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  #1  
Old 07-13-2015, 08:03 PM
Bxnanaz Bxnanaz is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 24
Default Reccomendations?

Been browsing this site for about 9 months now and finally decided to post. First of all, thanks to all of the helpful tips and tutorials that everyone has contributed.

I bought an 'O2 Ranger XLT 2.3 5 Speed with 130,000 miles 9 months ago. Since then, I've put about 8,000 miles on it and done the following things:
-Typical PM (oil, air filter, Etc)
-Ran several bottles of Lucas Fuel Injector Cleaner
-Ran a bottle of Seafoam through intake
-New 235x75 tires
-Cleaned MAF
-Changed plugs and wires
-Changed Fuel pump, regulator, and filter
-Changed transmission fluid

The truck is runs perfect and averages 25 to the gallon, but I'm still looking for things to do to it. Any tips on things I can do to help increase performance/overall satisfactory with it?
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  #2  
Old 07-13-2015, 09:06 PM
Grampybox Grampybox is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 934
Default Re: Reccomendations?

Beginners threads of interest
And welcome
__________________
Black '98 XLT 4.0 liter, super/extended cab, 4X4, 5 speed manual

*Mods & Pseudo Mods*
Sony head unit, Expo OHC, Uniden CB, 16" Wheels from a 2002 Expo Sport Trac/255-0R16 tires
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  #3  
Old 07-14-2015, 12:15 AM
GSF1200S GSF1200S is offline
Wrist Twister
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 995
Default Re: Reccomendations?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bxnanaz View Post
Been browsing this site for about 9 months now and finally decided to post. First of all, thanks to all of the helpful tips and tutorials that everyone has contributed.

I bought an 'O2 Ranger XLT 2.3 5 Speed with 130,000 miles 9 months ago. Since then, I've put about 8,000 miles on it and done the following things:
-Typical PM (oil, air filter, Etc)
-Ran several bottles of Lucas Fuel Injector Cleaner
-Ran a bottle of Seafoam through intake
-New 235x75 tires
-Cleaned MAF
-Changed plugs and wires
-Changed Fuel pump, regulator, and filter
-Changed transmission fluid

The truck is runs perfect and averages 25 to the gallon, but I'm still looking for things to do to it. Any tips on things I can do to help increase performance/overall satisfactory with it?
If its the gold truck in your pic, I have the exact same truck except its blue

Theyre good trucks, but the 01-03 duratec 2.3l setup has one achilles
heel: the intake manifold runner control. Its a crap design, and it can RUIN your engine. Anyone buying an 01-03 duratec should at least check and preferably replace the intake manifold (or repair it if funds are real tight).

The manifold likes to fail in three ways:
1) A plug on the forward side of the manifold behind the power steering bracket likes to blow out causing a massive vacuum leak
2) The arm and socket on the IMRC slave made entirely of plastic wears out causing the IMRC system to fail throwing a code and hurting performance below 3krpm (assuming 3 doesnt happen in a bad way)
3) Butterflies made entirely of plastic rotating back and forth in the plastic manifold get lose and clacky and can seize. When they seize, it can either be open or closed. The butterflies are spring loaded to fail open and while this will trigger a code, it wont hurt the engine. If it fails shut however, it can choke the engine of air causing the fuel from the injectors to wash out the cylinder destroying the rings and thus ending the engine.

Do not delay on this time bomb. All 01-03 duratecs have this problem and it needs to be addressed. Its not a big deal if you just decide to replace the intake manifold every 80k miles or so. Since most people get about 300k out of the motor/truck and since most people buy with ~100k-150k, thats only 2-3 manifolds (total bullshit)

Some other things to do:
1) change the rear diff fluid. Most neglected maintenance item on any truck. The open 7.5 rear end is fine for this truck, but it doesnt always tolerate poor maintenance as well as say an 8.8 rear end which seem to last forever
2) Get ready for the clutch slave/clutch to go. You have anywhere between 0 and 60k miles before the friction disc starts to slip or the slave fails. You can try and prolong the slaves life by replacing the fluid (have assistant pour brake fluid in reservoir and let gravity bleed it out at the bellhousing bleeder for the slave).
3) Watch coolant levels closely for a while. Common things that leak at this age are the water pump, thermostat (housing cracks), and the heater control valve (get only motorcraft- trust me all the parts house ones leak at least for me). Depending on conditions faced a hose could leak or the radiator could leak at the seams.
4) How old is the alternator? They last anywhere from 60k to 160k depending on usage. Lots of short runs equaling 20 miles traveled places a lot more strain on the alternator than runs on the freeway for hundreds of miles.
5) Upstream o2 sensor. They tend to get lazy as they age not reporting as often as they should. You cant really tell with a voltmeter, and that wont necessarily throw a code. For the 65-75 bucks a motorcraft o2 sensor costs, you might consider replacing it. Youll prolly get that money back in gas mileage before too long. I picked up 1-2mpg just changing this guy.
6) Front suspension. Ensure shocks are giving a solid ride. Check ball joint boots for cracks exposing the ball and joint; if present, replace. Check for slop in the joints and replace if present. Check stabilizer bushings for slop. Check tie rods for slop. Check wheel bearings by putting a mechanics steth on the spindle end (with the dust cap off) and spin the wheel- any grinding instead of smooth rolling means replace; also any slop means replace.
7) Take truck to alignment shop and have them check it (its free to check at many places). You will need a camber/caster bolt kit for the upper control arm to allow adjustments to be done at most alignment shops. Im not sure if the Ford dealer has different size plates than the OEM ones to change alignment.
8) Pull battery cables and clean battery posts/cables with a battery terminal brush; get a toothbrush after, mix up a baking soda paste (little water and enough baking soda to make a paste) and clean the terminals/cables.
9) Id say check fuel pressure, but you changed the pump and filter so youre prolly fine.
10) Any codes? Post them here if so...

All I can think of atm. Im sure others will have some ideas as well. Good luck
__________________
2002 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab, 2.3L Duratec I4, 5-speed manual, 4.10 gears, ~100,000 miles
Power nothing with air conditioning; crank windows for life!
Throttle cable mod, retained accessory power mod, 2006 thermostat w/resistor mod
Headlight relay harness, Philips xtreme-vision bulbs
P235/75R15 Michelin LTX M/S2s

Last edited by GSF1200S; 07-14-2015 at 12:18 AM.
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  #4  
Old 07-14-2015, 04:02 AM
Bxnanaz Bxnanaz is offline
Liking the Ford Ranger Forum
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 24
Default Re: Reccomendations?

Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
If its the gold truck in your pic, I have the exact same truck except its blue

Theyre good trucks, but the 01-03 duratec 2.3l setup has one achilles
heel: the intake manifold runner control. Its a crap design, and it can RUIN your engine. Anyone buying an 01-03 duratec should at least check and preferably replace the intake manifold (or repair it if funds are real tight).

The manifold likes to fail in three ways:
1) A plug on the forward side of the manifold behind the power steering bracket likes to blow out causing a massive vacuum leak
2) The arm and socket on the IMRC slave made entirely of plastic wears out causing the IMRC system to fail throwing a code and hurting performance below 3krpm (assuming 3 doesnt happen in a bad way)
3) Butterflies made entirely of plastic rotating back and forth in the plastic manifold get lose and clacky and can seize. When they seize, it can either be open or closed. The butterflies are spring loaded to fail open and while this will trigger a code, it wont hurt the engine. If it fails shut however, it can choke the engine of air causing the fuel from the injectors to wash out the cylinder destroying the rings and thus ending the engine.

Do not delay on this time bomb. All 01-03 duratecs have this problem and it needs to be addressed. Its not a big deal if you just decide to replace the intake manifold every 80k miles or so. Since most people get about 300k out of the motor/truck and since most people buy with ~100k-150k, thats only 2-3 manifolds (total bullshit)

Some other things to do:
1) change the rear diff fluid. Most neglected maintenance item on any truck. The open 7.5 rear end is fine for this truck, but it doesnt always tolerate poor maintenance as well as say an 8.8 rear end which seem to last forever
2) Get ready for the clutch slave/clutch to go. You have anywhere between 0 and 60k miles before the friction disc starts to slip or the slave fails. You can try and prolong the slaves life by replacing the fluid (have assistant pour brake fluid in reservoir and let gravity bleed it out at the bellhousing bleeder for the slave).
3) Watch coolant levels closely for a while. Common things that leak at this age are the water pump, thermostat (housing cracks), and the heater control valve (get only motorcraft- trust me all the parts house ones leak at least for me). Depending on conditions faced a hose could leak or the radiator could leak at the seams.
4) How old is the alternator? They last anywhere from 60k to 160k depending on usage. Lots of short runs equaling 20 miles traveled places a lot more strain on the alternator than runs on the freeway for hundreds of miles.
5) Upstream o2 sensor. They tend to get lazy as they age not reporting as often as they should. You cant really tell with a voltmeter, and that wont necessarily throw a code. For the 65-75 bucks a motorcraft o2 sensor costs, you might consider replacing it. Youll prolly get that money back in gas mileage before too long. I picked up 1-2mpg just changing this guy.
6) Front suspension. Ensure shocks are giving a solid ride. Check ball joint boots for cracks exposing the ball and joint; if present, replace. Check for slop in the joints and replace if present. Check stabilizer bushings for slop. Check tie rods for slop. Check wheel bearings by putting a mechanics steth on the spindle end (with the dust cap off) and spin the wheel- any grinding instead of smooth rolling means replace; also any slop means replace.
7) Take truck to alignment shop and have them check it (its free to check at many places). You will need a camber/caster bolt kit for the upper control arm to allow adjustments to be done at most alignment shops. Im not sure if the Ford dealer has different size plates than the OEM ones to change alignment.
8) Pull battery cables and clean battery posts/cables with a battery terminal brush; get a toothbrush after, mix up a baking soda paste (little water and enough baking soda to make a paste) and clean the terminals/cables.
9) Id say check fuel pressure, but you changed the pump and filter so youre prolly fine.
10) Any codes? Post them here if so...

All I can think of atm. Im sure others will have some ideas as well. Good luck
Thanks for the the detailed response! I haven't checked for any codes, but I've been thinking of doing that. I haven't heard of the intake manifold problems, I'll have to look into that.

Have you been able to find any more that helped increase the little bit of power that our motors have?
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  #5  
Old 07-14-2015, 08:37 AM
GSF1200S GSF1200S is offline
Wrist Twister
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 995
Default Re: Reccomendations?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bxnanaz View Post
Thanks for the the detailed response! I haven't checked for any codes, but I've been thinking of doing that. I haven't heard of the intake manifold problems, I'll have to look into that.

Have you been able to find any more that helped increase the little bit of power that our motors have?
Do you have a check engine light? If so, get the codes ASAP. If you get the one with IMRC stuck closed, i wouldnt even drive it.

In terms of power, keep in mind this is a 4 cylinder extended cab- they are slow. The duratec will make power, but you have to spin it to get that power. Youve changed the air filter, so nothing wrong there. If the IMRC isnt working properly, youll lose power below 3k rpm (assuming its stuck open). Also, at 83k miles when I changed my intake manifold, the manifold was full of gunk from years of the pcv system venting into the manifold (even worse about the IMRC system is it gives crap a place to collect at the butterflies); changing it I noticed an increase in power.

You will probably notice an increase in power changing the coil pack with a motorcraft unit. Ive seen plenty of coil packs giving problems by 150k, but it depends a lot on the type of miles. If you have misfire codes, this is probably where your problem is (since youve replaced plugs and wires, fuel pump and fuel filter).

Beyond that, power is hard to come by. There arent many places you can cut weight from a Ranger. Your gearing in the rear is already 4.10 because its an extended cab. The airbox flows more than enough air for the 2.3l, and its actually a good design pulling cold air from outside the engine compartment; typical "high-flow" intakes will likely LESSEN horsepower due to higher ambient intake air temperature (less energy dense air and requiring the pcm to retard timing to avoid knock). If you were to get a header, hi-flow cat, and hi-flow muffler you would prolly free a few horsepower- but you would likely do so at the expense of lower rpm torque right where this engine needs all it can get (a header by itself would probably net 1-2hp if youre lucky).

Remove the mechanical fan completely, and do one of the following:
1) Get a Taurus dual electric fan assembly, some wiring, a robust relay, and a thermal switch and set it up as a replacement
2) Get a tuner chip and use it solely to set the air conditioning fan to come on when the engine hits a certain temperature.

You could add a touch more go by changing all fluids to synthetic- 5w20 full synthetic motor oil, full synthetic atf fluid in the transmission (m5od uses atf fluid instead of gear lube fyi), and 75w-90 synthetic rear end lube (instead of 75w-140 which will last longer and provide more protection in hard hauling usage, but will sap power due to its thickness). Check to make sure you have no brake drag on any wheels.

To get better felt power at freeway speeds, you can do things to increase aerodynamics. A cowl that comes down in front to direct airflow away from the tires and underbelly will cut a cleaner line through the air. Removing the mudflaps will marginally improve aerodynamics. Remove antenna or shorten it. Fold back mirrors, replace them with smaller ones, or remove them. Partial (lower) or full grill block (where temperatures allow).

In all likelihood, doing any one thing probably wont even show a noticeable increase in horsepower- you will have to do a number of them. 1 exception is the electric fan idea- plenty report that it does increase power noticeably. I cant see why considering the fan clutch should hardly be turning the fan unless it gets hot enough to warrant it. Plus, any time the electric fan comes on, it saps engine horsepower via the alternator (since alternators require more power to turn the more amperage they need to generate).

FWIW, im just giving you ideas. I havent done and wont do most of the above I have synthetics, but other than that my truck is bone stock and will stay that way.
__________________
2002 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab, 2.3L Duratec I4, 5-speed manual, 4.10 gears, ~100,000 miles
Power nothing with air conditioning; crank windows for life!
Throttle cable mod, retained accessory power mod, 2006 thermostat w/resistor mod
Headlight relay harness, Philips xtreme-vision bulbs
P235/75R15 Michelin LTX M/S2s
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  #6  
Old 07-14-2015, 10:08 AM
Bxnanaz Bxnanaz is offline
Liking the Ford Ranger Forum
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 24
Default Re: Reccomendations?

Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
Do you have a check engine light? If so, get the codes ASAP. If you get the one with IMRC stuck closed, i wouldnt even drive it.

In terms of power, keep in mind this is a 4 cylinder extended cab- they are slow. The duratec will make power, but you have to spin it to get that power. Youve changed the air filter, so nothing wrong there. If the IMRC isnt working properly, youll lose power below 3k rpm (assuming its stuck open). Also, at 83k miles when I changed my intake manifold, the manifold was full of gunk from years of the pcv system venting into the manifold (even worse about the IMRC system is it gives crap a place to collect at the butterflies); changing it I noticed an increase in power.

You will probably notice an increase in power changing the coil pack with a motorcraft unit. Ive seen plenty of coil packs giving problems by 150k, but it depends a lot on the type of miles. If you have misfire codes, this is probably where your problem is (since youve replaced plugs and wires, fuel pump and fuel filter).

Beyond that, power is hard to come by. There arent many places you can cut weight from a Ranger. Your gearing in the rear is already 4.10 because its an extended cab. The airbox flows more than enough air for the 2.3l, and its actually a good design pulling cold air from outside the engine compartment; typical "high-flow" intakes will likely LESSEN horsepower due to higher ambient intake air temperature (less energy dense air and requiring the pcm to retard timing to avoid knock). If you were to get a header, hi-flow cat, and hi-flow muffler you would prolly free a few horsepower- but you would likely do so at the expense of lower rpm torque right where this engine needs all it can get (a header by itself would probably net 1-2hp if youre lucky).

Remove the mechanical fan completely, and do one of the following:
1) Get a Taurus dual electric fan assembly, some wiring, a robust relay, and a thermal switch and set it up as a replacement
2) Get a tuner chip and use it solely to set the air conditioning fan to come on when the engine hits a certain temperature.

You could add a touch more go by changing all fluids to synthetic- 5w20 full synthetic motor oil, full synthetic atf fluid in the transmission (m5od uses atf fluid instead of gear lube fyi), and 75w-90 synthetic rear end lube (instead of 75w-140 which will last longer and provide more protection in hard hauling usage, but will sap power due to its thickness). Check to make sure you have no brake drag on any wheels.

To get better felt power at freeway speeds, you can do things to increase aerodynamics. A cowl that comes down in front to direct airflow away from the tires and underbelly will cut a cleaner line through the air. Removing the mudflaps will marginally improve aerodynamics. Remove antenna or shorten it. Fold back mirrors, replace them with smaller ones, or remove them. Partial (lower) or full grill block (where temperatures allow).

In all likelihood, doing any one thing probably wont even show a noticeable increase in horsepower- you will have to do a number of them. 1 exception is the electric fan idea- plenty report that it does increase power noticeably. I cant see why considering the fan clutch should hardly be turning the fan unless it gets hot enough to warrant it. Plus, any time the electric fan comes on, it saps engine horsepower via the alternator (since alternators require more power to turn the more amperage they need to generate).

FWIW, im just giving you ideas. I havent done and wont do most of the above I have synthetics, but other than that my truck is bone stock and will stay that way.
Thanks again for the response. I don't have a check engine light, but I was thinking of checking codes just in case.

I like all of these ideas and may try one or two, but like you, I'll keep my truck mainly stock. I'll probably just keep up with PM and run it 'til it drops!
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