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  #16  
Old 11-09-2009, 01:50 PM
RangerLuc RangerLuc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueovelboy View Post
sounds like he has less than ampile knolage to work on the brakes by him self ? maybe some one close should go help him out !
if there is anybody on here that is close to kzoo, it would be really cool if someone could help me out. im just learning all of this mechanic stuff too. so i dont need any bullshit criticism.
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2001 XLT 4x4 V6 4.0L auto
SAS'd D44 and 8.8. dual lockers, 38s, 12 bolt h1's, some other odds and ends
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  #17  
Old 11-09-2009, 07:39 PM
littleblue littleblue is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerLuc View Post
if there is anybody on here that is close to kzoo, it would be really cool if someone could help me out. im just learning all of this mechanic stuff too. so i dont need any bullshit criticism.
It's not criticism. We asked what had been done and no answer. We're trying to save you time and money by not throwing parts at your problem. If you don't understand the entire brake system then you need assistance. Yes replacing pads and rotors can be fairly simple, but where the guide pins checked for wear, lubed properly, hoses checked, etc. Putting new pads on will force brake fluid back toward the master cylinder. If the fluid is contaminated (had it happen on a friend's bii, fluid was like syrup and plugged up proportioning valve) causing the problems you describe. It also could be the master cylinder but it's a lot easier and cheaper to bleed the system with fresh fluid than replace the master. Were just trying to help.

If you pm me with your email address I'll send you the OEM tech procedures w/pics for the bleeding and drum/shoe removal.
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'00 XLT 3.0 Exted cab
Mods: Roush hood & cai, ASP pwr pulley, hot wtr bypass, 180 therm, e-fan, Gibson exh., 4.10 l/s, FabTech lift, kyb's, bii sway bar. 31x10.50 Yokahama ATs, Panther rims, light bar, SS grille, 03 stang buckets, explorer console, hurst shifter


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Last edited by littleblue; 11-09-2009 at 07:46 PM.
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  #18  
Old 11-10-2009, 06:59 AM
RangerLuc RangerLuc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littleblue View Post
It's not criticism. We asked what had been done and no answer. We're trying to save you time and money by not throwing parts at your problem. If you don't understand the entire brake system then you need assistance. Yes replacing pads and rotors can be fairly simple, but where the guide pins checked for wear, lubed properly, hoses checked, etc. Putting new pads on will force brake fluid back toward the master cylinder. If the fluid is contaminated (had it happen on a friend's bii, fluid was like syrup and plugged up proportioning valve) causing the problems you describe. It also could be the master cylinder but it's a lot easier and cheaper to bleed the system with fresh fluid than replace the master. Were just trying to help.

If you pm me with your email address I'll send you the OEM tech procedures w/pics for the bleeding and drum/shoe removal.
my e-mail is elkhunter58227@hotmail.com
thx for the help
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2001 XLT 4x4 V6 4.0L auto
SAS'd D44 and 8.8. dual lockers, 38s, 12 bolt h1's, some other odds and ends
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  #19  
Old 11-10-2009, 09:29 AM
blueovelboy blueovelboy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerLuc View Post
if there is anybody on here that is close to kzoo, it would be really cool if someone could help me out. im just learning all of this mechanic stuff too. so i dont need any bullshit criticism.
please dont be mad at me for my concerns about you and your truck. in no way was i criticizing you i was just trying to help! i had my first brake job end up in 7/11 when thay failed me. so thats where my concern comes from didn't want you to learn like i did from a older brother that didn't care and let me drive off with out a slave cylinder not working and it dumped all the fluid out = no brakes
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  #20  
Old 11-10-2009, 10:14 AM
RangerLuc RangerLuc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueovelboy View Post
please dont be mad at me for my concerns about you and your truck. in no way was i criticizing you i was just trying to help! i had my first brake job end up in 7/11 when thay failed me. so thats where my concern comes from didn't want you to learn like i did from a older brother that didn't care and let me drive off with out a slave cylinder not working and it dumped all the fluid out = no brakes
im not mad. trust me, i REALLY appreciate your guys help and concern. i wouldnt be on this forum if i didnt think you guys know what you are talking about. im going to go ahead and bleed out my brakes once i get that OEM tech page on how to do it. i hope that makes them better.
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2001 XLT 4x4 V6 4.0L auto
SAS'd D44 and 8.8. dual lockers, 38s, 12 bolt h1's, some other odds and ends
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  #21  
Old 11-10-2009, 11:02 AM
littleblue littleblue is offline
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Email sent with info. Files in .pdf format. If you don't have Acrobat reader, go to adobe.com and download it for free. Hope it helps and let me know if you need anything else.
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'00 XLT 3.0 Exted cab
Mods: Roush hood & cai, ASP pwr pulley, hot wtr bypass, 180 therm, e-fan, Gibson exh., 4.10 l/s, FabTech lift, kyb's, bii sway bar. 31x10.50 Yokahama ATs, Panther rims, light bar, SS grille, 03 stang buckets, explorer console, hurst shifter


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/706028/1
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  #22  
Old 11-10-2009, 04:20 PM
yarddogbbq yarddogbbq is offline
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adjusting the rear brakes and making sure the e brake is not sticking also.

i think modelageek aready stated adjusting the rear brakes.

yd.

usually the brake pedal will come up with foot on the pedal and starting the engine. if the booster is working. if the brakes are adjusted correctly.
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  #23  
Old 12-10-2009, 11:58 AM
GreenMeany GreenMeany is offline
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My Ranger is having a very similar problem. The whole system (master cylinder, lines, calipers, pads) was replaced about a year and a half ago, and for the last 6 months or so the brake pedal can't decide how far it wants to go before the brakes actually come on.
Sometimes it's nice and tight as it should be, other times it sinks to the floor and it struggles to stop. Pumping the pedal makes no difference, it stays loose for 3 or 4 pumps, then suddenly goes tight again on the 5th and stays tight for the rest of the drive. Sometimes, it starts off tight, then goes completely, then comes back.
I've noticed it's worse at lower engine revs, so I was thinking it could be a dodgy brake booster. I checked the Haynes manual, and did the troubleshooting test for the booster, but it seems to be working fine. Now I'm really confused

I might have a look at adjusting up the rear brakes, haven't checked that bit yet....
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  #24  
Old 12-10-2009, 12:11 PM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Greenmany do you have rabs. Is the abs light on at all
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #25  
Old 12-10-2009, 12:18 PM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Greenmany do you have rabs. Is the abs light on at all
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #26  
Old 12-10-2009, 12:26 PM
GreenMeany GreenMeany is offline
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No, I don't have ABS (I don't think I do...), but the light for the ABS came on a few months back, then went off, and hasn't come on since.
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  #27  
Old 12-10-2009, 12:29 PM
greyghost greyghost is offline
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has anyone checked the vacuum tube in the brake booster for a pin hole?
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  #28  
Old 12-10-2009, 12:32 PM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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I am pretty sure you have rabs rear anti lock brakes and I am pretty sure you have a vss/abs sensor at the top of the diffential. $20 at AZ. Replace it one nut pop it off I think it is 10mm
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #29  
Old 12-10-2009, 12:38 PM
GreenMeany GreenMeany is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greyghost View Post
has anyone checked the vacuum tube in the brake booster for a pin hole?
I haven't yet, but that was my initial thought.... I'll take a peek and see what I can find

Quote:
Originally Posted by modelageek View Post
I am pretty sure you have rabs rear anti lock brakes and I am pretty sure you have a vss/abs sensor at the top of the diffential. $20 at AZ. Replace it one nut pop it off I think it is 10mm
I think i'll have to crawl back under the truck and check to see if it has it now.... good thinking
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  #30  
Old 12-10-2009, 12:44 PM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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i was on my blackberry it is hard to type. do some research on it. i think that might be your issue rockauto lists the same part for your truck as for mine abs wheel speed sensor
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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