LED bulb replacement

[stvz11]

Attempting to install LED bulbs while replacing a burnt out front turn signal. The OEM bulb is a 3457A. The LED bulb I purchased is a 3157 (amber) Sylvania bulb. I know the numbers are different but the package also states that it replaces 3457 also. When I get home and replace the bulb the parking light works, but the turn signal flashes rapidly as of the bulb is burnt out. I also tried the second bulb in the package worth the same result. If I put in a 3157 incandescent bulb it works fine.

Any idea what the deal is? Do I need something special to used LED bulbs? Is it that I am replacing only one and if I did both it would work? Is it because it’s a 3157 and not a 3457 and the package is just wrong?

[121ak]

It's called hyperflashing. The LED bulbs use a lot less energy than the old incandescent bulbs. Therefore, your flasher thinks the bulbs are still bad.

It's an easy fix. Just need to install a load resistor. You can get an LED load resistor kit online for a few bucks.

[Chevy_Country]

Originally Posted by stvz11

Attempting to install LED bulbs while replacing a burnt out front turn signal. The OEM bulb is a 3457A. The LED bulb I purchased is a 3157 (amber) Sylvania bulb. I know the numbers are different but the package also states that it replaces 3457 also. When I get home and replace the bulb the parking light works, but the turn signal flashes rapidly as of the bulb is burnt out. I also tried the second bulb in the package worth the same result. If I put in a 3157 incandescent bulb it works fine.



Any idea what the deal is? Do I need something special to used LED bulbs? Is it that I am replacing only one and if I did both it would work? Is it because it’s a 3157 and not a 3457 and the package is just wrong?

The car uses the resistance in the bulb to determine whether the bulb is working or not, if the bulb burns out, there is no pass through of electrical current through the resistance of a Filament. When you replace with an led bulb, the wattage is so low there isn’t enough resistance through that the vehicle believes the filament has burnt out. Wire a “load resistor” through the hot wire for the bilked to the ground wire. (there will be three wires for that lamp being there is two function and a given ground. My truck had a black a brown and a white/green wire, the brown was for parking lamp operation and black was for turn signal operation, I can’t assure this is the same for your truck.) attached is what my load resistors looked like

B2543AD8-ED11-421D-94E2-CB73F2A2BF10-5403-000001BAF2CABE18.jpg


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[Muroki2.3]

Even easier is to go on amazon and buy what is called an EP27 for led lights. It’s your relay under your dash. You need to bust out the old Gumbi skills to get under there but it’s super easy to do and no wire splicing!


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iJDMTOY (1) 5-Pin EP27 FL27 Electronic LED Flasher Relay Fix For LED Turn Signal Bulbs Hyper Flash Fix https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W2B52SK..._nuPBAbC6VEH7N


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[Undrstm8ed]

And the only other thing different from a 3157 and a 3457 is brightness of the bulb itself in the terms of wattage. So if a 3157 was a 4watt bulb a 3457 may be a 7watt or 9 watt bulb. Those arent specific or true to bulb wattage for those bulbs, just an example.

[CalebJ]

Originally Posted by Muroki2.3

Even easier is to go on amazon and buy what is called an EP27 for led lights. It’s your relay under your dash. You need to bust out the old Gumbi skills to get under there but it’s super easy to do and no wire splicing!

A solid state flasher is definitely the better fix here. You may even find them on the shelf at your local chain auto parts store.

[99Ranger376]

Originally Posted by CalebJ

A solid state flasher is definitely the better fix here. You may even find them on the shelf at your local chain auto parts store.

Couldn’t disagree more, splicing into factory wiring vs a plug and play flasher relay. I went with the NP27 flasher relay. I don’t have any problems and it can easily be put back to stock. I personally will not by a vehicle when someone has cut into the stock wiring.


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[CalebJ]

Huh? We're saying the same thing.

[stvz11]

You guys are awesome. The EP27 looks like it’s the most logical way to go! One question. If I change tbis relay out does it mean I will also have to put LED’s in the rear as well?

[Chevy_Country]

Originally Posted by 99Ranger376

Couldn’t disagree more, splicing into factory wiring vs a plug and play flasher relay. I went with the NP27 flasher relay. I don’t have any problems and it can easily be put back to stock. I personally will not by a vehicle when someone has cut into the stock wiring.


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You can remove the load resistor, Lol apples to apples the load resistor or the led relay, some prefer half full and some prefer half empty

I've had an issue with the relays in my Buick regal, whereas I've never had an issue with load resistors (besides heat damage) just personal prefer3nce

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Originally Posted by stvz11

You guys are awesome. The EP27 looks like it’s the most logical way to go! One question. If I change tbis relay out does it mean I will also have to put LED’s in the rear as well?

No, you should be able to run either led or incandescent lamps with that relay, glad we could (begrudgingly) help lol

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[99Ranger376]

Originally Posted by CalebJ

Huh? We're saying the same thing.

Sorry quoted the wrong person


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[stvz11]

Bought the eP27 flasher relay and haven’t had a problem since!

Thanks everyone!