Over cooling problem - Page 2

blueovelboy · #16 10-27-2009, 11:38 PM

well got my truck back today and thay said there was not a problem with my truck? so i drove it home(8 miles ) watching the temp it never moved past the mid range and i had good heat! when i got home it all looked the same under the hood but like i said its only got 1846 miles on it so if thay change any thing i count tell just buy looking. asked head of service for a full report he said thay did nothing to my truck. might be timing? might be t-stat? hell i dont know but some how i got heat today? and if thay did do some thing why not tell me ?

marchev · #17 11-02-2009, 06:05 PM

I got a 94 ranger 2.3 liter motor and I had the same problem, my upper heater core hose was cold while the other one was hot. And I had no heat inside. It turned out to be as sinple as getting the air out of the cooling system. I also replaced my thermostat cuz I thought that was the problem but it wasn't

pur3vil · #18 12-06-2009, 11:26 PM

Well this isn't that old... So I'm dragging it back up.

I've got a 91 2.3 5sp, Same overcooling problem.

Granted I do live in the yonder north and it's COLD! eh no not really yet, give it another month or so, we're fluctuation between -5 and 15... I deliver papers inb the coldest time of the night. And I'm basically required to leave my window down, which yes gets cold.

Here's the deal. Generally after idleing or maintaining a 1750 rev. It will EVENTUALLY get warm. It's on it's second thermostat. Everything else seems to be just fine. The tuck WILL get warm and stay warm UNTIL I turn on the heater, and it acts like you just dipped the front og my pick-up in a dryice bucket.. it will never return back to operating temps unless I cut off the heater. I've got the radiator 100 percent blocked ( to get it to warm up at all ) And I'm going to block the cowl today and see if that helps... Any other ideas?

blueovelboy · #19 12-06-2009, 11:49 PM

never had another problem with mine but a buddy of mine has same problem as us or now just you. he went to lows or home depot and got a plastic reducer that fit inside the hose and reduced it down to a 3/4 inch and just slid it in the hose. he said he has good heat now but he has been know for his random BS and i dont see how that would help?

pur3vil · #20 12-13-2009, 02:05 AM

Well new developments.

I started running a different route for work, which requires about 45 mins driving one way.

I was sweating all the way up north. And more then liekly becuase I have the rad 100% blocked, and the cowl blocked, I was running pretty warm, About 3/4 wouldn't go over that...

And omg did I have some heat.

within 120 seconds tho after stopping, the truck was cold again.

I want to rule air bubbels out, The water level hasn't dropped or anything.. So I'm assuming it's good there, and this seems to be directly related to my heater.so what about restrictions there, .. maybe a few wide wire ties around the heater hose? like I said, so long I leave my heater OFF The truck will get to operating temps.

It's currently -9 ... and the wind is just starting, we're supposed to get to -16 with wind will make it feel close to -30. Heat is a pretty large issue for us in cars hehe...

This sux and I need to fix it. My Astro is the only thing that has good heat.. and it's front heat only becuas eI have to replace the rear heater core... oh.. and the transmission ( It's a chevy, imagine that ) .. :-/ .... we should have that back in today.

And My Spirit needs a heater core.. damnit...

FireRanger · #21 12-13-2009, 08:26 AM

Something else is wrong. Your heater is not the cause of this problem. It doesn't transfer nearly enough heat to cool down the engine like that.

dripdoc · #22 06-02-2011, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bultacco40

Hello all...It's good to be here...I'm not sure where to post my question so I hope I'm doing this right. I have a 1994 Ford Ranger, 2.3L, 2wd. I've noticed lately that it's been running a lot cooler temperaturewise lately. It takes a while to warm up to about the "N" in Normal, then when the stat opens, it quickly goes down to a little above Cold. Top hose is warm bottom hose is almost cold.I do have some heat but not nice and hot. First thing I did was to change the t-stat. Same thing happens, I figured maybe I got a little RTV in there so I changed it again, same thing happens. The next week I changed the Water pump, radiator, rad cap, and hoses and both sending units, and fan clutch. Same thing happens, still runs cold. I then tied off the fan with some string to keep it from moving and it warmed up nicely and the heat was great. I let it warm up to about three quarters the way up the gauge before I untied the fan,cooled right back down to a little above the "C". Thanks for any advice!

Hey going to the heater core back to the Bultacco,
I have a 97 2.3 that runs too cool for me like yours. The one thing I do have is the valve you talked about. It's in the heater hoses about 10" from the core hose connections. It's a vacume accuated valve and it bypasses the water from the core back to the motor. You can press the diaphram rod in to work it manualy and see if that is the prob. Also, if you have air, the air is designed to be on in the defrost and the defrost/heat position to help with humidity and to keep the compressor cycling in winter to keep the seals good. In other words the air is sometimes on at the same time as the heat. If you can't find the valve, maybe someone discontinued it. Hope this helps

pooleo · #23 06-02-2011, 04:20 PM

wow, thread revival!

hahahaha

FireRanger · #24 06-02-2011, 05:12 PM

And just like I said in the post above yours... two years ago...

Quote:

Originally Posted by FireRanger

Something else is wrong. Your heater is not the cause of this problem. It doesn't transfer nearly enough heat to cool down the engine like that.

dripdoc · #25 06-03-2011, 06:11 AM

Then why is it still here?

FireRanger · #26 06-03-2011, 07:51 AM

Are you asking a question about your problem. Or making a statement about it. I don't get what you're trying to accomplish.