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  #16  
Old 02-05-2015, 04:56 PM
sheltonfilms sheltonfilms is offline
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Put your truck in neutral and try starting it
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  #17  
Old 02-05-2015, 05:08 PM
07XL 07XL is offline
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I love part throwers
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  #18  
Old 02-07-2015, 07:39 PM
pcityranger pcityranger is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheltonfilms View Post
Put your truck in neutral and try starting it
It's a manual. I took off the neutral safety switch and it looks bad. Think I found the problem.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07XL View Post
I love part throwers
First off bud, starter had a bad bendix drive on it. So it got changed. The ignition switch was 20 bucks and ten mins of time. I'm fairly certain it's the neutral safety switch after opening it up, which I should have done before but oh well. So if you don't have any helpful input, go bullshit somewhere else.
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  #19  
Old 02-07-2015, 08:54 PM
sheltonfilms sheltonfilms is offline
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Default Re: No start.

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Originally Posted by pcityranger View Post
It's a manual. I took off the neutral safety switch and it looks bad. Think I found the problem.
You don't have a neutral safety switch those are only on automatics (why I asked to put it in neutral). You should only have a reverse switch on a manual to turn the reverse lights on.

Its most likely one of 2 things. Either Fuse 21 in your fuse box in the left hand kick panel (5A by the way TAN color). Or its your clutch pedal position switch.

Which is this that is connected to your clutch pedal under your dash:


First check the fuse. If that is good you need to unplug your clutch pedal switch. and take a piece of wire and jump the white/pink wire with the solid pink wire. Then try starting. If it starts its this switch.

Let us know your results.
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  #20  
Old 02-07-2015, 09:02 PM
pcityranger pcityranger is offline
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oops thought it was called a neutral safety switch?? Here are some pics

Ok checked the fuse with a test light and no power. Fuse is good tho. So here's the tricky part. A bunch of fuses scattered aren't working. I also notice when I turn on the battery, and put the vent on, it automatically is coming out defrost and all other positions are only blowing out of defrost. So clearly the truck won't start because this fuse has no power. Why why are a bunch of random fuses not blown, but not drawing power?

I am Lost here?? A bunch of the fuses don't have power.

ANNNNND another thing, I have noticed a leak on the passenger side windshield because I have seen a drip line down the windshield in the morning. I also notice condensation on the windows in the mornings so I know a leak is somewhere but I have not a clue. Have looked at all the weather stripping, and the kick panel fuse box was wet, and dirt all under it was wet, so I know the leak is somewhere on the passenger side door, windshield area, but I DONT have a clue where.

ANND two of the fuses in the fuse box under the hood also don't have power when the key is in on position. I am stumped here.

An FYW, this truck took a crap before it rained here, I'm sure the leak does not help but I don't think it was the issue. I am lost here. I can't figure out why a bunch of random fuses would quit working, could one of the main relays under the hood be bad? How would I go about testing those?


On my last and final edit, Today when working on the truck, my battery was at 7.8 volts, clearly something was drawing power. The battery was bad, thought maybe a bad cell. I also left the key in the truck over the past couple days, not sure that would do anything. Is there a short somewhere I might be missing?
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File Type: jpg image-984121507.jpg (44.0 KB, 14 views)
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60/40 mod with a shorty console

Last edited by pcityranger; 02-07-2015 at 10:36 PM.
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  #21  
Old 02-07-2015, 11:56 PM
pcityranger pcityranger is offline
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Default Re: No start.

Okay so I took off all of the connectors that go onto the kick panel, and sure enough they were full of water and most likely causing the short and the reason random fuses weren't working. Here's the thing, the fluid was blueish, and what fluid is blue on my truck? the Window washer fluid? What's weird about that is guess what, for over a year now my passenger side nozzle has been SIGNIFICANTLY weaker which could be a leak, I never found one and just figured there was a clog. Didn't care enough to look. So I believe that maybe that fluid was leaking down the cavity onto the kick panel fuse box. IDK, this is a crazy theory. Doesn't explain why all the windows fog up as if there is an air leak, maybe both, who knows. Gonna let those prongs all dry and connect them tomorrow and see if that fixes it.
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60/40 mod with a shorty console
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  #22  
Old 02-08-2015, 02:37 PM
pcityranger pcityranger is offline
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Default Re: No start.

How come I have no power at the clutch pedal position plug?
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60/40 mod with a shorty console
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  #23  
Old 02-08-2015, 02:41 PM
sheltonfilms sheltonfilms is offline
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Default Re: No start.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pcityranger View Post
How come I have no power at the clutch pedal position plug?
You will have power when your key is in the start position. The white/black wire should show 12volts.

You need to get that leak fixed first.

While you are pin pointing that leak you need to get the smart junction box out of the truck (fuse box). It needs to be put into a bag of rice or silica gel. You do not one of the internal components to short if they haven't already.

Get the leak fixed, dry the SMJ box and then we will pick back up on what is damaged.

If its your washer fluid and you are having an issue with the passenger side washer nozzle you need to look from the tee that splits the connection to both sides to the passenger nozzle.

This nozzle will most likely only show leaks when the washer is spraying.

I wouldn't be suprised if the hvac is picking up the fluid and spraying it into the truck.

The reason your defrost are only working is because you have a vacuum leak. Check my vid below:

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Last edited by sheltonfilms; 02-08-2015 at 02:47 PM.
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  #24  
Old 02-08-2015, 03:26 PM
pcityranger pcityranger is offline
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Default Re: No start.

Working on tracing the leak. I had the key in the on position and no power from any of the pins on the clutch pedal position switch??

This damn vacuum leak now is pissing me off. Can't find that either.
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60/40 mod with a shorty console

Last edited by pcityranger; 02-08-2015 at 04:00 PM.
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  #25  
Old 02-08-2015, 06:05 PM
sheltonfilms sheltonfilms is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcityranger View Post
Working on tracing the leak. I had the key in the on position and no power from any of the pins on the clutch pedal position switch??

This damn vacuum leak now is pissing me off. Can't find that either.
Key in start not on. That fuse is only hot in start. Need someone to hold key in the start position so It doesn't spring back to ON.

Follow that video and you should find your leak. 9 times out of 10 it's either the heater control valve disconnected or the line is broken.
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  #26  
Old 02-08-2015, 06:05 PM
pcityranger pcityranger is offline
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Default Re: No start.

Well I cleaned off the clutch pedal position switch, put it on, and the truck fired up?? Not sure why I wasn't getting power from the switch before?

Edit: read your post, sorry did not know the key had to be turned as if you were trying to crank the engine.

I also put a bunch of silicone down the passenger side weather stripping which was detaching from the door. As for the AC, does it automatically default to defrost when on battery, and engine not running? All positions work accordingly when the truck was running.

Only issue I am running into now is the starter is still ticking the flywheel slightly on start ups, but it is completely random when it happens, cold or hot. Maybe I will throw some shims on this starter and see if that helps.
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60/40 mod with a shorty console
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  #27  
Old 02-08-2015, 06:08 PM
sheltonfilms sheltonfilms is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcityranger View Post
Well I cleaned off the clutch pedal position switch, put it on, and the truck fired up?? Not sure why I wasn't getting power from the switch before? I also put a bunch of silicone down the passenger side weather stripping which was detaching from the door. As for the AC, does it automatically default to defrost when on battery, and engine not running? All positions work accordingly when the truck was running.

Only issue I am running into now is the starter is still ticking the flywheel slightly on start ups, but it is completely random when it happens, cold or hot. Maybe I will throw some shims on this starter and see if that helps.
If your truck has been off for a while then the vacuum canister has bleed down. That or constantly turning the vent position knob with the car off will bleed the vacuum. The only way to build vacuum in the canister again is to start the truck.
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  #28  
Old 02-08-2015, 09:49 PM
pcityranger pcityranger is offline
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Default Re: No start.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sheltonfilms View Post
If your truck has been off for a while then the vacuum canister has bleed down. That or constantly turning the vent position knob with the car off will bleed the vacuum. The only way to build vacuum in the canister again is to start the truck.
Wow makes sense, you have been a ton of help. Any input on why the starter may still be hanging up, and where to look for leaks other than the obvious, weatherstripping and such?
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60/40 mod with a shorty console
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  #29  
Old 02-08-2015, 10:25 PM
sheltonfilms sheltonfilms is offline
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Where did you get the starter? If it is one of the big car parts stores (advance, autozone, Oreillys) you should have a lifetime warranty on it. I would take it back.

Sounds like the retraction rate of the bendix (starter drive gear) is too slow. Could be a weak spring in the starter.

On my wife's Mazda I bought 2 remans and had this issue. I ended up rebuilding her original starter.

There are a few places to look for leaks.

Windshield. If you remove the defrost trim panel (black strip across front of dash) you can see a good portion under the windshield.

HVAC. Your blower motor could be sucking in leaking washer fluid. Could be why your windows are fogging, similar to leaking heater core.

Drain holes are clogged. There are holes in the plastic in front of your front mudflaps. Make sure they are not clogged.

Check this link out: I would say this is your problem.

Wet floor, sloshing sound, no drainage from the wiper cowl --> fix
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  #30  
Old 02-08-2015, 10:51 PM
pcityranger pcityranger is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheltonfilms View Post
Where did you get the starter? If it is one of the big car parts stores (advance, autozone, Oreillys) you should have a lifetime warranty on it. I would take it back. Sounds like the retraction rate of the bendix (starter drive gear) is too slow. Could be a weak spring in the starter. On my wife's Mazda I bought 2 remans and had this issue. I ended up rebuilding her original starter. There are a few places to look for leaks. Windshield. If you remove the defrost trim panel (black strip across front of dash) you can see a good portion under the windshield. HVAC. Your blower motor could be sucking in leaking washer fluid. Could be why your windows are fogging, similar to leaking heater core. Drain holes are clogged. There are holes in the plastic in front of your front mudflaps. Make sure they are not clogged. Check this link out: I would say this is your problem. Wet floor, sloshing sound, no drainage from the wiper cowl --> fix
I will definitely check the cowl tomorrow. I have ordered two starters from different places on line. The original motorcraft one started doing it so I replaced it but yet to cure the problem. The starter gear and flywheel are just barely ticking after startup and I confirmed this after looking at the flywheel.
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