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  #46  
Old 01-13-2010, 11:27 AM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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It likely has nothing to do with the brakes. Its of course possible and worth checking but not common by any means. Its also possible you're dragging a boat anchor that fell out of the bed?

What is more likely is a combination of effects that all occur in the winter.

TIRE PRESSURE drops with the temperature. If you had proper pressure over the summer and haven't added more yet, you're low. The drop can be significant. Check your tire pressure and bring it up to normal.

DRIVING HABITS change in the winter. All that time you let the truck sit there idling to warm up is cutting into fuel economy.

COLD ENGINES are not efficient. You know how if you t-stat is sticking open and the engine doesn't warm up, your mileage tanks? Well being that it is cold outside, it takes longer for the engine to warm up. During that longer warm up time, you're getting crappy mileage.

COLD GAS doesn't vaporize as perfectly as warm gas. This can make your engine not be quite as efficient, especially during warm up.

COLD AIR IS MORE DENSE than warm air. Your engine's computer senses the intake air temperature and manages the fuel/air mixture appropriately. More dense air means it needs to use more gas in the mix to keep the ratio correct. So your going to use more gas just on the fact that the air is cold. This is why aircraft perform so much better in the cold. There is "more air" for the propeller and wings to use.

"WINTER GAS FORMULAS" help compensate for the lack of vaporization in the winter. But this does sometimes effect performance a little. This what people refer to when they say "winter gas". But its effect can be quite negligable, especially if you already have ethenol in your gas rather than MTBE.

ADDED ELECTRICAL LOAD on the alternator will translate to more load on the engine since the belt is driving the alternator. It gets darker sooner which means headlights are on more. The blower is usually cranked on high a lot more as you try to pump heat into the cab as fast as possible while you're freezing your ass off. The defroster is on more often to keep the windshield clear of ice which means the AC compressor is going to be running more (it always runs in defrost mode) which ads more load to the engine too.


Each of these thing by themselves is a negligible difference. But when you combine them all together, bye bye mileage.
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  #47  
Old 01-14-2010, 07:10 AM
Clem Clem is offline
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This is very close to what a mechanic friend has stated.
The one thing I have been lead to believe, the air temp sensor on all engines from mid 90’s on, raise hell with economy in the winter time. Seems this sensor sends a pulse to the PCM about the intake air temp, the lower the temp, the more fuel that is dumped into the engine by the injectors. Now I do not know this for a fact, but the people giving this scenario deal with engines and their control systems daily, so I find it hard to doubt them too much.
I am running a K&N CAI 77-2529KP which helps as the temps rise outside, but kill me when the temps fall. What I have done to date to try to gain a little better mileage, duct taped the back of the radiator support in an attempt to keep some warmer air in the engine compartment around the air intake, also blocked off the area between the frame and the radiator/engine with some cardboard.
This has shown some increase in mileage, not a lot, but for the half hour or so to do the job, it may be worth it. The last fill up showed an increase of .5 mpg, or about 9 miles to the tank full.
When the temps here were in the teens and lower, a trip of 450 miles and no modification netted 15.6 mpg. That same trip in the warmer months has netted 21 mpg more than once. I will be making that trip again next week with everything closed off in that corner of the engine compartment, so will see how that goes then.

Ray
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  #48  
Old 01-14-2010, 07:33 AM
davidjsouth davidjsouth is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay FX4 View Post
At what RPM is it shifting at through each gear? I let my 4.0 SOHC auto trans shift at around 2500 for 1st and 2nd, and 2000-ish for 3rd and 4th. Without knowing how you drive it, it's tough to say how much you could improve the mileage by easing up your right, but it sounds like you may have other issues.

When I first got my Ranger, I was only getting around 220 miles per tank and around 12-14mpg. I haven't changed anything on the truck, only my driving style, and I'm now getting up to 350 miles on a tank and 20mpg in all city driving. That just goes to show that how you drive can make a HUGE difference.

Ditto. I get about 240-maybe 250 on my 19 gallon tank. I've been driving back and forth to work. Costs me about $40 to fill it. It's killing me but I'm leaving my Focus for my wife b/c her van is parked until I can fix it. Need warmer weather.
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  #49  
Old 01-14-2010, 09:45 AM
Jay FX4 Jay FX4 is offline
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Well those numbers I posted in early September are out the window now.
At the moment, I have about half a tank of gas left after filling it up, and I have only driven 80 miles.

That was an excellent post by FireRanger explaining the reasons why mileage decreases so much in the winter.

I always have my headlights on (rain or shine, day or night) and usually run my fogs too, for no reason whatsoever other than the fact that I like lights. But I quit running the fogs and try to keep my fan speed at the lowest setting I can tolerate. Little things like that do help.

I just have to start leaving for work earlier so I don't have to drive as fast. Also what hurts me is that I work only about 4 miles from where I live, so the truck never really gets warmed up....
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  #50  
Old 01-14-2010, 10:54 AM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clem View Post
The one thing I have been lead to believe, the air temp sensor on all engines from mid 90’s on, raise hell with economy in the winter time. Seems this sensor sends a pulse to the PCM about the intake air temp, the lower the temp, the more fuel that is dumped into the engine by the injectors. Now I do not know this for a fact, but the people giving this scenario deal with engines and their control systems daily, so I find it hard to doubt them too much.


Quote:
Originally Posted by FireRanger View Post
COLD AIR IS MORE DENSE than warm air. Your engine's computer senses the intake air temperature and manages the fuel/air mixture appropriately. More dense air means it needs to use more gas in the mix to keep the ratio correct. So your going to use more gas just on the fact that the air is cold. This is why aircraft perform so much better in the cold. There is "more air" for the propeller and wings to use.
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  #51  
Old 01-15-2010, 12:51 AM
Tom Tom is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireRanger View Post
It likely has nothing to do with the brakes. Its of course possible and worth checking but not common by any means. Its also possible you're dragging a boat anchor that fell out of the bed?

What is more likely is a combination of effects that all occur in the winter.

TIRE PRESSURE drops with the temperature. If you had proper pressure over the summer and haven't added more yet, you're low. The drop can be significant. Check your tire pressure and bring it up to normal.

DRIVING HABITS change in the winter. All that time you let the truck sit there idling to warm up is cutting into fuel economy.

COLD ENGINES are not efficient. You know how if you t-stat is sticking open and the engine doesn't warm up, your mileage tanks? Well being that it is cold outside, it takes longer for the engine to warm up. During that longer warm up time, you're getting crappy mileage.

COLD GAS doesn't vaporize as perfectly as warm gas. This can make your engine not be quite as efficient, especially during warm up.

COLD AIR IS MORE DENSE than warm air. Your engine's computer senses the intake air temperature and manages the fuel/air mixture appropriately. More dense air means it needs to use more gas in the mix to keep the ratio correct. So your going to use more gas just on the fact that the air is cold. This is why aircraft perform so much better in the cold. There is "more air" for the propeller and wings to use.

"WINTER GAS FORMULAS" help compensate for the lack of vaporization in the winter. But this does sometimes effect performance a little. This what people refer to when they say "winter gas". But its effect can be quite negligable, especially if you already have ethenol in your gas rather than MTBE.

ADDED ELECTRICAL LOAD on the alternator will translate to more load on the engine since the belt is driving the alternator. It gets darker sooner which means headlights are on more. The blower is usually cranked on high a lot more as you try to pump heat into the cab as fast as possible while you're freezing your ass off. The defroster is on more often to keep the windshield clear of ice which means the AC compressor is going to be running more (it always runs in defrost mode) which ads more load to the engine too.


Each of these thing by themselves is a negligible difference. But when you combine them all together, bye bye mileage.
Very nice write up.
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  #52  
Old 01-15-2010, 01:52 PM
Clem Clem is offline
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Drove to Richland and back yesterday, mileage for the trip was 18.4 mpg, the temp was about 45* average. So maybe closing some of the cold air off has helped. I do realize the difference between 13* and 45* is also going to make a difference, but I will take the 3mpg difference anyway.

Ray
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  #53  
Old 08-09-2010, 08:04 PM
mrguy mrguy is offline
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Default Re: Horrible gas mileage, I mean horrible.....

Hello everyone,

Three months ago I recently acquired a 2005 Ranger Edge (Supercab) from my father. It has a 3.0L with automatic transmission. It has about 88,500 km (55,000 miles) on it and is pretty much factory. My dad is pretty good and doing standard maintenance, but I'm finding that I'm getting low mileage. I've been tracking my fuel economy and have noticed that I get about 14.5 to 16.5 mpg (16-14 L/100km) on a mix of city and highway driving. If my research is correct, EPA is 18 city and 22 highway for mpg (13 - 11 L/100km). I try to keep my city driving reasonable to conserve fuel and keep highway speeds between 50-70 mph (80-110 kph) depending on posted limits. Any ideas on why my fuel economy isn't the greatest? I recently had an oil change where I replaced the air filter and tire pressure is good. Do I need new spark plugs, clean the MAF, use some fuel injector cleaner, all three? I try not to use the A/C if I can bear the heat.

Thanks

Stephen
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  #54  
Old 08-10-2010, 06:17 AM
sgtsandman sgtsandman is offline
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Default Re: Horrible gas mileage, I mean horrible.....

I would try all three.

Running two tanks of fuel system cleaner did a lot for me (up to 20 gallons sized bottle).
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  #55  
Old 08-11-2010, 12:34 PM
02'4.04x4 02'4.04x4 is offline
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Default Re: Horrible gas mileage, I mean horrible.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrguy View Post
Hello everyone,

Three months ago I recently acquired a 2005 Ranger Edge (Supercab) from my father. It has a 3.0L with automatic transmission. It has about 88,500 km (55,000 miles) on it and is pretty much factory. My dad is pretty good and doing standard maintenance, but I'm finding that I'm getting low mileage. I've been tracking my fuel economy and have noticed that I get about 14.5 to 16.5 mpg (16-14 L/100km) on a mix of city and highway driving. If my research is correct, EPA is 18 city and 22 highway for mpg (13 - 11 L/100km). I try to keep my city driving reasonable to conserve fuel and keep highway speeds between 50-70 mph (80-110 kph) depending on posted limits. Any ideas on why my fuel economy isn't the greatest? I recently had an oil change where I replaced the air filter and tire pressure is good. Do I need new spark plugs, clean the MAF, use some fuel injector cleaner, all three? I try not to use the A/C if I can bear the heat.

Thanks

Stephen
Well there are a plenty of things you can do that should help.
1. as mentioned fuel system cleaner, there's a brand I cannot think of but everyone here knows what it is, comes in a can that is red and white, and it does some great things.

2. Add Mervelous mystery oil to engine oil. ( to help free up any sticking parts, the red an d white can can also do a great job also

3. Flush and replace Diff oil. (helps more than one would know)

4. Clean the MAF is a quick easy. why not.

5. if the previous owner ran 85 or 87oct. then I would replace the plugs with some good old champion copper plugs and run 89oct.

6. Tires could be a good deal of difference I am running Grabber HTS it is a LRR tire ("low rolling resistance" this kind of tire can be found easily on Tirerack.com left side of page, bottom of the choice column when searching for tires.)

7. other than that in city driving there are those who let the motor accelerate the vehicle and those who accellerate the motor, this makes a big difference, also when hwy driving pay attention to the RPM's 2krpm's can generically be figured out as a loss of 1 mpg, so the closer you keep it to 2k/2,2k RPM's the better the rate will be. if your vehicle has the 4.10 gearing then your are especially susceptable to this. HTH
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Last edited by 02'4.04x4; 08-11-2010 at 12:39 PM. Reason: grahmor less speleeng
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  #56  
Old 08-11-2010, 07:46 PM
sgtsandman sgtsandman is offline
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Default Re: Horrible gas mileage, I mean horrible.....

I think he means Seafoam. Very popular on here. Chevron Techron works very well too, just get the one for up to 20 gallons and run the tank to damn near empty. Then repeat.

While I did not notice a difference in fuel mileage changing my differential fluid, the truck performed a lot better afterward (change it every 50,000 miles).

The tires you use DO make a difference. Most truck tires are fuel suckers but there are some that have good rolling resistance, they will be a highway tire or an all season tire. There is no such thing as a low rolling resistance all terrain or mud tire that I've ever seen (I've done quite a bit of research on tires in general before getting mine).

Good luck!
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  #57  
Old 08-11-2010, 08:23 PM
MTbucket MTbucket is offline
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Default Re: Horrible gas mileage, I mean horrible.....

One thing that really helped me was getting an instant fuel consumption display. there are a few out there that you just plug in and go. they have instant, average, and trip MPG and you can see lots of things that effect mileage, like speeds on the highway, coasting, use of A/C, windows down, etc...Mine more than paid for itself in fuel saved, plus it can scan for codes and turn of the check engine light.

Here is mine, a scanguage II



That is my record tank, 610 miles on 17 gallons. you won't get that with your v6, but 400-500 is doable if you have a 20 gallon tank...

Last edited by MTbucket; 08-11-2010 at 08:27 PM.
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  #58  
Old 08-12-2010, 08:42 PM
mrguy mrguy is offline
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Default Re: Horrible gas mileage, I mean horrible.....

Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to try the Seafoam and see what that does, then look into changing the plugs. I want to do them sequentially to to see the impact they make. I gave the MAF a quick eyeball, didn't look too bad, but will probably clean that too. I've heard O2 sensors can be a bit problematic too.
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  #59  
Old 08-13-2010, 11:07 AM
TerrenceStuart TerrenceStuart is offline
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Default Re: Horrible gas mileage, I mean horrible.....

Michael, if my 4.0 4x4 got half the mileage you do, i'd be happy.
I'm getting about 14 mpg (original dealer invoice claims 15-19 brand new, so 14 isn't too far off)
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  #60  
Old 08-13-2010, 05:25 PM
Fluffy Fluffy is offline
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Default Re: Horrible gas mileage, I mean horrible.....

ive got the 3.0 in mine and im getting about 200 to the tank. ive changed the injector on cylender 6 and the plugs, wires and the coil.
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