how much play is acceptable in the wheel bearing assemblies with these trucks? decription in sig. anyway, it has a hum to it at 50+ when the wheels are straight, but turning it goes away. i stopped at a gass station and rocked the top of the tire and it did move probably a millimeter. im not sure what the spec is on these if someone knows that'd be awesome.

__________________
I don't jerry-rig, I make custom parts from alternative materials.

'93 Ranger Single Cab, Shortbed, 2.3, 5-spd.

No play is acceptable. You might be lucky and only need to replace the bearings and not the races as well.

I would replace both sides (inner and outre) since bearings are relatively cheap and as a general rule, if one side is bad the other isn't far behind.

You will need new seals for the back side of the hub too.

If the races are messed up, they can be knocked out with a hammer and a punch. The best way to install the new races is to use a press to get a nice, even pressure.

----------

Torque procedure for the spindle nut is as follows:

Step 1.......torque to 17 to 25 foot pounds
Step 2.......loosen 1/2 a turn
Step 3.......torque to 18 to inch pounds

You or someone else should be rotating the rotor while tightening the nut for a proper seat. Putting the wheel on after the nut is on to rotate the rotor will make this easier.

Make sure the bearings are well packed with bearing grease. I like to use waterproof boat trailer wheel bearing grease but regular wheel bearing grease is fine. You can pack it in by hand pushing it in to all the openings or get a grease packing tool and use a grease gun to do a better, less messy job.

__________________
Sgtsandman's Work in Progress
2011 Ranger XLT, 4X4, 4 door Super Cab. 4.0L, 5 Speed M50D-R1HD, 3.73:1, 8.8" open differential, Jason Pace cap
2019 Ford Ranger STX FX4, Super Crew, 2.3L Ecoboost, 10 speed automatic, 3.73:1 with rear locker, Leer 100XR cap

It is good practice and since most bearings come with the races to replace them now.

__________________