heater problems - Page 3

clawsonj · #31 11-17-2009, 08:28 PM

so pretty much I have to buy a new ac assembly? what's the "controller" called?

FireRanger · #32 11-18-2009, 03:37 AM

Make a new thread about it and you might find out, like has been suggested to you several times now. This thread is about FryBoy5's blend door problem, not your melting temperature knob.

clawsonj · #33 11-18-2009, 10:03 AM

well maybe you shouldnt have answered me in the first place, by the way. i wont be back, youre an *******.

FireRanger · #34 11-18-2009, 01:20 PM

Haha. Yea, darn. What a loss. I answered you even though it doesn't belong here because it was a risk to life and property when your truck catches on fire. But good, I'm sure we'll all be crying in you absence.

Bighomedog11 · #35 11-20-2009, 10:34 PM

My heater wasnt working, because my blend door was broken..
And when i try to do the quick and easy mod to fix it. It would not work because the top of the door was cracked. And in most cases it wont work correctly...
So i bought this heater treater! I installed it had to do some cutting but was very easy. Once i installed it my heat works flawless!!
I highly recommend this!
http://www.heatertreater.net/

But you will have to buy it off of ebay though. But its 100% legit!

partsman3151 · #36 11-22-2009, 10:51 AM

The thread got a little side tracked, did you get an answer to the problem of power at the BCA and nothinging at the switch? I am having the same problem.

rjonesassn · #37 11-26-2011, 02:01 PM

I noticed an earlier post that talks about the blend door actuator and the HeaterTreater solution. First -- all the referenced models do not have a motor driven door. My 2000 Ranger has the manual (two cables) linkage. I have some pictures if anyone is interested. Second, I highly recommend the folks at HeaterTreater. I had ordered their fix before removing the actuator. Their response was to simply ask me to return the kit for a full refund. Can't beat that for customer care.

In my case, the problem was the heater control valve, located in the top hose. It is a vacuum activated valve and APPEARED to be working fine. Check this valve first, it is the more likely problem area and by far the earier to check. In my case, the linkage moved OK and the diaphram would hold a vacuum. This created a bit of confusion in terms of diagnosis which is why I purchased the HeaterTreater kit. When I actually examined it, the valve was stuck closed and the butterfly had broken loose from the linkage attached to the vacuum chamber. Replaced the valve, worked fine.

Lessons, look at the heater control valve first. Then check the blend door control, if there are two lines (look like wires) leading away from the actuator on top of the plenum, you have a manual door that the liklihood that it is your problem is minimal. I have heard, but can not confirm, that you must have a totally full radiator to get hot water circulation. Doesn't make much sense to me, but it is something easy to check.

Good luck....

NewShockerGuy · #38 01-15-2012, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clem

I agree with Lord of War, electrical.
As I have not had any problem with the heating/cooling system in my 02 Ranger, YET, but read everyone of these post so I will have an idea of where to start when the time does come, I have picked up a wealth of information, so here goes.
The 2000 and newer, (maybe even before that) are all fly by wire, no manual cable control, start with the fuses, they are good, did you check them all, under the hood and in the cab? Did you check the continuity of the fuses? If all is well, go to the switch on the dash, check for 12v power to the switch, if you got power there, check for 12v coming out of the switch at each position, if you got power there, go to the other end of each wire where it goes to the motor that work the door, check for a loose plug and 12v. On the rear of the control head, (where the knobs are) there are vacuum lines check for a loose, broken or leaky vacuum line there. Under the hood, check the blower motor resister, (it will be located just to the right of the blower motor) it should have 12v into it and less than 12v out when the switch on the dash is in different positions, if you don't get any power out on any one of the legs, replace it. All the resister does is controls the speed of the fan motor, so you should have found the problem by now.

Ray

My blower isn't blowing any air... it was working before but not now... I've replaced the heater control valve and the blower motor resistor and that worked and had the fan controls for about a week... now it's backing to me turning the dial on any fan position or any level position and the fans dont' turn on at all... How does one check to see if there are 12v at the switch or the back of the panel (where the knobs are)

-Nigel