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  #16  
Old 09-29-2009, 06:06 PM
RangerLuc RangerLuc is offline
yup
 
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oh and no body lift. just cranked the torsion bars
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  #17  
Old 09-29-2009, 06:12 PM
Bighomedog11 Bighomedog11 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerLuc View Post
oh and no body lift. just cranked the torsion bars
Just take it to a shop and watch them do it. Because with the knowledge you are giving us it seems like you don't need to be messing with it..
I mean its super easy to do... You can look at the top of the motor and see were the spark plugs are..
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  #18  
Old 09-29-2009, 06:16 PM
STL STL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bighomedog11 View Post
Just take it to a shop and watch them do it. Because with the knowledge you are giving us it seems like you don't need to be messing with it..
I mean its super easy to do... You can look at the top of the motor and see were the spark plugs are..
Yes you can look at the top of the engine and see where they go, but on the 4.0 you cant get to them from the top that easily especially on the passenger side.
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  #19  
Old 09-29-2009, 06:17 PM
RangerLuc RangerLuc is offline
yup
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bighomedog11 View Post
Just take it to a shop and watch them do it. Because with the knowledge you are giving us it seems like you don't need to be messing with it..
I mean its super easy to do... You can look at the top of the motor and see were the spark plugs are..
ya but how costly is it gunna be to have someone do it
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  #20  
Old 09-29-2009, 06:21 PM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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You've done all that work and you're seriously asking how to change a spark plug? I'm confused.
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  #21  
Old 09-29-2009, 06:23 PM
RangerLuc RangerLuc is offline
yup
 
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Originally Posted by FireRanger View Post
You've done all that work and you're seriously asking how to change a spark plug? I'm confused.
ya. never done them before. is that a problem wit u?
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  #22  
Old 09-29-2009, 06:29 PM
mossyoak03 mossyoak03 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STL View Post
Yes you can look at the top of the engine and see where they go, but on the 4.0 you cant get to them from the top that easily especially on the passenger side.
thats not true i have a 4.0 and a/c with a body lift and i still get to mine from the top of the engine.
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  #23  
Old 09-29-2009, 06:31 PM
STL STL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STL View Post
you cant get to them from the top that easily especially on the passenger side.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mossyoak03 View Post
thats not true i have a 4.0 and a/c with a body lift and i still get to mine from the top of the engine.
Look at what I said keyword being easily ya you may be able to get to them with long skinny arms but for me it's easier to remove the wheel
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  #24  
Old 09-29-2009, 09:07 PM
DannyG DannyG is offline
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Get a hanes or ciltons manual. For the most part they will give a decent guide on how to do most things (get you started anyways).

And i had my 92 tuned up when I first got it for about 300 bucks, that included oil change, trans filter/fluid change, plugs/wires, checking the differencals and new oil in them, some u-joint replacements. and hub inspection, repacking.
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  #25  
Old 09-29-2009, 10:30 PM
02'4.04x4 02'4.04x4 is offline
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Just get a pivot extension pull the boot and then the plug. Two are a PITA but they get done much quicker with a ratchet in hand. . . Have fun.
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  #26  
Old 02-15-2010, 08:43 AM
Ranger69 Ranger69 is offline
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Being the thrifty sort I have always been, I did plugs and wires on my 01 4.0L SOHC last month. Original plugs, and 68K on the motor. That said, I got great advice from a few after gathering all the replacements. I chose to go the route of Jack stands, remove both front wheels, take out the rubberized splash guards, the (this one'll get a few responses) removal of both inner fender wells. Each fender well (with factory mudflaps) are approximately 12 assorted bolts/nuts/screws/plugs. Once those inner fender wells are out, all 6 plugs and wires are right in front of you. Using a minimal amount of tools, super easy. No climbing into the top of the engine, no scrapped knuckles/fingers/hands, extremely easy to pull the wire boots and remove/install the plugs. Used Autolite Plats AP5144, and Autolite Professional series wires. Don't forget to use a dab of antisieze, it'll make taking them out later much easier. BTW, for the people out there who don't know. Autolite is Motorcrafts civilian brand. The only differences are the price, the name on the insulator, and the packaging. This job was accomplished for 30 bucks with all rebates (am waiting for them now) and the difference in 9 yr old plugs/wires on my 01 Edge 4.0L w/torsion bar, is fantastic!

Just one of many self (repair) work done on this workhorse! Happy Ranger'ing!!!
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  #27  
Old 02-15-2010, 09:13 AM
pistol37 pistol37 is offline
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That is true. I just changed my plugs and it is actually easier to change them through the wheel wells that under the hood. Then again, if he can't even find them, maybe he shouldn't be doing it @ all!
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  #28  
Old 02-15-2010, 09:44 AM
bigcountry bigcountry is offline
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another good tip is it get a old set of wires and cut the part of the connector that goes on the plug and use that to start the spark plug into the block that will help keep from from cross threading the plug and use anti-seize on them aswell and also get a piece of rubber tubing and put it in your deep socket and that will help hold the plug in place while you are removing it from the block
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