I have owned three Rangers w/ frt disc brakes, a '99, an '01, and now driving a 2011. Brake Rotors always seem to get warped (pulsation thru pedal) after about 20,000 miles, or basically about part way through the pad life. I just live w/ it and when pulsation just gets too heavy then I change out the rotors.

Can anyone recomend rotors that don't warp? I inquired at the dealer about OEM rotors at one point and they were like 3X the cost of aftermarket replacement. That doesn't necesarily mean they will last w/o warping. But thinking OEM from the dealer maybe just might last longer.

So do I just figure w/ all the aftermarket mfgrs using chinese (cheap low quality) suppliers that I just just figure to replace rotors at 2X the rate of pads? Or bite the bullet and buy the OEM rotors from the dealer and stop whining?

If you have had good long life from rotors that haven't warped post up the mfgr, part no, & the name of retailer you bought the rotors from.

If heard that over-torquing the lugs may contribute to the problem. So when I rotate tires the lugs are torqued to 94 Lb-in and if it goes into sevice note to tech asks for hand torquing of lugs to book spec 94 lb-in. And I bring my torque wrench and check in the lot before driving off. Doesn't seem to incr rotor life.

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2011 Ranger XLT 4-Door
4.0L A/T, 2WD
Former owner of both 1999 & 2001 3.0 Rangers

I have had pretty good luck replacing the calipers with rebuilds and using ceramic pads with standard rotors.Sticky calipers and sticky floating pins can cause warp.

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barneycat11 2006 FX4

Uneven or over tightening lug nuts will warp the rotors. Any rotor can warp so buy a torque wrench and a breaker bar.

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mehhhh sticky pins and slides contributes more so to brake wear, mostly uneven or pulling issues and its effects on the rotors warping is minimal if not rare.

And although we've all had that one dipshit at a tireshop use every ounce of retard strength possible to rape that lugnut all the way onto our lug-centric wheels like the village cabron he may be.. wheels with TQ sticks are used exclusively at about 90% of all tire stores if they've been in business for 3-5 yrs or better. Pretty hard to warp a rotor hat even with an impact considering half of the impacts unless running over 100psi have a hard enough time getting a lug off let alone on that tight.


Some of it is related to your driving habits too and when combined with inexpensive quality [AKA cheap units] you really have things counting against you..

So without being insulting what I mean is the lesser quality often depicted in cheaper pricing/runabout brands [although more expensive products ALSO doesn't necessarily mean better either, brands do matter more so]. But you have an automatic likely. The cheaper rotors are thinner, in fact they're usually so much so that often they are only turn-able once if at all. So while you may be a more spirited or aggressive driver, long time or hard breaking and at the light you're sitting there with your foot on the brake with HOT pads cooking the rotor the entire time. Repeated often all day in day to day grinds especially more in-town traffic you will start to see this being a reality above the other comments.

Five years now I've had my 4.0L, rolling 33's, nearly 600-820 lbs in the bed at all times with necessary gear, PLUS a 290lb Flip-Pac unit on the back for at least three of those years. I've bought a stock set of rotors off Rockauto.com and I've changed out the frt brakes once in those 3 years; rears due to going from 9" drums to 10.25" drums only but complete from hardware to wheel cylinders.

As someone who use to autocross on a track for 12 years or so I love the corners more than anything. So although I don't beat on my truck in anticipation of breaking anything cause then I have to fix it rather than chase down new hardware or gear I want. I can still be hard on my truck; roadrage is real !

MY SUGGESTION - What you spent on three sets of rotors was it now? you could have bought one good set of stockers.

- DO replace the rotors, invest in a good set of performance street pads like Hawk or EBC, doesnt have to be crazy track use compounds, street is fine.
- DO make sure you replace your hardware (guide pins) and clean out the existing grease and RE-grease the new ones for full surety and peace of mind.
- DO check your brake lines too, mine look good but I replaced mine due to cracking dry rubber. A panic stop can burst a soft line and keep you moving rather than stopping.
- Then be mindful of your driving habits and see if what I said makes any sense to you.

I bet you'll notice some changes.

OH, one more thing to check. Double check your rear brake adjustment and balance between the front and rear. If your rears need replacing too and their not providing that 30-35% share of the work you may be OVER compensating with the front brakes again causing MORE HEAT build up.

Let us know

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