I just paid a mech to do an engine swap on my 00 ranger. It's a brand new grooms engine, long block. (I'm in very big question as far as his trust and knowledge)

1-There's a clicking noise while engine is running. First he (the mech.) said it should go away, that it's normal after putting in a new engine. Then he said something about replacing the torque (?) converter. Now he said he just needs to add lucas oil. What's the deal???

2-It came with a heater core (mine was bad). I smell coolant in the cab when my truck is running, and it seems to also be coming from the vents slightly when I turn the heat on. I've replaced it before, and it was a fun, 6hr project for me...he said he didn't have to take the dash out, that he has a special tool that goes up underneath to unscrew it and drop it out the bottom. Did he really replace the core?

3-The a/c, heat, or fan isn't blowing air at a high speed. I can turn the control on high and hear the blower motor and air as if it were blowing on high, but isn't coming out of the vents. It worked fine before I dropped it off. Is something disconnected now?

4- WHAT IS A Cam shaft stater??????? I was in a hurry to get the truck back and actually drive it, so I didn't really see this on my invoice. It says the part was $68. What is it???

Please help me!! Thank you!

I dont know what a camshaft starter is either, i just googled it and came up with that they are only for motorcycles. I doubt you put in a motorcycle engine in your rig so either we are both missing something.

As for the ticking noise, im not sure i did an engine swap on my 1999 and it didnt have that problem and i have never seen that before. I had a friend whos neon had that though and it was the oil pump failing.

Coolant smell in the cab, the only thing i can think of it either he spilled coolant in your engine bay or you have a leak somewhere. Also the Heater core might have been installed wrong. Is your truck running at normal temp and also is your coolant level at the right level?

The vents are probably not hooked up or put back in correctly.

All i can really tell you from my experiences, take it to another place have them look at it and see what they say. I dont like to say this but you might have gotten a half ass job done, thats what it seems.

What did you do for an engine swap?

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R.I.P. 1999 Ranger XLT 3.0, 206,000 stock drivetrain
-Totaled after accident 2009.10.30 with brand new engine and tranny

1998 Ranger XLT 4X4 4.0, 200,xxx stock drivetrain
-Still running like a champ

1- Total BS. There may be an short initial ticking after the FIRST startup as oil is delivered throughout the engine. If it lasts longer than that, then there is something wrong. Chances of it fixing itself are about 1000 to 1.

2- Sounds like BS to me but I'll reserve judgment since I don't know for sure.

3- The airflow may be coming out of the defroster vents - the default routing. If so, then there is probably a vacuum line disconnected, melted or pinched somewhere in the HVAC plumbing. A good place to check for vac line problems is along the passenger side of the engine near the frame rail but it could also be unplugged at the intake manifold or somewhere under the dash.

4- No such thing as a Camshaft Stater. The 3.0 and 4.0 V6s do have a "Synchronizer" which is the drive assembly for the Cam Position Sensor. A Chinese copy of the CMP/Synchronizer runs about $50~100. Genuine Ford is several times that much. The Ford part is not without its problems but it is far better than the copy.

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2003 FX4 Level II, Supercharged 5.0L V8, Headers, Duals
BW4406 manual transfer case, Aussie Locker, Torsen L/S, 4.10's
Bilstein 7100 rezzies, Cadillac/Mustang rear discs, Duff traction bars
Keypad Entry, Lock LEDs, ABS switch, sway bar discos
Heated seats, Explorer EATC, Trip Computer and consoles

Ford owners' manuals ONLINE, then click "Vehicle Basics"