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  #1  
Old 07-01-2016, 03:05 PM
gabrielp23 gabrielp23 is offline
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Default Rear Drum Brakes

I'll be replacing my front brake pads sometime soon, and I am contemplating going ahead and doing the rear shoes as well. My question is how do I tell if the rear shoes need to be replaced? Also, if/when I replace them, I will definitely do the wheel cylinders as well, but am unsure if I should replace the drums too? I bought the truck about 1 month ago, and I'm unsure of the last time the brakes were serviced. It's a 2002 XLT 4x4 with 91k miles. Is this around the mileage that rear brakes should be serviced?

Last edited by gabrielp23; 07-01-2016 at 03:07 PM.
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  #2  
Old 07-01-2016, 03:18 PM
Mike69 Mike69 is offline
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Default Re: Rear Drum Brakes

Pull one of the drums off & look to see how much material is left on the brake shoes. Check this link out for pics. https://www.google.com/search?q=how+...Hc1aBtkQsAQIKA
Here is a link to a video;
I would not replace the drums unless they are groved from worn shoes, or are to thin. Any parts store could measure them for you. The wheel cylinders I only replace if they are leaking, it is a judgement call but be aware if they are like mine I also had to replace the brake lines because they were rusted into the wheel cylinders.
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  #3  
Old 07-01-2016, 03:47 PM
bigfisher bigfisher is offline
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At 91k the rear drums are going to be fine unless someones driven with the parking brake on. Both my Rangers had over 150k on the factory shoes. 99 had 170k before I drove with the parking brake on and burnt up the wheel cylinders so I had the dealer replace everything. 05 had the factory shoes when I sold it at 153k.
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Old 07-01-2016, 03:57 PM
djfllmn djfllmn is offline
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Originally Posted by bigfisher View Post
At 91k the rear drums are going to be fine unless someones driven with the parking brake on. Both my Rangers had over 150k on the factory shoes. 99 had 170k before I drove with the parking brake on and burnt up the wheel cylinders so I had the dealer replace everything. 05 had the factory shoes when I sold it at 153k.
I wouldn't go that far. The ones on mine were shot at 70...
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Old 07-01-2016, 04:30 PM
bigfisher bigfisher is offline
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Originally Posted by djfllmn View Post
I wouldn't go that far. The ones on mine were shot at 70...
I know for a fact both mine were original. I had service records for both.
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  #6  
Old 07-01-2016, 07:24 PM
ChasVS ChasVS is offline
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Default Re: Rear Drum Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfisher View Post
I know for a fact both mine were original. I had service records for both.
It depends on how the truck was driven. My 04 XLT had 120k when I bought it and the shoes, cylinders and drums were shot.
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  #7  
Old 07-01-2016, 07:27 PM
gabrielp23 gabrielp23 is offline
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Default Re: Rear Drum Brakes

Thanks for all the help guys. Does anyone know the maximum diameter for the drums before they're supposed to be replaced? Or does it say on the drum itself?
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Old 07-02-2016, 03:07 AM
djfllmn djfllmn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabrielp23 View Post
Thanks for all the help guys. Does anyone know the maximum diameter for the drums before they're supposed to be replaced? Or does it say on the drum itself?
it will say on the drum
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  #9  
Old 07-04-2016, 07:10 PM
gabrielp23 gabrielp23 is offline
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Default Re: Rear Drum Brakes

So I finally got a chance to take a closer look today, and this is what I found: The inside diameter of the hubs is at least 10mm less than the maximum diameter before replacement is required. The back shoes are around 4.5 mm thick. The front are around 3 mm thick. The wheel cylinders are not leaking. All springs look to be functioning properly. Based on this, do I need to replace anything? Anything else I should check? Are the rear shoes supposed to be thicker than the front?
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  #10  
Old 07-04-2016, 07:48 PM
cowboybilly9mile cowboybilly9mile is offline
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Default Re: Rear Drum Brakes

^^^^ If your pic was just a bit smaller I could see it so much better.

IMO, here's the deal. I don't know off the top of my head what the min thickness is, but I do know after rolling two new Rangers that the lining material for the rear shoes loves to grab and lock wheel rotation when the vehicle has been sitting outside in the rain or high humidity for the day. It happens so fast that the ABS can't respond. That annoyance right there in itself, is reason to get rid of the shitty OEM shoes and replace with another brand. FWIW and over the years I've used Raybestos on other vehicles; what big mistake on the Ranger. After a real bad experience it was determined that Wagner everything from Rockauto (best price) was the way to go. Your call on the hardware, I regard it as cheap and worth replacing, especially since the original brake parts had 109K on them. As for lining material life......the other new Ranger I bought had 182K on the original rear shoes and there was more than 50% left. Fronts on that one went 129K. I'd also suggest that you turn your OEM drums and leave the cheapo aftermarket chinkanese ones for people who opt to not raise but rather, to lower the bar.
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Last edited by cowboybilly9mile; 07-04-2016 at 07:52 PM.
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  #11  
Old 07-05-2016, 12:06 AM
NewShockerGuy NewShockerGuy is offline
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Default Re: Rear Drum Brakes

Dude just replace the shoes... you are doing the fronts, replace the rear. The rear shoes are so cheap. I think I paid $25 for my Raybestos professional grade. Spring kit is about 2-3 bucks so at around $30 you can have new shoes that you don't have to worry about.

When I did my rear drum brakes I bought new shoes, cylinders, spring kit and drums and I think total cost was less than $110, the majority of the cost was the actual drums themselves and I only replaced them because it didn't look like they ever replaced from the lift of the truck.

-Nigel
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  #12  
Old 07-05-2016, 10:27 AM
ChasVS ChasVS is offline
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Default Re: Rear Drum Brakes

Best Replace the shoes as a minimum. If you can swing it, it makes sense to replace cylinders and drums as well. Then you have a complete new set to go with your fronts!
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  #13  
Old 07-06-2016, 12:43 PM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Default Re: Rear Drum Brakes

I only replace the WC if they are leaking. I would recommend pumping all new fluid through the 4 lines. Sometimes the bleeder break off then you would replace the WC.. The pads are different thicknesses. At 3mm you're probably ok for a little while. I bet anything the rear ebrake cables are trashed if original. Bad cables cause all kinds of havoc, especially in cold and rain.

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  #14  
Old 08-29-2016, 05:02 PM
ranger5572 ranger5572 is offline
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Default Re: Rear Drum Brakes

My rear driver's side wheel was making a scraping noise every now and again. After hours of soaking the drum in penetrating oil the drum finally came off to reveal that the ebrake cable was gone, 2 springs were broken, the WC was so corroded that the rubber shoes looked swollen around the edges. That's how I knew to change my rear brakes. I did a full rebuild (minus the WC cause it wasnt leaking, just rusty). What you do to one side you do to the other. Ive got two fresh rear drum brake systems.....probably should have replaced the WC since I had it all torn down. Would have taken another hour at best. Too late.
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  #15  
Old 08-30-2016, 06:00 PM
nelbur nelbur is offline
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Default Re: Rear Drum Brakes

If they are working well, I recommend that you leave them alone. If you do not have experience with brake shoe work, you are fairly likely to screw something up. New shoes can have a tendency to be grabby, and aftermarket shoes are often riveted which can take out your drums if you are not careful. Then again, everyone should know how to work on self adjusting drum brakes, so have at it.
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