Are there any detailed instructions for removing and replacing the heater core on a 1995 XL. I know is involved job but can't afford a shop. thanks

im trying to remember what style dash the 95's have in them. if its the old style changing the heater core is super easy. theres a cover under the dash on the passenger side, remove about 4 small bolts and the cover comes off. disconnect the two heater hoses that connect to the core at the firewall under the hood and it will come out. if you have the new style dash its not as easy, you have to pull the dash to do it. hopefully someone else will chime in here about what dash you have.

__________________

yes, you'll have to pull the dash. i think r-f or rps has a few threads on how to pull the dash.

__________________
Krylon Fusion is for Amateurs.

Where would I find r-f or rps threads? Thanks

R-F is Ranger Forum and RPS is Ranger Power Station. Both are other forums. I might have part of the last forum name wrong though.

__________________
Sgtsandman's Work in Progress
2011 Ranger XLT, 4X4, 4 door Super Cab. 4.0L, 5 Speed M50D-R1HD, 3.73:1, 8.8" open differential, Jason Pace cap
2019 Ford Ranger STX FX4, Super Crew, 2.3L Ecoboost, 10 speed automatic, 3.73:1 with rear locker, Leer 100XR cap

rps is ranger power sports.

__________________
Krylon Fusion is for Amateurs.

1997 Ranger heater core replacement

make sure you buy an oem replacment some of the cheap ones are blowing out.....

__________________
2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

Hi all. Thanks for all the help. Got the core replaced no prob. Just pulled the dash back and was able to get at the core. bit of fiddling but went better than I expected. I was intimidated by all the behind the dash stuff but when I learned I didn't have to touch most of that I was game. I don't think I got an OEM core though so I hope this one lasts for awhile at least. Also fixed my heater fan at same time as it was only working on high speed. Replaced the resistor and the wire plug and works fine now. I got some detailed info from a Bob on the forum and he had pics and detailed notes on doing the job and it was a great help. Will try to get the right post for that or maybe he will update it now. thanks again all.

where did you get the resistor and the plug? i need to do that on mine.

__________________
Krylon Fusion is for Amateurs.

got the resistor and plug at a Ford Dealer because I had read on some post that it was not available at other autoparts stores. Round $30(Can) for resistor and $18 for plug with wires attached.

Just replaced mine on my friends 2000 Ranger, today. 5 hours and 30 mins, not too shabby for my first time pulling the dash ( I could probably do it in 3 next time). It was a manual, so dropping the column was easy but the shifter got in the way from pulling the dash back far enough. So I disconnected every wire, even the body wiring under the driver's seat (had to take the seat out), to take the dash out. Removed air intake box and coolant and washer fluid res to shimmy the hvac box out to access the other bolts to pull the plenum.

Friend paid me 100 dollars for doing it. I don't think that was a bad deal (definitely a good deal for him), plus I got the experience.

This was the hardest thing I've ever done on a Ranger. Ford really messed up when they changed how to replace it. I would really like to find out who came up with this design and kick them straight in the gonads.

__________________
Automotive Electronics Engineer
2000 XLT 2.5L A/T
Mods:
Explorer OHC
Explorer Autodim Mirrors w/ Autolamps
Explorer Sport White Face Gauges

^^^^ i hear you on that!

__________________
1998 ranger extended cab, 2wd, 4.0 ohv, 5 speed, sony xploid 52 4 way watt radio, 2 pair of pioneer 240 watt speakers, Cobra 29 LX LCD CB radio pushing 100 watts, k&n air filter, 15 inch exploder wheels, dual exhaust with 4 inch stainless tips, 2 12 inch subs with a 1000 watt amp just for the hell of it!

new project: dirt track modified racing at the local saturday night track.

once you have done it a time or two, it's not bad. i can pull mine in less than an hour. the wiring is simple. there are three connectors in the firewall. unhook them and you have basically disconnected the dash from the rest of the wiring.

i pull dashes a lot at work. it's not that bad once you get going.

if you want to kick a designer in the nuts, go to Chrysler. some of their mini van require removal of the cat and exhaust just to unbolt a seat. i've see a lot of really retarded things different manufacturers have done. ranger dash is the least of them.

__________________
Krylon Fusion is for Amateurs.

Same here...On mine I had to not only take the dash out, but unbolt that big black box under the hood with the AC stuff, and behind the box was more bolts, and to pull the black box out far enough to get at the bolts behind it, we had to take out the overflow tank and windshield wiper fluid tank...Most of the time my friend and I were doing it the only thing coming out of our mouths was "WHHHHYYYY?"

__________________

Never replaced the heatercore, Probably should have, I have removed my dash in my 01 ranger 7-10 times, got really easy, I could do it in 40mins, hell I could do it with my eyes closed, Its pretty simple and straight forward, however I will do the heatercore replacement next time, since I will taking my dash out over the winter for painting.

__________________
http://s694.photobucket.com/user/dix...dding.jpg.html

They will remember me always