i did my brakes about 10k ago and they are very inconsistent. sometimes they work real good (dont have to press hard to stop). and now like today, i had the pedal to the ground and it was hard to stop. i dont think it needs to be bleed? b/c its not the same pressure everytime. Oh, and sometimes i can feel a pulsating back against my foot when im down on the brake pedal.
any help would be great! thanks
-Luc

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2001 XLT 4x4 V6 4.0L auto
SAS'd D44 and 8.8. dual lockers, 38s, 12 bolt h1's, some other odds and ends

Sounds like a master cylinder going bad.

doesnt sound too good. wheres it at? can i replace it myself? expensive? and what does it do? lol srry for all the ?'s

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2001 XLT 4x4 V6 4.0L auto
SAS'd D44 and 8.8. dual lockers, 38s, 12 bolt h1's, some other odds and ends

The master cylinder is what the brake fluid resevore sits on top of.


Price, I wouldn't think it should be to much.

Have you tried flushing all the old fluid out with new?

um no. ive never done it before and i dont know how.
also, is there any way to check and see if my master cylinder is bad??

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2001 XLT 4x4 V6 4.0L auto
SAS'd D44 and 8.8. dual lockers, 38s, 12 bolt h1's, some other odds and ends

What did you do to your brakes? What parts were replaced or serviced? It will help in determining what might be the problem.

I agree with snowball09. I would bleed the brake system first before replacing the master cylinder. You may have a bad brake hose or clogged line. You can buy inexpensive bleeding kits at any parts store or vacuum kits (if you don't have an assistant).The following is a simplified procedure for the calipers/wheel cylinders.

Clean all dirt from and remove the brake master cylinder filler cap. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid.

Connect a clear drain tube to the RH rear bleeder screw and the other end in a container partially filled with recommended brake fluid.

Have an assistant pump and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.
Loosen the RH rear bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the bleeder screw.
Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
Tighten the bleeder screw.

Repeat above steps for the LH rear bleeder screw, the RH front bleeder screw and the LH front bleeder screw, in that order.

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'20 Ranger Lariat FX4 Oxford White

Some of the brake fluids that are used can have increased levels of acid that builds up in them after being compressed constantly. If that acidity builds up too much then it will start to eat at the rubber bushings and start to detoriate the brak lines if they are of older and lower quality steel. Def get it flushed and fill it back up. Its healty for the system to do that every 30,000 miles.

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2003 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0L Vulcan Auto Tranny
MAC Performance Ram Air Intake
Flowmaster Super 44 w/ tailpipe before the wheel
Interior and Exterior LED w/ music interface
Ford Racing front and rear Sway Bars
Limited Slip with 4.10 gears

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3114321

The brakes on my 2001 absolutely stink. On my 1993, they had a firm hard feel and worked well. The one thing I noticed when I got the edge was how "Sqishy" the brakes were. I know I had to replace the master cyl hydraulics a few times when I owned the 1993. Im just wondering if I am in the same boat as the original poster. I change my fluid regularly but have never been happy with the lack of braking power.

If your rear drum brakes are not adjusted properly you can get a spongy peddle

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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

did u ever notice a difference when u replaced your master cylinder??

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2001 XLT 4x4 V6 4.0L auto
SAS'd D44 and 8.8. dual lockers, 38s, 12 bolt h1's, some other odds and ends

ive never done drums before, and i really hate paying someone to work on MY truck.....therefore, i dont know how to adjust them lol. do you think it would be expensive to have them adjusted??

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2001 XLT 4x4 V6 4.0L auto
SAS'd D44 and 8.8. dual lockers, 38s, 12 bolt h1's, some other odds and ends

sounds like he has less than ampile knolage to work on the brakes by him self ? maybe some one close should go help him out !

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Jay's
09 XL reg cab
L4 2.3 , 40 series flowmaster , tinted windows 5% back 35% sides ,muffler removed from air box mod ,and ac on off switch mod , blinker mod, avs window vent shades
coming soon! k&n drop in/fiberglass bed cover/bed sprayed liner

there is a slot that should have a little rugger grommet covering it it is toward the bottom of the plate that the brakes shoes go up against. you use a screwdriver or a brake adjusting tool and turn the wheel that adjusts the brake shoes. it is suppose to adjust itself when you step on the brakes while going in reverse. it does not always work especially if it gets rusty and freezes.

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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

Ditto, that was my concern when I read his post that he did his brakes 10K ago and then shows little knowledge about what he did and what were asking him.

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'20 Ranger Lariat FX4 Oxford White

how does tht show little knowledge? i just did my dads brakes today on his 2500 avalanche new rotors and pads all the way around and there primo. so i do know what im doing when it comes to rotors and pads, just not drums and the master cylinder system

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2001 XLT 4x4 V6 4.0L auto
SAS'd D44 and 8.8. dual lockers, 38s, 12 bolt h1's, some other odds and ends