneups I've seen them last much longer. What you described at the first part of your post seems to point to the Cat. If yours is original your OVER due for a new one.

[swopey]

Sometimes you can tap on the cat and if it's bad you can hear the pieces rattling inside.

[FordDawg]

thanks Rangerman49 and swopey for ya'lls quick responses and it's kind of relieving in a way that ya'll mention the cat being bad because I've also been wondering if that's the problem for awhile now but my stepdad that used to be an ASE certified Master Technician told me to drill holes in the Cat and then see if that affects the power at all and it didn't so I plugged the holes back up with 3/8 inch bolts and when I took the truck to the mechanic yesterday he said that if my truck was older than 1994 most of the time drilling holes in the cat would help clear the blockage by blowing out whatever was causing the blockage through the tailpipe but because its a 1994 drilling the holes didn't do anything is this true? and if what the mechanic said was true can I still tap on it to test if it is bad even though there are now bolts in the holes I drilled and are there any other tests that I can do to test the catalytic converter because a new one is about $250 and I DEFINITLY cannot afford that right now so what are some other ways to fix the cat if it really is bad as well?

[Rangerman49]

Originally Posted by FordDawg

thanks Rangerman49 and swopey for ya'lls quick responses and it's kind of relieving in a way that ya'll mention the cat being bad because I've also been wondering if that's the problem for awhile now but my stepdad that used to be an ASE certified Master Technician told me to drill holes in the Cat and then see if that affects the power at all and it didn't so I plugged the holes back up with 3/8 inch bolts and when I took the truck to the mechanic yesterday he said that if my truck was older than 1994 most of the time drilling holes in the cat would help clear the blockage by blowing out whatever was causing the blockage through the tailpipe but because its a 1994 drilling the holes didn't do anything is this true? and if what the mechanic said was true can I still tap on it to test if it is bad even though there are now bolts in the holes I drilled and are there any other tests that I can do to test the catalytic converter because a new one is about $250 and I DEFINITLY cannot afford that right now so what are some other ways to fix the cat if it really is bad as well?

Man, thats BS!! $250 for a CAT. Shouldn't cost more than $100 to $150 installed !!! Go to a Muffler shop not to a mechanic. Even here in Calif. it wouldn't cost that much, Is the CAT. welded in or does it two bolt flanges on both ends? If it has flanges you could install it yourself. Maybe 85 bucks for the CAT. If the CAT. is really blocked badly drilling two 3/8 holes wouldn't do much unless they were at the very front of the CAT and maybe not even then!

[FordDawg]

It is BS to have to pay that much Rangerman but what's even worse is that at an auto parts store like Autozone where I work a Direct Fit Cat really is $250 and that's with my employee discount and no install labor at all. $250 for just the part!!! and it does have the flanges but its a double cat instead of a single cat and I'm pretty sure thats why mine is so expensive. You can even see for yourself just go to autozone.com and look up a 1994 Ford Ranger 4x4 4.0 V6 then put 30134 for Zip Code and that will give you our prices here in GA.

[Rangerman49]

Wow, that Blows !! Here's an idea that may help you out till you can install a new CAT. Remove the CAT. and see if you can break up some of the crap inside and empty it out which will make it nothing more than a straight pipe.

[FordDawg]

Ok Rangerman I might just try that but before I do and to make sure that I don't make a mistake the county I live in requires an emissions test before the new tag is issued is there any way I can break up the crap inside and empty it out and it still pass the "sniffer" test or is it a thing of once I do that it ain't passing emissions until I get a new Cat? I'm wondering this because in order to get a tag in another county that does not require emissions testing I would have to change insurance policies because I'm on a family member's insurance and Geico does not allow someone on a person's policy if they live or get their tag in a county other than the one that is registered on the policyholder's insurance policy. And also what is the best and easiest way to break up the crap inside and empty it out after I get the Cat off?

[Rangerman49]

Originally Posted by FordDawg

Ok Rangerman I might just try that but before I do and to make sure that I don't make a mistake the county I live in requires an emissions test before the new tag is issued is there any way I can break up the crap inside and empty it out and it still pass the "sniffer" test or is it a thing of once I do that it ain't passing emissions until I get a new Cat? I'm wondering this because in order to get a tag in another county that does not require emissions testing I would have to change insurance policies because I'm on a family member's insurance and Geico does not allow someone on a person's policy if they live or get their tag in a county other than the one that is registered on the policyholder's insurance policy. And also what is the best and easiest way to break up the crap inside and empty it out after I get the Cat off?

Ok, if your CAT. is blocked your not going to pass emissions anyway because it is the only thing on your truck that lowers the NOx part of the test. Most vehicles have an EGR as well to help but you said that your truck doesn't have one. So it's just the CAT and air pump that reduce NOx levels. To double check that it is your CAT. that's blocked is to disconnect the CAT from the rest of the exhaust (muffler side) and see if you still have weak flow, if you do then disconnect the engine side and what you get. If it opens up then you know that the CATs blocked up. Mufflers don't usually get blocked but it can happen, so if you get more flow when you disconnect from the muffler end, then your muffler is the culprit . If your Tags are due soon just leave everything alone and see what happens. Most of the time when a CAT has gone bad and you hit it with a rubber hammer you will here stuff rattling loose inside and when you take it off the stuff falls out the ends,

[FordDawg]

I figured that if my Cat was bad I wouldn't pass emissions but luckily for me my tags ain't due until august so I have a little time to play around and three more questions for you Rangerman when i talked to a muffler shop today they said they can cut the front cat off and make it a single cat system since there was no real reason that Ford built it with two but another muffler shop said that if they did that the vehicle still wouldn't pass emissions so why would the first muffler shop say they could turn it into a single cat system if it still wouldn't pass emissions? Secondly since my truck wont pass emissions any way now would it be a good idea to take a long metal rod and shove it in the cats to clean them out or what other methods are easy to do and lastly how in sam creation do I get to that top bolt on the flange closest to the engine, because the engine side flange is a three bolt triangle but the muffler side flange is a two bolt flange

[Rangerman49]

Left a PM with PH# remember three hour time difference to the left coast!!

[HGI]

Don't replace your cat!!!!!!

Waste of money, run your truck with out it... you'll get a few more HP and a little better MPG.

[FordDawg]

I Got the PM Rangerman thanks and it'll probably be a few days til I'm off again but I'll definitly give you a call and I'll make sure I remember the three hour difference