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  #1  
Old 11-08-2009, 04:18 PM
RangerLuc RangerLuc is offline
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Exclamation brake help

i did my brakes about 10k ago and they are very inconsistent. sometimes they work real good (dont have to press hard to stop). and now like today, i had the pedal to the ground and it was hard to stop. i dont think it needs to be bleed? b/c its not the same pressure everytime. Oh, and sometimes i can feel a pulsating back against my foot when im down on the brake pedal.
any help would be great! thanks
-Luc
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SAS'd D44 and 8.8. dual lockers, 38s, 12 bolt h1's, some other odds and ends
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  #2  
Old 11-08-2009, 04:51 PM
DieHard4rd DieHard4rd is offline
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Sounds like a master cylinder going bad.
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  #3  
Old 11-08-2009, 04:57 PM
RangerLuc RangerLuc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SNOWBALL09 View Post
Sounds like a master cylinder going bad.
doesnt sound too good. wheres it at? can i replace it myself? expensive? and what does it do? lol srry for all the ?'s
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SAS'd D44 and 8.8. dual lockers, 38s, 12 bolt h1's, some other odds and ends
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  #4  
Old 11-08-2009, 05:08 PM
DieHard4rd DieHard4rd is offline
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The master cylinder is what the brake fluid resevore sits on top of.


Price, I wouldn't think it should be to much.

Have you tried flushing all the old fluid out with new?
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  #5  
Old 11-08-2009, 05:27 PM
RangerLuc RangerLuc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SNOWBALL09 View Post
The master cylinder is what the brake fluid resevore sits on top of.


Price, I wouldn't think it should be to much.

Have you tried flushing all the old fluid out with new?
um no. ive never done it before and i dont know how.
also, is there any way to check and see if my master cylinder is bad??
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2001 XLT 4x4 V6 4.0L auto
SAS'd D44 and 8.8. dual lockers, 38s, 12 bolt h1's, some other odds and ends

Last edited by RangerLuc; 11-08-2009 at 05:38 PM.
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  #6  
Old 11-08-2009, 06:22 PM
littleblue littleblue is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerLuc View Post
i did my brakes about 10k ago and they are very inconsistent.
What did you do to your brakes? What parts were replaced or serviced? It will help in determining what might be the problem.

I agree with snowball09. I would bleed the brake system first before replacing the master cylinder. You may have a bad brake hose or clogged line. You can buy inexpensive bleeding kits at any parts store or vacuum kits (if you don't have an assistant).The following is a simplified procedure for the calipers/wheel cylinders.

Clean all dirt from and remove the brake master cylinder filler cap. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid.

Connect a clear drain tube to the RH rear bleeder screw and the other end in a container partially filled with recommended brake fluid.

Have an assistant pump and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.
Loosen the RH rear bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the bleeder screw.
Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
Tighten the bleeder screw.

Repeat above steps for the LH rear bleeder screw, the RH front bleeder screw and the LH front bleeder screw, in that order.
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  #7  
Old 11-08-2009, 06:29 PM
olfordtruck olfordtruck is offline
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Some of the brake fluids that are used can have increased levels of acid that builds up in them after being compressed constantly. If that acidity builds up too much then it will start to eat at the rubber bushings and start to detoriate the brak lines if they are of older and lower quality steel. Def get it flushed and fill it back up. Its healty for the system to do that every 30,000 miles.
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  #8  
Old 11-09-2009, 08:37 AM
2fas4u 2fas4u is offline
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The brakes on my 2001 absolutely stink. On my 1993, they had a firm hard feel and worked well. The one thing I noticed when I got the edge was how "Sqishy" the brakes were. I know I had to replace the master cyl hydraulics a few times when I owned the 1993. Im just wondering if I am in the same boat as the original poster. I change my fluid regularly but have never been happy with the lack of braking power.
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  #9  
Old 11-09-2009, 09:49 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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If your rear drum brakes are not adjusted properly you can get a spongy peddle
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2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #10  
Old 11-09-2009, 09:49 AM
RangerLuc RangerLuc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fas4u View Post
The brakes on my 2001 absolutely stink. On my 1993, they had a firm hard feel and worked well. The one thing I noticed when I got the edge was how "Sqishy" the brakes were. I know I had to replace the master cyl hydraulics a few times when I owned the 1993. Im just wondering if I am in the same boat as the original poster. I change my fluid regularly but have never been happy with the lack of braking power.
did u ever notice a difference when u replaced your master cylinder??
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2001 XLT 4x4 V6 4.0L auto
SAS'd D44 and 8.8. dual lockers, 38s, 12 bolt h1's, some other odds and ends
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  #11  
Old 11-09-2009, 09:50 AM
RangerLuc RangerLuc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modelageek View Post
If your rear drum brakes are not adjusted properly you can get a spongy peddle
ive never done drums before, and i really hate paying someone to work on MY truck.....therefore, i dont know how to adjust them lol. do you think it would be expensive to have them adjusted??
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2001 XLT 4x4 V6 4.0L auto
SAS'd D44 and 8.8. dual lockers, 38s, 12 bolt h1's, some other odds and ends
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  #12  
Old 11-09-2009, 11:59 AM
blueovelboy blueovelboy is offline
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sounds like he has less than ampile knolage to work on the brakes by him self ? maybe some one close should go help him out !
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  #13  
Old 11-09-2009, 12:17 PM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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there is a slot that should have a little rugger grommet covering it it is toward the bottom of the plate that the brakes shoes go up against. you use a screwdriver or a brake adjusting tool and turn the wheel that adjusts the brake shoes. it is suppose to adjust itself when you step on the brakes while going in reverse. it does not always work especially if it gets rusty and freezes.
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #14  
Old 11-09-2009, 01:36 PM
littleblue littleblue is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueovelboy View Post
sounds like he has less than ampile knolage to work on the brakes by him self ? maybe some one close should go help him out !
Ditto, that was my concern when I read his post that he did his brakes 10K ago and then shows little knowledge about what he did and what were asking him.
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'00 XLT 3.0 Exted cab
Mods: Roush hood & cai, ASP pwr pulley, hot wtr bypass, 180 therm, e-fan, Gibson exh., 4.10 l/s, FabTech lift, kyb's, bii sway bar. 31x10.50 Yokahama ATs, Panther rims, light bar, SS grille, 03 stang buckets, explorer console, hurst shifter


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/706028/1
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  #15  
Old 11-09-2009, 01:49 PM
RangerLuc RangerLuc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littleblue View Post
Ditto, that was my concern when I read his post that he did his brakes 10K ago and then shows little knowledge about what he did and what were asking him.
how does tht show little knowledge? i just did my dads brakes today on his 2500 avalanche new rotors and pads all the way around and there primo. so i do know what im doing when it comes to rotors and pads, just not drums and the master cylinder system
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2001 XLT 4x4 V6 4.0L auto
SAS'd D44 and 8.8. dual lockers, 38s, 12 bolt h1's, some other odds and ends
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