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Old 09-19-2019, 08:43 AM
TKulesa85 TKulesa85 is offline
Tom K
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 1
Default 1998 Ranger 2WD 2.5L Wont Start - Good Crank, Good Fuel, No Spark

1998 Ranger 2WD 2.5L SOHC Automatic ~160K miles

Prior to this the truck started and ran with no real issues.
While changing the spark plugs & wires I found that both plugs on the first cylinder had seized. I was able to get the driver's side out (lots of rust), but the passenger side broke off in the head. Pulled the head. Gasket actually didn't look too bad, but there was some surface rust on the walls of cyl #1, rust on the underside of cyl #1 valves. Purchased a new head and proceeded to change it out.
During the head swap, I also changed out the following parts. Some were changed because they were bad, some because it just made sense based on having access I would not typically have:
  • Upper Radiator Hose
  • Lower Radiator Hose
  • Drive Belt Tensioner
  • Drive Belt
  • EGR Line
  • EGR Valve
  • Upstream O2 Sensor
  • Oil Pressure Sender
  • Water Pump
  • Power Steering Pump
  • Thermostat
  • Timing Belt
  • Timing Belt Tensioner
  • Heater Inlet Hose
  • Heater Outlet Hose
  • Water Inlet Pipe
  • Inner Timing Cover (Broken)
  • Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)
Note regarding the CKP: We changed this for 2 reasons. 1) It was difficult to get the timing cover on with the CKP in place; 2) The CKP is such a critical part and it seemed to make sense based on access.

However, when we tried to remove the CKP, it didn't just pop right out as expected. Tried to pop it out with a screwdriver and the terminal broke off. For lack of a better description, the whole sensor had "become one" with the front cover. We wound up having to drill it out (very carefully) with 5/8" bit. It was then replaced with a Duralast SU2016. I would've preferred Motorcraft but this was the only option available at AutoZone that day.
Timing was dead on - triangle to triangle for the cam and diamond to diamond for the oil pump at TDC. Timing marks remained dead on after numerous rotations back to TDC. Reassembled everything else with no further issues.

Tried to start the truck with no success at all. I get a very good crank. Spark plugs are wet with fuel. 12 Volts measured at both coil pack connections. Checked all the fuses and no issues at all. No spark from any of the wires. I have checked power to the CKP connector - confirmed at 1.5V. I also checked continuity to ground, as well as continuity from PCM to CKP connector (pin 21) and CKP connector to PCM (pin 22). Finally, I checked continuity between the PCM and ignition coils #1 & #2. All checked out with no problem.
Where do I go from here? At this point my only logical conclusion is that the Duralast CKP I bought was outright defective. I don't know how likely that is, but I don't see any other possible cause. How exact are these things? In other words, could a tiny misalignment from the manner in which I removed the old one (1/32"-1/16") cause it to not receive a signal from the crankshaft sprocket? Any other possibility I am missing, or any other checks I should make?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

Last edited by TKulesa85; 09-20-2019 at 08:02 AM.
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Old 11-04-2019, 09:14 PM
sheltonfilms sheltonfilms is offline
Junkyard Dog
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,901
Default Re: 1998 Ranger 2WD 2.5L Wont Start - Good Crank, Good Fuel, No Spark

Get it fixed?

If not you can disconnect the PCM connector and connect your voltmeter to pins 21 and 22 and crank to see if you get voltage. This is a 2 wire sensor not a 3 wire (hall effect) so it generates an AC signal itself, no need for the PCM to give it power.
Automotive Electronics Engineer
2000 XLT 2.5L A/T
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ckp, crankshaft, no spark, no start

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