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  #61  
Old 12-24-2011, 07:17 PM
mulletbrosracing mulletbrosracing is offline
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Default Re: No heat

thanks for writing back on this.merry christmas!!!
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  #62  
Old 12-25-2011, 02:44 PM
rjbaker rjbaker is offline
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Default Re: No heat

let me know if u need anything else, mx
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  #63  
Old 12-27-2011, 10:30 AM
mulletbrosracing mulletbrosracing is offline
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Default Re: No heat

hi everyone,well i've just got done pulling the dash out,what a real joy![ dear ford ,please build a dash that is split in half so you dont have to pull all the stuff on the drivers side!!!!you went to college for 4years to become brain dead .have you ever worked on any of the stuff you designed? i think not.so now heres my next question,is there any speacial procedere to hook up the steering wheel back on to the knuckle? thanks for all your help bob...
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  #64  
Old 12-27-2011, 10:52 AM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default

You disconnected the steering wheel to remove the blend door actuator? ?

[Posted with my Android mobile device using Tapatalk Pro]
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  #65  
Old 12-27-2011, 11:33 AM
mulletbrosracing mulletbrosracing is offline
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Default Re: No heat

ya i pulled the whole dash,changed the heater core to.disconnected the steering wheel down at the bottom where it slides into the knuckle thats attached to the little ujoint then it gos out of the cab.theres a spring right above were it slides onto the shaft. thanks .bob.
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  #66  
Old 12-27-2011, 09:46 PM
jetacer jetacer is offline
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Default Re: No heat

So, my 2006 Ford Ranger is stuck in one temp selection - thank god it's on a warm setting but not hot. If I had to guess I would say it's around 70 percent heat. I purchased a new blend motor from Advanced Auto for $40. I pulled the old one, plugged it back in, turned the key on and adjusted the temp selector - nothing happened. The old motor didn't move. So, I plugged in the new one and got the same result. I found an electrical diagram and started checking the wires. My resistance from warm to cold was 4800, my readings from center point to each of the warm and cold settings ranged from 185 to 4800 so that part seems fine. With the key on, I check for voltage at the plug and had 12 volts. I checked the power to frame and got 12 volts. With the key off I get 0 ohms from ground to metal frame. It seems like everything is checking out fine. I'm guessing that this point I bought a faulty blend motor from Advanced. Am I missing anything? All 5 wires at the connection behind the glove box seem good to me. Any thoughts?

OK, the information for testing the wires says the resistance should be between 5000 and 6000 for the total loop and mine is coming back at around 4840. Does anyone see this as a problem? Ford says it should be between 5K and 6K, I don't think 4840 is that far off. Also the range the testing documents call for center point to warm or cold should be vary from 250 ohms to 5500 ohms. Mine ranges from 185 ohms to 4840 ohms which I don't think matters that much. Any thoughts on that?

Update - 12-29-11. I returned the actuator that I purchased from Advance. Turns out it was defective. If it wasn't defective I would have saved about 6 hours of my time testing and trying to find another reason why it didn't work. That 6 hours of learning was a good thing. I now understand how the whole system is suppose to work so I guess overall it was a good thing that it was defective. Anyways, I guess if you take Ohm readings and they are at least close to what the specs say they should be, then you should be good to go. I bought the new one from Auto Zone for about the same price ($40). Putting the back screw/bolt back in place was a pain but I did manage to get it done. It's nice to be able to adjust the temp in the vehicle again. Thanks to everyone on this forum with their helpful comments and stories.

Last edited by jetacer; 12-29-2011 at 11:02 AM. Reason: Found Solution
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  #67  
Old 12-28-2011, 12:06 PM
NewShockerGuy NewShockerGuy is offline
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Arrow Re: No heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by atzertj View Post
I had the same problem and thankfully it was just the control valve. I took the time to pull the blend door motor off just to see if it was broke. It took more time to check that than it did to replace the control valve. For $15 bucks I would just get the control valve, flush the heater core while you have it pulled apart, then replace the valve. If that doesn't fix the problem then look into the blend door. Save yourself some time and avoid the blend door unless you have to.


How does one flush the heater core?

Thanks,
-Nigel
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  #68  
Old 01-02-2012, 04:18 PM
woodsman1942 woodsman1942 is offline
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Default Re: No heat

I have a 98 Ranger s/cab 3.0 auto. Heater would not get warm-checked hoses-inlet to core hot-return was cold, Heater seemed to work fair until I drove it about 5 or 6 miles then it would cool down. I took it to my friendly Ford dealer and they flushed core, same thing, Then I took it to a recommended radiator shop, they flushed it, same thing. SO-thought I would use a little shade tree work, what did I have to lose. I went to parts house and bought 12 ft of heater hose, I already had a boat bilge pump. Put pump in bottom of 5 gallon bucket, attached hose from pump to heater core and other hose from core to bucket (return). THEN I put 2 gallon of white vinegar in the bucket and attached lines to battery. Flushed for 30 minutes, switched hoses and flushed another 30 minutes. Then to be safe I emptied vinegar and did same thing with tap water. Guess what----Now I have plenty of heat. I was just about to have heater core replaced (400.00+) so the old shade tree job saved me a bundle. I hope this helps someone else before they invest in core replacement. ON the 98 the steering column and dash has to be removed to do this.
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  #69  
Old 01-02-2012, 07:36 PM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: No heat

The inlet being hot and the outlet being cold is a dead ringer for a clogged core. Good job on recognizing it and fixing it for free.
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  #70  
Old 12-25-2017, 01:16 PM
Dashi Dashi is offline
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Default Re: No heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by jveigl View Post
Ok its fixed,

Had one night after school of fog and cold, almost had to stick my head out the window to see for the 2 mile trip home.....had to fix it.

It turned out to be the Blend Door Actuator, its a small white box that sits just on top of the heater core plastic housing. You can see it when you lower the glove box all the way down. (press in on the sides of the glove box door to release each side from its keepers) There are 3 small 8mm bolts that are just a real pain to get to, I had to get an adjustable 8mm ratcheting wrench to get them out. Then its just a matter of unplugging the old one and pulling or prying straight up on the module to get it out then the installation is just the reverse of removal. There isn't much room in there, if you have small hands like me, this shouldn't be a problem, if not, I would suggest finding someone with small hands to do this project. Don't force anything, this module seems to be breakable to me. I actually had to plug the module in before reinstalling it and using the hot/cold knob to line up the actuator door with the actuator shaft so it would just fall into place. Works perfectly now!! BTW-I found out the hard way that if there is no heat, your windows will not defrost! The air coming out of the vents was so cold that it actually froze the condensation on the outside of the windshield while I was driving. So beware of the consequences of this part going bad.

Thanks
Yeah man I drove for two weeks with no heat and then checked that lil box out only to find out that the plugs was never reinserted thanks for the tip but yeah I have heat now lol, the mechanic was saying it would be my thermostat or the other problems listed here but that was it!
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