1990 Ford Ranger Rattling noise.

leothelyon · #1 10-05-2018, 09:01 PM

Hi everyone
I have a rattling noise when I depressed the clutch. The sound comes from the transmission area. After much searching, I was led to believe the noise is coming from the throwout bearing or the clutch slave cylinder. I have the old part out but can't duplicate the rattling noise when I spin the bearing but the new bearing is much more solid, tighter spin. I replaced this part and the clutch assembly Feb 2014. My concern is, before I put everything back together, should I check something else that may have caused the rattling noise. I have the transmission out about 8 inches where I could remove the cylinder but have learned too late, all I needed to do was replace the bearing only and not disconnect the line. I think my problem is solved.
Leo

leothelyon · #2 10-09-2018, 02:21 PM

Hi
I need torque specs for clutch slave cylinder inside bell housing of transmission. Autozone did not have them. Local dealership didn't want to help me, said guy was too busy. Ford Motor company didn't know or where to direct me. Called a second dealership, man says the two bolts on slave is 13.9 while the bolts for the bell housing is anywhere in the range of 38 to 51 newts which converts to 28 to 38 ib/fts. Can someone here confirm or correct? I'd like a second opinion or a better source. Like I said in first post, I did this work in 2014 but don't know where I got the last figures or where I recorded the numbers.. Thanks Leo

leothelyon · #3 10-30-2018, 06:39 AM

Well, I bought a Chilton book I already had and was able to return to get those ft/ib specs. The job is complete with mediocre results. The truck runs but there's still some intermittent rattling. Did I put in a flawed throwout bearing after all that work? The difference between the new and old bearing was the thickness. the old had really worn down, like a 1/2 inch so.....my guess is, the old bearing wore down to the point where it could no longer push in the fingers to disengage the two spinning parts that are in constant contact.
Like I said, I'm not a mechanic and had to do this twice now on this truck. I had a dealership service mechanic tell me I needed 56 to 64 ft/ibs for the bell housing bolts. I replied, 56 ft/lbs times 12 that's 768 inch lbs, that I couldn't pull that amount of torque if I was able to hang all my weight on the wrench. He laughed and admitted it was a little high. I settled at 360 inch lbs and I barely managed that. I'm 60 and I really threw out some back muscles torquing down some of those bolts. And I'll admit, I didn't get all those bolts to those standards. i actually left one out. But anyways, I'll keep a close ear to that rattling noise. Leo

roscoe 0202 · #4 10-31-2018, 01:41 PM

did you check the pilot bearing
roscoe

leothelyon · #5 11-05-2018, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roscoe 0202

did you check the pilot bearing
roscoe

I only did a visual and finger probe of this. I could not turn it nor did it feel lose and no teeth or ribs were missing. I assumed this part was attached to a greater part and did not turn/spin apart from the larger part surrounding it. I did not research this. I did ask above if there were any other things I should check before reassembling the trans to the engine and received no response. But I probably should have research my Chilton manual. I'm researching it now.

Leon

roscoe 0202 · #6 11-05-2018, 11:23 AM

look at the input shaft if the pilot bearing is bad the shaft will likely be blue from heat
roscoe