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  #1  
Old 02-02-2010, 01:52 PM
2001 Ford Ranger 3.0 V6 A
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 172
Default FYI: Ford 3.0 oil leak at oil filter

Not sure if you all have seen this. I came across it while researching my leak.


Article No.
01-20-4

ENGINE - 3.0L 2V VULCAN - ENGINE OIL LEAK AT
OIL FILTER SEAL AREA - ENGINES PRODUCED AT
LIMA ENGINE PLANT 8/1/2000 THROUGH 10/10/2000
ONLY

FORD:
2001 TAURUS, RANGER

MERCURY:
2001 SABLE

ISSUE

Some vehicles equipped with the 3.0L-2V (Vulcan) engine may exhibit a engine oil leak at the oil filter mounting surface. This may be caused by machined chatter marks during production. The marks are machining lines radiating outward from the center adapter and could create a leak path. If machining marks are in a circular pattern, they are considered normal and acceptable and will not cause a oil leak. The oil leak may easily be mistaken for an oil pan leak.

ACTION

Remove oil filter and sand oil filter mounting (pad) surface. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

OIL LEAK INSPECTION PROCEDURE

1. Verify oil leak is from the oil filter mounting area. If necessary use the Fluorescent Oil Additive method to determine the leak path. Refer to the appropriate model year Workshop Manual, Engine System - General Information, Section 303-00, Engine Oil Leak-Fluorescent Oil Additive Method.

2. If the leak is from the oil filter mounting surface, continue with the following procedure. If leak is not from the oil filter, determine other leak source and repair as required.

OIL FILTER MOUNTING SURFACE REFINISHING PROCEDURE

1. Remove the starter motor to gain access to the oil filter mounting surface.

2. Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.

3. Wipe the oil filter pad (oil filter mounting/sealing surface) on the cylinder block and visually inspect the machined surface. A circular machined pattern is normal and acceptable and will not create a leak path

4. If machining lines (chatter/roughness) radiating outward from the center adapter are visible or low spots (flatness concern) is suspected, continue with the rest of the procedure. (Figure 2).

5. Remove the oil filter adapter fitting (threaded nipple). The nipple has an internal hex that should be used to minimize damage.

6. Plug the center oil filter adapter hole and the other oil inlet holes with plastic caps, rag plugs, etc.

7. Sand the filter pad using a 60 grit sandpaper with a flat block or a oscillating sander with a flat pad until radial machining lines and low spots (dull areas) are removed.

8. Carefully clean the filter pad with shop air and rinse/flush the pad with an appropriate liquid cleaner with the oil passages still plugged.

NOTE IT IS IMPORTANT TO THOROUGHLY CLEAN ALL METAL AND SANDPAPER DEBRIS FROM THE OIL FILTER PAD TO PREVENT CONTAMINATING THE ENGINE OIL THAT COULD LEAD TO ENGINE BEARING DAMAGE.

9. Remove the plastic plugs, rag plugs etc. from the oil filter adapter hole and the other oil inlet holes, and install the oil filter adapter fitting (threaded nipple). Torque to 30-40 Nm (22-30 lb-ft).

10. Lubricate the oil filter pad and oil filter seal with clean engine oil and install the new oil filter. Tighten filter 3/4 to one turn after initial seal contact.

11. Install the starter motor. Refer to Workshop Manual Section 303-06, Starting Systems, Starter Motor Removal/Installation.

12. Fill engine with new engine oil, start engine and check for oil leaks.

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME

012004A Perform Oil Leak Test 1.2 Hrs.
Diagnosis Then Follow
Procedure To Resurface
Oil Filter To Engine Block
Sealing Surface Ranger

012004B Perform Oil Leak Test 1.2 Hrs.
Diagnosis Then Follow
Procedure To Resurface
Oil Filter To Engine Block
Sealing Surface
Taurus/Sable
DEALER CODING
CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
6010 14


And here I thought this was going to be an easy fix.
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White 2001 Ford Ranger Edge - step side- ext cab - 3.0 V-6 2-WD 88k

I have determined that most mechanical / electrical challanges are directly connected to the nut that connects the steering wheel to the drivers seat.
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  #2  
Old 10-28-2013, 09:19 AM
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Posts: 30
Default Re: FYI: Ford 3.0 oil leak at oil filter

thanks this just saved me
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  #3  
Old 10-28-2013, 11:03 AM
Ford Ranger Driver
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,926
Default Re: FYI: Ford 3.0 oil leak at oil filter

Couple of questions:

a) 12 year old vehicle, why is it now leaking?

b) What brand of filter are you using when it leaks? Fram?

c) What's the linky you're using to get to TSB's or was that a repost of one?

+5 for finding it, good job!
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2004 Ranger FX4 Level II, Sonic Blue
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  #4  
Old 10-28-2013, 12:12 PM
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Default

not sure when it started but I do have a fram filter on it used them when I got the truck it set for 5 years before I got it had it for about two years

----------

a repost to it in a thread I started
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  #5  
Old 10-28-2013, 07:58 PM
Ford Ranger Driver
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,926
Default Re: FYI: Ford 3.0 oil leak at oil filter

Quote:
Originally Posted by project1 View Post
not sure when it started but I do have a fram filter on it used them when I got the truck it set for 5 years before I got it had it for about two years

----------

a repost to it in a thread I started
I used to be loyal to Fram, as in like, just shy of 30 years loyal. So when I did my second oil change on my current Ranger at 4,500 miles, I automatically used a Fram. The engine started leaking at the filter. I took it to dealer under warranty and they said it was the filter and the TSB for the filter adapter on the 4.0 would not cure the problem. Swapped out the Fram for the other new one I had. Nice, it leaks too, thanks for nothing china. Fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice, shame on me, there ain't going to be a third time.

Then I researched filters, including Fram online and looked at cutaway views and comparisons of the filter media and the materials and the construction. I learned that what used to one be a good quality brand had gone down the crapper. In fact and based on comparison of Fram, Wix (and a couple flavors of them), Motorcraft, I wouldn't use a Fram on my lawnmower. Crappy cardboard ends on the filter material vs rubber ends on all the rest, cheap rubber backflow valve vs surgical grade rubber on the rest, etc etc etc.....there really IS a quality difference. People have had Frams collapse and obstruct internally, frying engines. That won't be happening to me, ever. Live and learn, buy Motorcraft.

On edit: OHV 4.0's are known to have noisy valvetrains on startup when a Fram is attached; they are overly restrictive. Something to think about, along with how most wear on an engikne occurs on startup. Nice company!
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Last edited by cowboybilly9mile; 10-28-2013 at 08:01 PM.
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  #6  
Old 10-28-2013, 08:08 PM
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Default

what about bosh
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  #7  
Old 10-28-2013, 08:20 PM
Wow.So cobra.Very Ranger.
 
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Posts: 5,697
Default

Just use a MC filter...
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  #8  
Old 10-28-2013, 08:39 PM
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ok thanks I'll just have to trade it out then
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  #9  
Old 10-28-2013, 08:50 PM
Ford Tough
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 364
Default

I have a Bosch oil filter on my truck right now is that ok?

1993 Ford Ranger STX 4x4 4.0L 5spd manual
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  #10  
Old 10-29-2013, 10:58 AM
Ford Ranger Driver
 
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Posts: 2,926
Default Re: FYI: Ford 3.0 oil leak at oil filter

^^^ Dunno, I dug into the subject back in 2005, I do remember there were a few more brands evaluated than what I noted, I can't remember what they were but they were not Bosch, I'd remember that. I noted that Pennzoil filter = Fram and that Napa = Wix, and there were a couple of variations made to these filters. I did come to a simple conclusion, for Ford, your best bet will be a MC. Additionally and based on what I'm hearing, this is also very smart to do if you own one of the modular engines (ie, 4.6L, 5.4L).
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Last edited by cowboybilly9mile; 10-29-2013 at 11:01 AM.
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