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  #16  
Old 10-04-2010, 04:57 PM
CADreamin CADreamin is offline
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Default Re: Engine Oil

Not trying to be a jerk, just trying to get this guy down the right path
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  #17  
Old 10-04-2010, 05:06 PM
mickblock mickblock is offline
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Thumbs up Re: Engine Oil

I understood the purpose of your input sir.
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  #18  
Old 10-05-2010, 10:21 AM
CADreamin CADreamin is offline
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Default Re: Engine Oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Woodland View Post
I'm a bit confused, I've heard more times than I can count you are not supposed to use conventional oil then switch to synthetic, of an type.

Is this true with exception of high mileage engines?
For what it's worth, I've "converted" all of my used vehicles to Mobil 1 full synthetic after I've purchased them, with no ill effects.

As discussed in the last few posts, a thicker weight of oil or the "high-mileage" variety may be appropriate as the engine accumulates mileage and wear. But it sounds like you have a really well-running high-mileage engine. 118K on 5W-30 with no oil use is pretty impressive.
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  #19  
Old 10-05-2010, 11:27 AM
Dan Woodland Dan Woodland is offline
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Default Re: Engine Oil

Thanks for the information guys, it really helps.

CADreamin, My Dad was an Electrical Engineer so he took maintenance very seriously. there is writing all over under the hood where he tracked what was done when.

Thanks again everyone. Dan
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1997 XLT , Splash suspension
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  #20  
Old 10-05-2010, 06:43 PM
sgtsandman sgtsandman is offline
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Default Re: Engine Oil

Switching from petroleum to synthetic oil isn't a problem like it used to be. It used to be that an engine with age on it could leak because the synthetic would clear out the varnish the would plug up imperfections in the old style gaskets but that isn't an issue anymore. Switch away with no fear.
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  #21  
Old 10-06-2010, 06:55 AM
Dan Woodland Dan Woodland is offline
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Default Re: Engine Oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtsandman View Post
Switching from petroleum to synthetic oil isn't a problem like it used to be. It used to be that an engine with age on it could leak because the synthetic would clear out the varnish the would plug up imperfections in the old style gaskets but that isn't an issue anymore. Switch away with no fear.
Makes sense, thanks.
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1997 XLT , Splash suspension
5 speed , Regular Cab
60/40 split bench
All Original, 165K miles (complete brake job)
Clutch, master and slave, timing belt 110K
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  #22  
Old 10-07-2010, 09:30 PM
SpeedNinja SpeedNinja is offline
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Default Re: Engine Oil

Castrol High Mileage synthetic.
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  #23  
Old 10-08-2010, 11:34 PM
art47 art47 is offline
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Default Re: Engine Oil

I always thought 30 weight was thicker than 20 weight. Probably just transposed.

I like synthetic oil because it keeps its lubricity longer and is more resistant to high heat. Its hard to say (unless you are a lubricant chemist) which is best, I have used Amsoil, Castrol and Mobil1 all fully synthetic versions, and they have all performed well. You can mix syn and petroleum oils without problems.

Just keep it slick and friction free.
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  #24  
Old 10-08-2010, 11:37 PM
art47 art47 is offline
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Default Re: Engine Oil

Duh! I should read to the ends of the thread before responding!!

OOps sorry
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  #25  
Old 10-08-2010, 11:50 PM
Coleosis Coleosis is offline
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Default Re: Engine Oil

I was going to switch to synthetic, but someone told me its not a good idea to switch a high mileage engine to synthetic. I wasnt around long enough to hear his reasoning...so I just go with castrol gtx high mileage...which has been in my truck for at least the last 30k miles.
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  #26  
Old 10-09-2010, 07:10 AM
sgtsandman sgtsandman is offline
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Default Re: Engine Oil

That's old school thinking when the old seals would spring a leak if you switched because the seals would either strink or the synthetic would clean out all the goo that was keeping the seal from leaking. Synthetic now days has similar seal swelling properties to petrolium oil so switching shouldn't be a problem. There is nothing wrong with what you are using though.
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2011 Ranger XLT, 4X4, 4 door Super Cab. 4.0L, 5 Speed M50D-R1HD, 3.73:1, 8.8" open differential, Jason Pace cap
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  #27  
Old 10-31-2010, 10:56 AM
mdblitz mdblitz is offline
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Default Re: Engine Oil

Looks as though I have a rear main seal leaking. Prying on the bell housing/clutch inspection plate with my finger lets out some oil. Before winter sets in I'm going to change the filter and oil to Motorcraft Full Synthetic. Just curious, since synthetic does not break down like petroleum, why change it before 10k? My truck sits for days at a time because I have to use co. truck. Synthetic is better, right?
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  #28  
Old 11-28-2010, 11:40 AM
RollinHigh2020 RollinHigh2020 is offline
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Default Re: Engine Oil

This might sound stupid but I was wondering if the oil readings on the dip stick will be different when the truck was been leveled? since the oil drains further back into the oil pan.
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  #29  
Old 11-28-2010, 05:27 PM
crowdpleazer crowdpleazer is offline
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Default Re: Engine Oil

possibly but i dont think that it will be a major difference. after you change your oil check the dipstick and remember exactly where it is. then check often just to see if it changes level
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