READ ME: All about Intake Air Temperature / CAI / MAF - Page 2

Jp7 · #16 08-08-2010, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sgtsandman

The thinking is that the longer you can keep the exhaust hot, the faster it will leave the exhaust creating and thus allowing the cylinder to clear better for the next air/fuel charge but this is a digression from your original subject matter...

That's actually a pretty accurate description. Coming through the head it is hottest and slowing it down hurts the most. This is where most of the design work is done. Also hotter gases make the catalyst more efficient. It has more to do with pulling the next pulse out of the head, rather than reducing any kind of backpressure though. This applies to both N/A & Boost.

Texas001 · #17 08-27-2010, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yrac

Story time! Saw a guy that raced a slant 6 with a 4 barrel. He had copper fuel lines wrapped around a coffee can. He'd fill it up with dry ice on race day and drop a second off his quarter mile time!

We did this back in the 50's and 60's. Way before fuel injection and computers. What this guy was trying to do was prevent vapor lock.

wintermute · #18 10-09-2010, 04:57 PM

The only real apparent restriction I see in this intake design is that the air inlet to the filter housing seems pretty small relative to the engine side. However, feedback on the airbox mod shows that even opening that up a little really doesn't do much of anything.

2000ranger302 · #19 04-14-2011, 05:12 AM

I'm sure people have thought of this before and tried it, but couldn't you put like a tiny A/C evaporator core on the incoming end of the air intake tube, or would that be too cold? Just a thought.

FireRanger · #20 04-14-2011, 05:25 AM

No such thing as too cold. But in order to not be a restriction to air flow, it would have to be a pretty big coil, and the small gain in power would be lost running the compressor for it I think.

Gearhead Girl · #21 09-02-2011, 07:07 PM

Hey FireRanger

Before reading this I had made up my mind to install that K&N setup (not cheap by the way) but what you say makes perfect sense.
You saved me money, time, and regret....in the nick of time!!
Thank You.

my ranger · #22 10-06-2011, 09:08 PM

so, the air box mod dosent means nothing?

FireRanger · #23 10-06-2011, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by my ranger

so, the air box mod dosent means nothing?

I'm pretty sure its been said about 100 times that it makes the intake louder and that's it.

JDFeniello · #24 10-07-2011, 12:47 AM

This is a great post! I'm glad somebody else out there looks at things from a scientific viewpoint. Too many people these days (nobody specific here on FRF) are fooled by marketing and rhetoric aimed at tricking people into buying something.
Not that i would want to own a Japanese truck. but Nissan's are most all built with the intake vented outside at the grille below the windshield wipers. Pretty cool idea if you ask me. Kind of like snorkeling your truck without actually snorkeling it. A great alternative, if you feel like rerouting the intake hose, to installing a snorkel if you don't need to be driving through water up to the windows, or driving through a sand storm in the Sahara!

ricochet · #25 10-07-2011, 01:48 AM

Not that I'm planning a CAI or airbox mod, but - Question: I have the IAT temp displayed on my scangauage. Mostly to get a close reading to the outside air temp, like a overhead console with its temp sensor. When the engine is cold and my truck is moving, the IAT reads the same as the outside air temp. I've observed that once hot and stationary/idling, the IAT temp rises. Once moving again it will drop, but takes a while. Is there some spillov of hot air from the engine compartment to the outside intake, or is this because the airbox and/or air path/tubes etc are heating up? Could it be just the part of the intake where the sensor is that is heating up, ie it's not the actual intake air temp and the result is a lean mixture... While typing this, I'm thinking about that roll of aluminum tape I have in my basement (for sealing HVAC ducts) and perhaps wrapping the air path/tubes would be an interesting experiment...

FireRanger · #26 10-07-2011, 07:04 AM

On the newer Rangers, the IAT is integrated with the MAF. I notice the same thing. Given that it rises so slowly and drops slowly also, I believe it is mostly radiant heat from the engine bay heating up the MAF itself. If it was mostly warm air being sucked though, I think it would be a faster change.

Palidun · #27 10-11-2011, 07:19 AM

Your article on Ranger air intake would lead me to believe the modifications to the air system of our trucks that would get the most bang for the buck would be to do the mod that removes the air silencer inside the air box, and to stick in a K&N low restriction air filter. Do you agree

FireRanger · #28 10-11-2011, 07:43 AM

Yes I do.

cbull · #29 10-17-2011, 10:44 AM

So if im understanding all i have been reading about intakes, is you get NO power gains at all from going with a bigger air filter and aftermarket intake. Because most of your aftermarket intakes suck the air from inside the engine compartment. It sounds like the best thing to do is continue using your stock intake system and go with a amsoil filter or k&n that replaces your stock air filter.
Would this also be true if going with a full dual exhaust (including headers).
Wanting to get a little more power. The amount of $ is not an issue, but dont want to buy things that have no power gains!
Thanks!!

PaulBennett · #30 10-28-2011, 04:21 AM

For someone maintaining their own vehicles, all they needs to know about the MAF sensor is where it is (see Owner's Manual) and how to keep it clean.

The MAF circuit directly influences gas mileage so it is important to routinely clean the sensor CORRECTLY and safely. As special metals are used for the thin wires which comprise the sensor, it is important to use special purpose MAF sensor aerosol can cleaner ONLY, about $6. Some people automatically grab the WD-40, but you must not...other cleaners may either not clean completely or will leave a residue which mitigate cleaning and compromise results.

MAF attachment screws on Fords often use 'tamper resistant torx' aka 'security torx' for R&R. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech.../CleanMAF.html questions?