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  #16  
Old 10-03-2009, 12:52 PM
Bighomedog11 Bighomedog11 is offline
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I am going to look at my temp gauge when its cold outside... Witch will be Monday on my way to school.

But i notice when i do turn my heat on floor it will blow warm on the passenger side and code on the driver side.

And my last mechanic a few years said it was a blend door problem.
So i think that is my problem..

And the year of the truck is a 96
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  #17  
Old 10-07-2009, 08:20 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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if those are not heater hoses, what hoses are they?
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #18  
Old 10-07-2009, 03:29 PM
Bighomedog11 Bighomedog11 is offline
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Ohh,Thanks for the reply's.
Yeah i think it is a blind door problem now.

I just don't really know how to remove the dash and what to look for. So i might have to take it to a mechanic and let them do it. But i love working on cars so if i could learn how i wouldn't mind doing it.
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97"Ford Ranger 2.3L

Mods: Headlights 8k HIDs, Green Fogs HIDs, FlowMaster 40 Series, Tails lights, Shaved Tail gate,Roll pan, 5/6 lowered, Ibeams, 2in coils, Flip kit, Honda Metallic Paint

DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT
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  #19  
Old 10-07-2009, 03:48 PM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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If you get a mechanic to do it please let us know what it cost. If they have to pull the dash you might want to consider changing the heater core too
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #20  
Old 10-07-2009, 03:57 PM
Clem Clem is offline
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This is for a 91-94 Explorer, but they are close to the same, it will head you in the right direction.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/....php?p=2299124
You might try removing the glove box, and see if you can do any good there.
Hint: pulling the dash is a little easier with glove box removed, squeeze the back of the box when it is open and let it fall forward, take the 4 or 5 screws out and that's done.
I didn't ask this, and don't know if anyone else did or not, have you flushed the cooling system?

Ray
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White 2002 Ranger XLT Extended Cab 4.0 4x4 4.10 LS
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K&N CAI 77-2529KP
Jet Chip
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  #21  
Old 10-07-2009, 04:31 PM
Bighomedog11 Bighomedog11 is offline
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Thanks!
No i didn't flush the cooling system..

The truck didn't have any radiator coolant in the jug. But i just put some water in there and the access of the coolant from the radiator went into the jug. So now it has some in there.
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97"Ford Ranger 2.3L

Mods: Headlights 8k HIDs, Green Fogs HIDs, FlowMaster 40 Series, Tails lights, Shaved Tail gate,Roll pan, 5/6 lowered, Ibeams, 2in coils, Flip kit, Honda Metallic Paint

DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT
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  #22  
Old 10-07-2009, 05:54 PM
Clem Clem is offline
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You may just need to flush the cooling system, I'll try to find the link on "How To" for ya.
The jug is just an overflow for when the coolant gets warm, speaking of which, have you had the coolant checked to see if it is good for winter?

Ray

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=251416

Try this link for cooling system flush.
The reason for checking your coolant for winter, it doesn't stay goo for ever. I you add water to a cooling system, it diminishes the amount of winter protection you have. Anti freeze is also a coolant in the summer, a 50/50 mix of water/anti freeze is good for about -40, but won't boil till it reaches 215* or more.
If you flush the system, you will need to have new anti freeze anyway.

Ray
__________________
White 2002 Ranger XLT Extended Cab 4.0 4x4 4.10 LS
5 spd,/BW1354e
K&N CAI 77-2529KP
Jet Chip
2 1/4" Exhaust
Explorer Dome Light
IN THE WORKS:
Sable Electric Fan


“If you do not know where you are going, every road will get you nowhere.”
—Henry Kissinger

Last edited by Clem; 10-07-2009 at 06:38 PM. Reason: update with a link.
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  #23  
Old 10-07-2009, 06:31 PM
Bighomedog11 Bighomedog11 is offline
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Alright thanks..
What do you mean check for winter? No i never had it checked though.. But there no leaks i know that.

Edit:
I did a quick google search and found out how to do it
Step by Step on how to flush it
Its at the bottom on that site.
But i doubt that is causing the problem because my engine doesn't overheat it is always at a normal temp.
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97"Ford Ranger 2.3L

Mods: Headlights 8k HIDs, Green Fogs HIDs, FlowMaster 40 Series, Tails lights, Shaved Tail gate,Roll pan, 5/6 lowered, Ibeams, 2in coils, Flip kit, Honda Metallic Paint

DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT

Last edited by Bighomedog11; 10-07-2009 at 07:04 PM.
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  #24  
Old 10-07-2009, 09:32 PM
Clem Clem is offline
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Do the blend door and see what happens.
Then get your coolant tested to see what the freezing point is.

Ray
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White 2002 Ranger XLT Extended Cab 4.0 4x4 4.10 LS
5 spd,/BW1354e
K&N CAI 77-2529KP
Jet Chip
2 1/4" Exhaust
Explorer Dome Light
IN THE WORKS:
Sable Electric Fan


“If you do not know where you are going, every road will get you nowhere.”
—Henry Kissinger
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  #25  
Old 10-20-2009, 07:27 PM
maverick1970 maverick1970 is offline
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I have a 1998 4 cylinder 2.5L automatc Ranger and my heater isn't working either. I thought it was a thermostat problem, because on the way to work Monday morning with the temps in the low 30s, it took approx 40 minutes before the temp gauge rose to normal and the heater air got hot. Assuming that the t-stat was stuck open. And then in the afternoon with the ambiant temps in the 60s, the temp gauge was normal while moving but jumped to nearly H when stopped, so it wasn't opening enough.

With those symptoms, I decided to replace the t-stat. I did that today and now the temp gauge will not go above the C and the heater remains blowing cold air. FYI... I did flushed the radiator. The two heater core pipes are hot along with the upper radiator hose. It acts as if the new t-stat is stuck open. Oh and get this, I took the old t-stat and put it on the stove with boiling water and it works fine. Opens in the boiling water and closes when dropped in cold tap water.

I am completely clueless as I've worked on other vechiles with similar problems and the t-stat replacement normally fixes it. Any ideas or comments would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Jeremy/Jackson,GA
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  #26  
Old 10-21-2009, 04:15 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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I found that the only t-stat that works properly on my truck is the recommended mororcraft one, plus it must be installed porperly
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #27  
Old 10-21-2009, 07:05 AM
Clem Clem is offline
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Well, I am at a loss here.
Something I have noted, not a solution, there seems to be a lot of problem with heating, some are having a problem with getting heat into the cab with the engine actually operating at temperature, others are having a problem getting the engine to warm up to operating temp, let alone get heat into the cab.
I can't help but think both are related, but I don't see how. I think this is going to get involved and this reply is going to be long.
What we all know goes as such, (correct me if I miss something or put some thing in the wrong order), starting in the engine, fluid is pulled from the engine into the heater core and back to the pump, until the thermostat opens all the coolant that is being circulated is in the engine and the heater core. Until the thermostat opens from heated coolant in the engine, so there is no circulation threw the radiator, when the thermostat opens, the hot coolant is allowed to pass into the radiator and back to the engine reducing the coolant temp in the engine and circulation begins throughout the entire system.
If you have a/c the heater coolant flow is always open except when in max a/c or off mode. Without a/c, it is either circulating or not circulating, on/off.
Intake manifold flow is metered from the rear of the manifold to the front and below the heat crossover.
Coolant flows to the pump into the block, up threw the cylinder heads to the manifold water box to the radiator.
With that said, from past experience on older vehicles, if the thermostat is put in backwards or is stuck in the open position, you will not get good heat, (I had a Pinto that had the thermostat in backwards from the factory), if the heater hoses are reversed you will not get good heat, (I did that on my B2 some years back, swapped them around, problem solved). If the heater core is plugged or restricted, you won't get good heat and possibly no heat in the cab. If your radiator core is large, (most now are single, or possibly two core) a four core on a vehicle set up for towing, it will take longer to get the system up to temp, but should still produce good heat.
If the system is not properly pressurized you may not get good heat, (old Ford trucks had to have 9# to 12# caps, newer ones I believe, run up to 18# caps). Had a 66 SNB with a 6 cylinder, swapped engine to a 351W, heat worked but not great, changed the radiator cap to a 14#?, problem solved.
Same 66 Ford truck, no heat in the cab, I chased this problem for a couple days, got my daughter to move the heater control while I watch the valve, it appeared to be alright so went onto the next item. A week later I changed the valve, problem solved.
A friends Ford truck, no heat in the cab, he had water in the radiator, but didn't bother to tell that he had to fill it every couple days, he had a heater hose leaking out side the cab, (raining in Seattle for a week or more) so we didn't see it till the weather dried up, replaced the hose, still no heat, burped the system, it took a couple minutes to get water to flow threw the heater, problem solved.
These are some of my experiences with heater problems, there are others that were due to crud in the systems, plugged heater cores, collapsed heater hoses on the return side, (those you only find when you really look for them, they are caused from old hoses with a soft spot in them, if you don't find them, before too long you will have a leak at that spot), a collapsed lower radiator hose, (caused by a restricted radiator on one, and too long of hose on another, that one finally burned up the engine).
With what I have put down here, I hope someone can glean something from it to help with the problem they are having. I read somewhere on the internet a check list of things in order of importance or possibilities for diagnosing heating problems in vehicles. I searched for it earlier, to no avail, maybe someone else will have better luck.
Good luck with your heating problem diagnosis, keep us posted as to what you find, what works and what doesn't work.

Ray
__________________
White 2002 Ranger XLT Extended Cab 4.0 4x4 4.10 LS
5 spd,/BW1354e
K&N CAI 77-2529KP
Jet Chip
2 1/4" Exhaust
Explorer Dome Light
IN THE WORKS:
Sable Electric Fan


“If you do not know where you are going, every road will get you nowhere.”
—Henry Kissinger
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  #28  
Old 10-21-2009, 07:39 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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I have posted on this an another site at least 5 times in the last month for people that had the same engine as mine and could not get there engine to warm up. This happened to me. I solved the problem by properly installing the correct MOTORCRAFT tstat for me it was motorcraft # F8CZ-8575-AA TSTAT and the engine should warm up. NO ONE has responded that they try this and it worked. I am suspecting that they did do it it did work and that they are post whores and never came back to post a conclusion.
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #29  
Old 10-21-2009, 05:44 PM
maverick1970 maverick1970 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modelageek View Post
I have posted on this an another site at least 5 times in the last month for people that had the same engine as mine and could not get there engine to warm up. This happened to me. I solved the problem by properly installing the correct MOTORCRAFT tstat for me it was motorcraft # F8CZ-8575-AA TSTAT and the engine should warm up. NO ONE has responded that they try this and it worked. I am suspecting that they did do it it did work and that they are post whores and never came back to post a conclusion.
Hey there Ed. I did it today and it worked out. My temp gauge is back to normal. You can clearly see a difference in the t-stat made by Motorcraft in comparison to the one I bought at Autozone brand name Fail-Safe made by MotoRad. I've attached some pics. The order of the pics are (1.) old factory t-stat, new Motorcraft t-stat and Fail-Safe t-stat (2) bottom view of the same three (3) old factory t-stat (4) new Motorcraft t-stat (5) Autozone Fail-Safe t-stat. Notice how the Motorcraft has the metal bracket bushing thingies at the bottom close to the rubber gasket and the one from Autozone doesn't.

Bad news is that my heat is still not hot but only a mild warm. I checked the heater control valve and found the vacuum line wasn't connected so I reconnected it. That didn't help. I took the heater control valve off and attempted to flush the heater core. I turned the water hose on high thinking that a lot of water would come out of the other hose. Nope... it only dribbled out. So I'm thinking I've got a clogged heater core.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg IMG_6816.jpg (83.2 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_6814.jpg (91.8 KB, 14 views)
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Last edited by maverick1970; 10-21-2009 at 05:48 PM.
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  #30  
Old 10-21-2009, 06:26 PM
Clem Clem is offline
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Did you try flushing both directions? I know, that was a dumb question, of course you did.

Ray
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White 2002 Ranger XLT Extended Cab 4.0 4x4 4.10 LS
5 spd,/BW1354e
K&N CAI 77-2529KP
Jet Chip
2 1/4" Exhaust
Explorer Dome Light
IN THE WORKS:
Sable Electric Fan


“If you do not know where you are going, every road will get you nowhere.”
—Henry Kissinger
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