Trying to knock out shifter pins?

MaDMaXX · #1 09-10-2017, 08:17 PM

I'm replacing the shifter bushings in my 5 speed, but i got to the part where you knock back the pins, and they seem to be stuck, is there a specific way to get them out?

Also curious if anyone knows how many bushings/washers/wavy washers should really be in there?

EaOutlaw1969 · #2 09-11-2017, 02:29 AM

Your lower bushing looks good still, you could and should just leave it alone.

As far as the spring washers that may take some experimenting you want the shifter tight enough to get rid of any play but the shifter needs to spring back to the neutral position.

I know when I used both washers and both new bushings my shifter was too tight. I think I only needed one washer and both new bushings

To get my pins out I used my heat gun,a nice drift pin punch, some aluminum foil and a small socket a medium size ball peen hammer.

First I stuffed the hole with foil to prevent anything from falling in the transmission I used my heat gun with a pin point tip on it to heat the aluminum slightly, I slide my small socket over the pin and my drift pin punch in the hole of the socket to prevent the punch from sliding off the pin. Then I beat the crap out of my punch and watched the pin slowly start to move and was able to remove the socket and just use the hammer and punch to remove it the rest of the way.

The new pins that came with the kit were too small for a tight fit in the transmission so I cleaned the few nicks on the pins from tapping them out and rotated the slightly damaged area downward to prevent my shifter grinding on these spots.

Putting the old pins in the freezer for a little while will make them easier to install .

One warning that lower bushing may be very brittle and could crumble and fall in the transmission while trying to fill the hole.

When I did my bushing I saw the bushing just like you see yours, I stuffed the hole with foil like I mentioned removed the pins carefully removed the foil then I could not find the bushing anywhere not even the slightest sign of it in or around the shifter forks.

Yes my bushing could have came out when I removed the foil and fell on top of the transmission somewhere yet in the back of my mind I think it is in pieces somewhere inside my transmission but I will never know.

Btw in the past when using a Motorcraft OEM kit I was normally able to use both new bushings and washers I think the aftermarket kits are just a little different in size.

tomboy · #3 09-11-2017, 04:22 AM

No need to knock the pins out, the bushings are flexible, use a small flat screwdriver to bend it over, then pull it out. Put the new one in the same way.

MaDMaXX · #4 09-11-2017, 12:36 PM

The guide i found states how many flat washers (i don't think i have any) how many wavy washers should be in there, including the order - technically, there should be a wavy washer and a flat washer underneath that lower bushing, i will guess there is neither, i don't think i have any flat washers.

Order from top to bottom = wavy washer, flat washer, bushing, bushing, flat washer, then wavy washer.

My Dorman kit does have two new wavy washers and two new bushings, 2 new pins, top cap and a smaller rubber "cap" that i don't see where it could go.

Thanks for the tip to get the pins out, but i can't see me being able to manage that specific technique

I did have a poke around at that lower bushing as the daylight faded, but i wasn't convinced enough to pry it out, i guess if the new one is pliable enough, i might be able to place it in there by bending it, but not the washers.

CalebJ · #5 09-11-2017, 01:48 PM

Just thinking aloud, but could you squeeze the pins outwards using channel locks? Sorry, it's been a while since I had to stare at the bushings on one of these.

MaDMaXX · #6 09-11-2017, 01:52 PM

It doesn't really look that way - they seem to be almost welded in.

I just pushed the lower bushing down and confirmed it's too stiff to pull out safely, or indeed the new one in afterwards - it springs back, so there is a wavy washer under the current one.

Whilst i have yet to button it all back up, i did just put the new upper bushing on along with the new wavy washer on top, it doesn't clip to the bushing like the old one did.
I can't see any flat washers in any of the old assembly, nor are there any in the new kit (Dorman) they're supposed to go between the nylon bushing and the wavy washer, so i'm wondering if they decided they were unneeded? There is also only one wavy washer in the kit, so i obviously would have had to re-use one of the wavy washers even if i could get the pins out.

I don't really see me replacing this one upper bushing and the wavy wavy washer is going to make much difference unfortunately

CalebJ · #7 09-11-2017, 02:01 PM

Strange. They definitely come out. I've done it in the past on my old '94 Ranger and Explorer.

MaDMaXX · #8 09-11-2017, 03:09 PM

I threw it all back together again, i'm not entirely certain if it feels any better or not, possibly.....

Here's the issue, sorry about the sound, it's very quiet, i don't have any way of increasing it right now.

Here is the effect once the assembly is complete.

EaOutlaw1969 · #9 09-11-2017, 06:43 PM

It looks like you have too many washers.

I have seen mechanics and diy owners do crazy thing to these shifters.

If both your bushings top and bottom were there and in good shape yet it was hard to get in gear the shifter may not be your issue.

Now that you have one or two new bushings in it with more washers than it came with originally the shifter will not return to neutral position.

I would remove any washers that came with the kit and only use what was intere to start with. This should get the shifter returning to neutral.

If you still find it hard to get it in gear when driving what does it do with the engine off?

With the engine off and your foot on or off the clutch the gears should shift easily try them all.

If they do shift good with the engine off but not when it is running you may have a clutch issue.

I have seen these transmission with wore out lower bushings and people take the upper bushing and install it in the lower spot without a upper bushing to save amtrip to the parts store.

My point is the shifter in these trucks are pretty forgiving the synchronizes and clutch master and slave cylinders are not so forgiving.

If you have air in the master or slave cylinder it will be hard to shift.

If the gears have been ground all to hell and back from air in the clutch release system your synchronizers will suffer severely.

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If you really want it right with all the correct washers you will have to source a Motorcraft kit.

Or just pay up for a Hurst shifter and be done with a unreliable shifter.

MaDMaXX · #10 09-11-2017, 07:14 PM

I wondered about the too many washers part, though do you know if that only affects pushing the shifter in one direction? As you can see, middle to right is incredibly responsive and feels like normal.

Now, getting into gear, that wasn't mentioned, but it's funny you should mention this; first gear sometimes can really want to push back when i try and select it, sometimes it's fine, but more often than now, i'm there "persuading" it and gently wiggling/hoping for it to allow me into the synchros.

I can select all gears without the engine running about as sucesfully as it is in other transmissions.

When i tested the fluid in the brake reservoir it's showing water and really in need of flushing, so i'll be doing that.

The clutch reservoir looks filthy..... so yeah, got to look how to do that.

MaDMaXX · #11 09-11-2017, 08:11 PM

Quick update, ran out and removed the top wavy washer, neutral to the left is now smooth and returns normally, even with the whole shifter assembled - it's no where near as positive as returning from the right, but it returns, thanks