Last rear replaced both front bearing hub assemblies along with the ABS sensors which come with them anyway. 5 K miles on new bearings.

This spring I did a full front brake job rotors, ceramic pads and new calipers. One was sticking and was original calipers so I just installed all new. I need to do a rear brake job. I have all the parts and pieces but need to find the time.

Recently, I have noticed that the ABS pump will activate when I am slowly turning left like in a parking lot and I touch the brake. It does not do it straight or turning right or when I am at speed going down the road. The ABS light does not come on, yet. Not sure if I am generating codes. The brakes work great, pedal is good and no mush. The old girl stops on a dime.

Could it be the rear brakes are worn enough to cause this? Not sure what to chase after next. If I had not already installed new sensors in the front I would be looking at them hot and heavy. I am thinking of the rear sensor that goes into the rear axle as that is original. Any thoughts?

Thanx.

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2005 Ranger FX/4 4.0 Auto. 160K.

Ceramic Pads, Energy Suspension Polyurethane Sway links and bushings. OHC. Third Brake Light Directionals. KYB Shocks. Dipped and Blacked Out.

Acme Projectors with Morimoto XB35 Ballast and Morimoto XB35 5500K Bulbs.

The only way the abs is going to activate and not throw a code is if the system "thinks" one wheel has stopped and is skidding. The simple way to diagnose this would be with a scanner that can read the wheel speed sensors. Drive until it does it and see which sensor is reading 0mph or significantly lower than the others.

Without a scanner your left to visual inspection but my first guess would be one of the new front sensors is loose, or the wire is messed up in some way and turning left causes it to loose contact with the tone ring. I can't see how the rear sensor would be the issue since its only happening on turns and the rear sensor doesn't move or get effected by turning.

Thank you. I ordered a new sensor and cable a few moments ago. Not too terrible expensive if ordered on line instead of O'Reilly's. They wanted 100 bucks including tax. That was too much.

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2005 Ranger FX/4 4.0 Auto. 160K.

Ceramic Pads, Energy Suspension Polyurethane Sway links and bushings. OHC. Third Brake Light Directionals. KYB Shocks. Dipped and Blacked Out.

Acme Projectors with Morimoto XB35 Ballast and Morimoto XB35 5500K Bulbs.

***UPDATE*** For anyone that cares.

Finally got to the rear brakes today. New everything. Brake Cylinders were not leaking but rusty as hell and did not look to be working properly. Everything new, drums rust proofed and brakes work great.

After testing about 10 times I could not replicate the ABS issue with the wheels turned left. No trouble before replicating the issue right in my driveway. So, we shall see.

BTW, the truck now stops as well as a Ranger FX/4 is capable of doing. Happy day for Blackie. She is pleased.

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2005 Ranger FX/4 4.0 Auto. 160K.

Ceramic Pads, Energy Suspension Polyurethane Sway links and bushings. OHC. Third Brake Light Directionals. KYB Shocks. Dipped and Blacked Out.

Acme Projectors with Morimoto XB35 Ballast and Morimoto XB35 5500K Bulbs.

Did the problem ever come back?

Yes, it did just like a bad habit, when you think you kicked it, back it comes.

I need to pull the wheel and check the sensor on the drivers side. I changed the ball joint and checked everything on the passenger side and the sensor had grease all over it and figgered that was finally it. Nope.

After checking the drivers side sensor I am plum out of ideas. Gotta bite the bullet, find someone with a reader and have them check things out I guess.

On the plus side it only does it going slow in a parking lot or driveway, not a highway speed, thus I've been living with it for so long.

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2005 Ranger FX/4 4.0 Auto. 160K.

Ceramic Pads, Energy Suspension Polyurethane Sway links and bushings. OHC. Third Brake Light Directionals. KYB Shocks. Dipped and Blacked Out.

Acme Projectors with Morimoto XB35 Ballast and Morimoto XB35 5500K Bulbs.

My idea is based on what happened to my 2010 ford ranger. In that truck running one tire that has a different rolling circumference would trigger traction control-antilock issues. On my truck 1 inch would cause problems.

Not sure where I read it, but this was a common issue and it said replace left front wheel sensor. I think that may be only for 2wd though.