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Old 02-16-2014, 03:04 PM
justindavis justindavis is offline
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Default radius arm bushings

So, i narrowed down my clunking in thr front end to either the shocks or the radius arm bushing since ive replaced everything else in the front end . ball joints, tie rods, drag link, wheel bearings.... anyways, i had a previous thread about what the noise could be and i think its the radius arm bushings. i know how to do it, problem is, I can not get the main nut off that holds the radius bushing onto the raidus arm. its the nut that is 1 1/8 inch, ive hit it with an impact, puts about 4 foot extension on a rackets, broke the rachet....I sprayed the nut on both sides with PB blaster today and im going to let it soak in, maybe that will help. On the driver side, I am afraid to apply heat becaue the fuel lines are right there, they are pretty close. the one on the passenger side should do-able with heat. finaly i figured i should come here before i break something. So, has any one else had this issue? anyone know any tricks??? i am trying to avoid getting all new radius arms.

I was thinking about maybe ordering new radius arms and cutting the old ones off if i cant get the nut loose as a last resort.

any input helps. thanks

----------

by the way, its a 1997 xlt 2.3 I-4 5 speed stick. 63k original, michigan truck
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  #2  
Old 02-16-2014, 03:31 PM
theropod theropod is offline
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Default Re: radius arm bushings

Quote:
Originally Posted by justindavis View Post
So, i narrowed down my clunking in thr front end to either the shocks or the radius arm bushing since ive replaced everything else in the front end . ball joints, tie rods, drag link, wheel bearings.... anyways, i had a previous thread about what the noise could be and i think its the radius arm bushings. i know how to do it, problem is, I can not get the main nut off that holds the radius bushing onto the raidus arm. its the nut that is 1 1/8 inch, ive hit it with an impact, puts about 4 foot extension on a rackets, broke the rachet....I sprayed the nut on both sides with PB blaster today and im going to let it soak in, maybe that will help. On the driver side, I am afraid to apply heat becaue the fuel lines are right there, they are pretty close. the one on the passenger side should do-able with heat. finaly i figured i should come here before i break something. So, has any one else had this issue? anyone know any tricks??? i am trying to avoid getting all new radius arms.

I was thinking about maybe ordering new radius arms and cutting the old ones off if i cant get the nut loose as a last resort.

any input helps. thanks

----------

by the way, its a 1997 xlt 2.3 I-4 5 speed stick. 63k original, michigan truck
When I replaced mine I used a long 1/2" breaker bar with a 3' pipe over the end of the bar to gain leverage and torque. I didn't care if I broke the socket as it was a name brand that would be replaced if it gave out. I do remember how tight/stuck the nuts were and they were a beach. I wouldn't have attempted that with a ratchet. I imagine I applied several hundred pounds of torque to the nuts.

If you end up heating the nut the gas lines shouldn't be an issue, just apply the heat to the nut alone and don't let the heat transfer into the frame/hangers. If you can heat just the nut it should grow enough to come free.

Good luck.

R
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1992 Ranger 4X4 5 speed 2.3, 2008 Escape 4WD 3.0, 1995 Thunderbird LX 4.6, 1937 Allis Chalmers B model
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  #3  
Old 02-16-2014, 03:56 PM
justindavis justindavis is offline
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Default Re: radius arm bushings

its looking like that is my best bet. ill go with the heat on wednesday, also gonna spray and respray the nuts with pb blaster/liquid wrench/ troll blood.

thanks ill let you know how it goes
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  #4  
Old 02-16-2014, 04:14 PM
cvar cvar is offline
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Default Re: radius arm bushings

x2

FYI, see http://imgur.com/a/BkzJc
Yup, PB-Blaster and a 3-foot cheater bar did the trick, for me. A sheet metal shield would protect the fuel lines from torch flames.
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Old 02-16-2014, 04:30 PM
justindavis justindavis is offline
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Default Re: radius arm bushings

CVAR, did you have any issue when you put the new bolt through where the rivet used to be on the driver side? the fuel filter and bracket is right there, looks like a tight fit.
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  #6  
Old 02-16-2014, 05:30 PM
cvar cvar is offline
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Default Re: radius arm bushings

Nope, I don't recall having any access issues. You can simply remove the 1 bolt that holds the fuel filter bracket, to give you total access. Maybe I did that first? I think it's more important to get the RA cross-member installed tightly.
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Old 03-09-2014, 06:56 PM
justindavis justindavis is offline
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Default Re: radius arm bushings

thanks guys, ended up getting everyhitng out and all back together.
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