Hey everyone, I have a 98' 4cyl 2wd with dual ignition.. And I hit a problem trying to change the plugs. Just bought it, the truck has 180k on it, and it looks like the last owner left the same plugs in since 80,000. My number 4 Plug closest to the cab on the passenger side had a lot of rust, and after 30 secs the hex. on the plug was gone.

I tried the gator socket, and that couldn't get it to move, tried vice grips and got nothing but broken porcelain. How should I get this out? I have some type of a ez-out bit that I havent tried, or should it just go to the shop? Thanks.

Have you tried heating it up with a torch?

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2001 Ford Ranger Supercab (4dr), Oxford White, 4.0 Sohc, 4x4, Manual trans (hurst equipped), 4:10's, 3" body lift.

I haven't, i'm out of fuel at the moment. One guy told me just to drive it in lower gears/high rpm's to get it heated up, then try it.. However I have a misfire due to that plug that just started yesterday, and I don't want to drive it, let alone have it run with that.

i would heat it up and use vice grips. Only use the easy out as a last resort in case you accidentally drill through the entire plug and get shavings inside the cylinder, than you are in alot of trouble.

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2002 Ranger Edge. 4" lift ridin on bilstien 5100. Ion Alloys wrapped in Goodyear Wrangler mud terrains. Intake with 40 series flowmaster. Tonneau cover. Sound system: Two 12" woofers in custom box, powered by 1100 W 2 channel. MB quart components in the front and co axel in the back powered by a 800w. Tough screen head with nav. tinted windows, 8000k hid top and bottom, and im fabricating a skid plate light bar, lost interist so who knows when ill get back to it.

Yeah, that's what I am really afraid of, I've heard horror stories about not noticing any drop, and I dont want to pull my heads. Thanks!

if you do end up drilling it, make sure you have a vaccum right next to the drill so you can suck all the shavings before they find a craves to hide in.

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2002 Ranger Edge. 4" lift ridin on bilstien 5100. Ion Alloys wrapped in Goodyear Wrangler mud terrains. Intake with 40 series flowmaster. Tonneau cover. Sound system: Two 12" woofers in custom box, powered by 1100 W 2 channel. MB quart components in the front and co axel in the back powered by a 800w. Tough screen head with nav. tinted windows, 8000k hid top and bottom, and im fabricating a skid plate light bar, lost interist so who knows when ill get back to it.

You should be ok to drive it. The dual plug design was to increase HP. having just one side off should not make it misfire. Get it heated up and pound a one size smaller socket on it, maybe in a MM size so its not such a durastic drop in size.

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Ball Joints/Upper A-Arms How To
Replace Door pin/bushing
Repair broken dome light tabs
VIDEO OHC Install

idk i dont think it would be very driveable, if its on the intake side that is. because those plugs are for the regular powerstroke, while the exhaust sides are to burn off extra shit since there isnt an egr system. if im not mistaken...

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'99 Ranger XLT Reg. Cab Stepside
2.5L
2WD
5spd
K&N Filter
Air Box Mod
Explorer OHC
2/3 Drop
Join!! FRF no-lifers Clan

its still going to spark and ignite the charge, there is no delay in the firing to hit unburnt fuel.

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Ball Joints/Upper A-Arms How To
Replace Door pin/bushing
Repair broken dome light tabs
VIDEO OHC Install

Driving it to heat it up wont hurt. Also as stated above using a mm size socket will help

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I would also NOT use a 12 point. Get a 6 point on there.

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Ball Joints/Upper A-Arms How To
Replace Door pin/bushing
Repair broken dome light tabs
VIDEO OHC Install

there is a delay tho, When cylinder 1 (exhaust side) fires for the compression stroke, cylinder 4 (intake side) is firing on the exhaust stroke (i did get them mixed up tho). did some more looking and you can switch wires for perf. improvement on combustion stroke.
http://www.hotrodhigh.ca/2300Shockin.html
but beside this, id somehow heat it up or let it run a bit. maybe shoot some pb blaster on it if its gonna be a bit before you do it

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'99 Ranger XLT Reg. Cab Stepside
2.5L
2WD
5spd
K&N Filter
Air Box Mod
Explorer OHC
2/3 Drop
Join!! FRF no-lifers Clan

spray some WD-40 on it, sometimes that helps loosen it up as well.

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2002 Ranger Edge. 4" lift ridin on bilstien 5100. Ion Alloys wrapped in Goodyear Wrangler mud terrains. Intake with 40 series flowmaster. Tonneau cover. Sound system: Two 12" woofers in custom box, powered by 1100 W 2 channel. MB quart components in the front and co axel in the back powered by a 800w. Tough screen head with nav. tinted windows, 8000k hid top and bottom, and im fabricating a skid plate light bar, lost interist so who knows when ill get back to it.

Use some good penetrating oil, rust buster or something like that, get it hot, then put some more on it as it cools down. Give the penetrating oil time to work !!!! Maybe let it sit on there for a couple days, run it through some heat cycles, and keep putting more on before you try to get it out.

Like was mentioned, a smaller 6 point socket hammered on should do it. I'd also do that with the engine hot.

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2011 XL 2.3 5 Speed

Thanks everyone, I'll pick up a 6 point today, but I have a pretty loud tick which i'm guessing is do to a misfire, is it ok to drive it to heat it up with that going on? I have new plugs all around except for this one, and the last 2 on the driver side under thr intake manifold which I'm still trying to work around.