I've had an ABS warning light on my Ranger since I bought it, and the fix turned out to be surprisingly easy. I figured I'd document how I diagnosed it and how to fix it. Most of this has been covered elsewhere, but I wanted to provide detailed instructions for the 1996 model.

First, you have to find what the error code is. On my 1996 Ranger, this isn't communicated via the OBD port, but instead a connector under the passenger-side kick panel. Just remove the single screw there, pull the panel out, and the connector should be right there. On older models, it might be under the driver side dash.

The connector has two sides: one with a red wire and another with an orange and black wire. Pull the connector apart, put your key in the ignition, and turn it on, but don't crank it. Now, you want to ground the orange/black wire for a couple of seconds. Don't ground the red wire or you'll apparently blow a fuse. I just used a multimeter lead to ground the wire — there's a grounding bolt nearby, which makes that easy.



If you've done this correctly, the ABS light on your dash will begin to flash: several short flashes and one long flash. It will continue to do this until you turn the truck off. Count the flashes, including the long one, and that's your error code. Be sure to count multiple times to make sure you have the count right.

I got error 12, which in essence says that the brake fluid level is low. Pop the hood and check your master cylinder. If the fluid level is good, which mine was, then either the float valve is stuck or the sensor is acting up (I think it's technically a switch, but for all intents and purposes, it acts as a sensor).

Wipe off the brake fluid cap, open it up and make sure the float valve inside rises back up after being compressed. If it does, that leaves the sensor.

A common problem with the sensor is that a wire works loose in the connector. Pull at them to make sure they're tight. Mine were, so the problem lies elsewhere.

I couldn't figure out how to disconnect the sensor connector, but there's an easy way to bypass it. Take a paperclip, bend it into a tight "U" shape, and tape the bend to provide insulation. Insert both leads of your jumper into the COLORED wire connectors on the master cylinder — not the black ground wire. Put them on top of the wires inside the connector so they'll maintain a better connection. (I placed them under the wires in the picture below so you can see the wire colors.)



What this does is connect the two leads of the sensor so that it gets a good reading and turns the ABS back on. Of course, you should keep an eye on your brake fluid level to make sure it's not too low (but you should do this anyway).

Now, turn on your ignition and the ABS light should turn off. If it works, you can turn the ignition off and trim the jumper leads so as little bare metal is as exposed as possible. Whenever you add brake fluid, I recommend taking the jumper off so you don't get brake fluid on the leads and possibly cause a fire.

You can go in later and clean or change the sensor, but this is an easy, nearly free way to get your ABS working again.

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1996 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3L Automatic 2WD Reg. Cab

My code 12 was the black wire in the connector was loose. I used a mirror and a small screw screw drive to un-clip the connector. I ordered a replacement. Part # WVE 1P1502 for a 94 Ranger on Rockauto $11.94
The yellow ABS light has not returned.

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'95 XLT 3.0l Stick

Does shorting the ground as shown "fix" the ABS or simply turn off the dash light? That is, once shorted, does the ABS now work?