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07-10-2015, 07:34 PM
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Learning to use the forums
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 1
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Is a Ranger cheap to fix
I am looking to buy a 1995 Ford Ranger. I have a very small budget so any ranger I do get will need to be fixed up. As i said I have a very small budget so are parts cheap and easy to find or expensive and hard to find. Also when looking for Rangers are there years I should not buy or a certain model or version.
Thanks,
Michael
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07-10-2015, 07:58 PM
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Here we go again!
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,107
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As far as parts it depends on where you get them:
Junkyard
Craiglists- parting out a ranger
Online:
Tasca
Rockauto
Lmc truck
Autoanything
Stylintruck
The price will also vary on name brand. Being that it is a 95 you'll need to check all fluids to be safe: transmission, oil, rear differential. If you're unsure on some things check Chrisfix on youtube. He's got a madza b3000 and has a bunch of how to videos to fix up your truck. If I've missed anything I'm sure a forum vet will chime in on it and add in the missing details
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2003 Red Danger Ranger extended cab
3.0L V6 2WD w/ Overdrive
Pioneer Radio
Sound Ordinance Amp
Diamond Audio 10" Sub
Air Box Mod
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07-11-2015, 12:38 AM
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Ford Ranger Dismantler
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 7,008
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A 2.3 or 3.0 from any year will be great and reliable. The 2.3 gets great gas mileage, in fact, the best mileage in a mid-size truck for its era.
The 1983 Ranger was equipped with a 2.0L 4 cylinder rated for 34 mpg.
For reliability, find a 1993-1997 with a 2.3L and manual transmission. That truck will NOT die.
For 1998-2005, try to avoid the V6's. (3.0 and 4.0) since they had a cam synchronizer issue (3.0) and a timing chain issue (4.0) both were in the early 2000's. They had a stroked version of the 2.3 for 1998-2001.5 at 2.5L SOHC and is also pretty reliable as well.
For 2006+ any Ranger for any drivetrain will be reliable but not necessarily cheap to buy the truck. The 4 cylinder is great because it has the same cooling power, same intake and drivetrain as the V6 brothers.
As far as repairing and putting lifts on, very cheap.
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2007 Regular Cab - 2.3 DOHC - 5 Speed Auto - 4.10 Gears - Maxtrac 7" Lift - Fiberwerx 3" Fenders - Bilstein 5100 Series - 15x10 Ultra 164's - 35x12.50x15 Red Letters - Custom dents
Quote:
Originally Posted by guell
People like him make me believe that birth control needs to be put in the public water supply
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07-11-2015, 02:00 AM
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Ford Ranger Driver
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 8,818
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There is no cam sync issue. It is a preventive maintenance part. Replace every 80000 with Motorcraft, no issue.
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07-11-2015, 10:01 AM
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Ford Ranger Dismantler
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 7,008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLH
There is no cam sync issue. It is a preventive maintenance part. Replace every 80000 with Motorcraft, no issue.
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Don't replace every 80,000, then lose oil pressure = engine blown
Cam sync issue.
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2007 Regular Cab - 2.3 DOHC - 5 Speed Auto - 4.10 Gears - Maxtrac 7" Lift - Fiberwerx 3" Fenders - Bilstein 5100 Series - 15x10 Ultra 164's - 35x12.50x15 Red Letters - Custom dents
Quote:
Originally Posted by guell
People like him make me believe that birth control needs to be put in the public water supply
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07-11-2015, 12:04 PM
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Ford Ranger Driver
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyler46
A 2.3 or 3.0 from any year will be great and reliable. The 2.3 gets great gas mileage, in fact, the best mileage in a mid-size truck for its era. The 1983 Ranger was equipped with a 2.0L 4 cylinder rated for 34 mpg. For reliability, find a 1993-1997 with a 2.3L and manual transmission. That truck will NOT die. For 1998-2005, try to avoid the V6's. (3.0 and 4.0) since they had a cam synchronizer issue (3.0) and a timing chain issue (4.0) both were in the early 2000's. They had a stroked version of the 2.3 for 1998-2001.5 at 2.5L SOHC and is also pretty reliable as well. For 2006+ any Ranger for any drivetrain will be reliable but not necessarily cheap to buy the truck. The 4 cylinder is great because it has the same cooling power, same intake and drivetrain as the V6 brothers. As far as repairing and putting lifts on, very cheap.
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4.0 SOHC is safe from late 2002 on.
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07-11-2015, 12:43 PM
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Ford Ranger Driver
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1,313
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I've owned 5 rangers, one 4.0(1994) 3, 2.3l(93-95). And on 3.0(2002) the 2.3 Is a very very gutless motor, but will always make the trip and never fail you, they run forever! My 2002 3.0 has been reliable so far I put 7k miles on it and has yet to fail me, my 4.0 had some issues but never left me stranded and had great power, I vote for the 93-97 2.3l and a 5 speed, parts are cheap and easy to find, and there easily a 300k motor, slow but they will get you there. Just my 2 cents
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1996 f150 4x4 ext cab, Eddie Bauer edition, 5.8l auto, 3.55 gears and 31/10.5/15
My babe/DD-1995 2.3l 5speed 4x4, long bed, 4.10 open dif, "red rocket" 31/10.5/15s good years
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07-11-2015, 07:57 PM
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Banned
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 195
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Re: Is a Ranger cheap to fix
I bought a well used '95 2.3 with 145,000 miles on it. Had been a painter's or dry waller's work truck- metal cap with ladder racks, and steering wheel had some white paint or primer smudges on it (cleaned up with a plastic scrubber pad for dishes).
And it was totally GUTLESS! Could floor it and pray I'd get up to merging speed coming from an on ramp. Never got more than 22 MPG highway, which I suppose is pretty good for a truck (not better than my 1978 VW Westfalia camper bus, which got 23 highway with cooler plugs in it).
Also had an '85 with the 2.0, 4+ OD manual, with a ton of miles on it (odometer read 90K, but had probable been roller over). Had been a stripper model, had a heater, 2 speed wipers and rubber floor mat (not mats, I large piece of rubber that went across the floor)- did have an XLT radio and tape deck though. It was worse, truck burned a quart of oil with every tank of gas- never saw any smoke, just an oily film on the back of the truck. Cost me $90, and other than putting piece of plywood under the driver's seat between the door sill and the tranny it was OK. Rustoleum red, and had so many dents and so much rust that I didn't really worry about it when I blew a brake line taking a corner a little fast and side swipped a telephone pole, leaving my right tail light at the scene and curving out the bumper pretty badly.
Got 22-23 MPG on the highway also.
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