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  #16  
Old 10-07-2009, 11:15 PM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Arizona and Vodka. Lots. It is FINALLY kicking itn now. I've trying since 10 to get drunkl.
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  #17  
Old 10-08-2009, 02:56 AM
Alon Alon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireRanger View Post
Arizona and Vodka. Lots. It is FINALLY kicking itn now. I've trying since 10 to get drunkl.
Seems to be working!

Sorry to hear about that man, I'm waiting for the day my timing chain rattle becomes "timing chain destroys the engine"
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  #18  
Old 10-08-2009, 12:17 PM
Superlifted06FX4 Superlifted06FX4 is offline
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Why not just fix the rattle and use the updated parts?
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torsion bar crank, 32x11.50R15's, DSG Alcoa's, S10 Blazer short OHC, black interior, Sonar projector headlights, taillight mod, Nightshades, hood/grille blackout, glasspack and resonator tip side exhaust, Xtang Blackmagic tonneau cover, THE original STX swap.
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  #19  
Old 10-08-2009, 02:08 PM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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there has been a rolled 04 in Boston Craigslist for the last week. Might be high mileage. I just looked and did not see it I think the guy was asking $500 not sure if the role screws the engine. Good luck with it if I see anything I will post it
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2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #20  
Old 10-08-2009, 02:09 PM
chainfire chainfire is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superlifted06FX4 View Post
Why not just fix the rattle and use the updated parts?
Sometimes it still wont fix the problem. Also, the parts are super expensive.
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  #21  
Old 10-08-2009, 02:30 PM
Fx4wannabe01 Fx4wannabe01 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superlifted06FX4 View Post
Why not just fix the rattle and use the updated parts?
What idiot would spend $1500+ to fix the timing chains, guides, and tensioners on a high mile engine that has had a hard live, and in the end you've got new timing chain system and a still beat ass bottom end?!??? Engine has to come out anyway for the rear chain...
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  #22  
Old 10-08-2009, 02:53 PM
Alon Alon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01 View Post
What idiot would spend $1500+ to fix the timing chains, guides, and tensioners on a high mile engine that has had a hard live, and in the end you've got new timing chain system and a still beat ass bottom end?!??? Engine has to come out anyway for the rear chain...
Yup, the second it goes I'm going with an entire new engine.
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  #23  
Old 10-08-2009, 03:52 PM
Downey Downey is offline
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that blows man this is why im picking up a free motor for my truck this weekend
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  #24  
Old 10-08-2009, 05:00 PM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Hey Superlift i am not as intellectually gifted or nearly as savvy with a wrench as Wannabe but maybe you can explain what you meant about the rattle and we can have a discussion and see if we can learn a few things.
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #25  
Old 10-08-2009, 05:15 PM
whippersnapper02 whippersnapper02 is offline
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The rattle is a rattle literally. Ford fucked up and the put timing chain tensionors that wear out before their time and it would cause the chain to have a too much slack and rattle at certain RPMs. Fixing the problems requires a lot of Ford special tools to line everything up and sometimes requires the removal of the engine since the SOHC 4.0 has 2 timing chains up front and one on the back. I say if you have the rattle bad and the engine has to come out then replace the whole engine. It's not worth taking the engine out just to fix the rattle and put the same high mileage engine back in.
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Last edited by whippersnapper02; 10-08-2009 at 07:39 PM.
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  #26  
Old 10-08-2009, 06:10 PM
Redrocket Redrocket is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckstone View Post
honestly matt 1 reason i like manual fans it works lol... and if it fails 99.99% fails on lol still sucks tho
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Originally Posted by Redneckstone View Post
i would go with the old fashion way. it prob did fail heck seen stock e-fans also fail my GF friends escort motor died that way also
agreed manual fans are the way to go they never fail lol but that does suck tho that your motor cooked itself hope ya get it fixed
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  #27  
Old 10-08-2009, 07:32 PM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Weird day today. The engine isn't blown. There was a hole the size of a shoe in the side of the radiator at the upper hose. I don't know how or when or why. It makes no sense. When i turned the fan on manually, it was flowing coolant and cooled the engine down. The overflow tank was blown open from the overheat which means the system worked. I don't know how or where this hole came from and how the truck ran for the time that it did with it like that. I also have no explanation for why the e-fan stopped running even with the high temperature condition.

Picked up a radiator at the dealer and brought it and the truck which started and ran FINE to the radiator shop across the street where my friend works. With the new radiator, t-stat and a flush out, it is running fine now. No noises, no problems. The e-fan came on like it is supposed to. Everything works fine. W-T-F. I need to keep a close eye on it for air bubbles and leakage in case the head or head gasket are damaged from heat. But so far so good.

Guesses about last night, the metallic banging may have actually been massive spark knock since the engine was probably hotter than a thermite bomb. The lack of oil pressure was because the oil was so hot it was probably about to boil. The sequence of events leading up to this though make no sense and none of us can figure it out.

Of course just to break my balls, the belt tension started to rattle so I have a new one to put in tomorrow. And the brand new radiator sprung a pinhole leak this evening. Bastard.
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2003 Edge 4.0 4wd

How to: Aux light wiring, relays, & fuses
Info: 300+ intake threads here on FRF
Info: HID Projectors
How To: NO HEAT Troubleshooting Guide

Last edited by FireRanger; 10-08-2009 at 07:36 PM.
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  #28  
Old 10-08-2009, 07:39 PM
blueranger789 blueranger789 is offline
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dang that sucks about the blown motor
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  #29  
Old 10-08-2009, 07:40 PM
whippersnapper02 whippersnapper02 is offline
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Time for a radiator with aluminum tanks.
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2010 Magnetic Grey Metallic Toyota Tacoma Double Cab TRD offroad 4wd
Quote:
Originally Posted by RazorsEDGE View Post
A 2wd will go most anywhere a 4x4 will go as long as the ground is flat and dry. And as far as a 2wd rock crawling, well, that ain't rock crawling.
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  #30  
Old 10-08-2009, 08:23 PM
Fx4wannabe01 Fx4wannabe01 is offline
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Crazyness! I suspect when it blew, took out the fan motor or the controller box because didn't griggs put the controller box between the battery and the rad? Wait...i still stand by that but got confused on the rad pic on what side blew out. lol.

change that oil!!
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