Replaced Blend Door Actuator Today - Page 2

austinranger85 · #16 01-21-2012, 07:50 AM

Why can't I see my pictures on here anymore?

07RangerDanger · #17 06-27-2012, 06:55 AM

Your posts were most helpful and I replaced a blend door actuator today on my '07 Ranger. Problem solved, but when the actuator moves the door to the "heat" side, it seems to try and keep "running" like it isn't completely stopping...just makes a quirky little intermident noise...almost a "beep". The blendor door moves freely and the actuator stops correctly when activated outside the box. I can back the blend selector switch of a tad bit and the noise stops. It kinda seems like the door is closeing against the foam seal and prevents a complete sense of stopping. Not a big deal, but I don't want to keep eating up actuators if I can help it. Anyone else experience this kind of activity?

jesscott98 · #18 07-04-2012, 10:13 AM

Replaced my lend Door Actuator today and this video was beyond helpful. As for the third screw in the back........it wouldn't be there if it was needed, so take your time and do like the video shows.

One other tip though, I used a 1/4 drive breaker bar to get the screw in the back started again, it has a lower profile than the ratchet and once it was started then the ratchet worked fine.

austinranger85 · #19 07-05-2012, 05:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 07RangerDanger

Your posts were most helpful and I replaced a blend door actuator today on my '07 Ranger. Problem solved, but when the actuator moves the door to the "heat" side, it seems to try and keep "running" like it isn't completely stopping...just makes a quirky little intermident noise...almost a "beep". The blendor door moves freely and the actuator stops correctly when activated outside the box. I can back the blend selector switch of a tad bit and the noise stops. It kinda seems like the door is closeing against the foam seal and prevents a complete sense of stopping. Not a big deal, but I don't want to keep eating up actuators if I can help it. Anyone else experience this kind of activity?

Sorry it took me so long to reply but I have run into the same exact issue as you have. I noticed it while driving maybe a day or so after I installed the new actuator. I would hear a whining noise for just a few seconds every few minutes. After I figured out it was the new actuator I just backed off the temperature dial to where it is horizontal from the heat side. It doesn't make the noise if I have it all the way cold, only when it is hot. For the moment I chalk it up to my truck just having a little bit more "character" now, as I was dealing with not having a working actuator for over a year.

If anyone has had that issue and fixed it please let us know how you did it. Until then though, just set it back a little. Honestly though I think it may be a programming issue or something with Ford itself, and it makes me wonder if that's not what made it break in the first place.

lostforawhile · #20 03-09-2014, 01:41 AM

I spent an hour trying to get one of these out at the yard today, with no luck, I wish I had known the back screw wasn't needed, I think I'll weld an 8mm socket on a thin piece of steel strip, once it is loose enough I think I can back it the rest of the way out by hand. I also noticed that the vacuum actuator attached under there doesn't work, so I grabbed one of those, I hope it's not a control issue. I'll hook it up to a gauge tomorrow and cycle through the settings, on at least one I should have vacuum there

norman1941 · #21 08-22-2014, 12:13 PM

My blend door stays in the position whereby all I get is heat except for max air.
Since the heater control valve is vacuum to close, what would be wrong with using a rubber band or an electric tie to keep it in the closed position as a temporary fix
during warm weather? Does anyone know if this would harm the system an any way?
Thanks.

Stickbuilder · #22 09-01-2014, 04:41 AM

I did the nail fix on mine yesterday. Took about 15 minutes. Works great. If it fails again , I'll do the Heater Treater fix.

mattsfx4 · #23 09-01-2014, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry19

Thanks to everyone for their help. I bought an actuator one on line for about 30 dollars and was able to replace the old one. I'm sure that all of you, like me, have cuts about an inch below the knuckle of your index fingers that you acquired getting that back screw out. While getting that back screw out, I lost an 8 mm socket. Does anyone have any ideas as to how to get it out or is it now part of my truck? I tried attaching a magnet to a wire, that I passed down the opening, but didn't catch anything. I also took off the blower from under the hood, but that didn't do anything either.

I did the same thing, it didn't start rattling till about 2 years after, now I can't get it out

bali · #24 10-28-2014, 05:40 PM

First Post (Rookie poster and mechanic) and I have to thank the thread. After checking heaters hoses to heater, verifying vacuum , changing out the thermostat, and finally following this thread and changed out the HVAC Door Actuator my 2008 Ford Ranger now has heat again. Paid $80 (didn't need the thermostat but hey, it was going to go one day) which I'm sure would have been $150-200 at repair shop. Thanks again!!!!

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Must be an 8mm magnet behind that blower, I did the same thing!!! Interested to see if anyone knows where in that "black hole" the sockets landed.

Undrstm8ed · #25 10-28-2014, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4bangerxl

I've gotta do mine now... Mine just went out recently... all I get is hot air on all settings other than Max AC... pain in the butt.

Sounds like what I get.. so then mine is fubar'd too... damn it well may as well dig into it while I have have the truck dash torn down anyway.