spare tire carrier

wmott · #1 04-17-2017, 09:44 AM

My tire carrier is completely rotten, gone. Canister held up by rope.
Have parts truck with solid one.
Have all rivits ground off and punched out.
Moves slightly, but not much. Can't find info on how to get it out.
Any ideas?
Thanks

Mikerider · #2 04-17-2017, 10:14 AM

Silly question but Did you punch out the rivets after you ground them.

Once those are out some hammering should free it up. You may have to remove the bed bolts to allow for enough frame flex for it too come out.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

wmott · #3 04-17-2017, 01:43 PM

Not silly at all. I've done worse.
But yes, punched them out.
Thought I would check before beating it more. (To see if I was missing anything)

I'll give it another shot.
Thanks

RAT Ranger · #4 04-17-2017, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wmott

My tire carrier is completely rotten, gone. Canister held up by rope.
Have parts truck with solid one.
Have all rivits ground off and punched out.
Moves slightly, but not much. Can't find info on how to get it out.
Any ideas? Thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by wmott

Not silly at all. I've done worse.
But yes, punched them out.
Thought I would check before beating it more. (To see if I was missing anything) I'll give it another shot. Thanks

==================
From my experience on the 99 & 01 that I have removed them from, to get the frame to flex/open enough to get it out. Jack it up under the center of the rearend, as high as you can, put some jack stands under the frame ahead of the front spring mounts, carefully unbolt the shackle from the mount, and let the rearend lower so that the spring clears the frame. This will allow the frame rails to open enough to remove that heavy freakin hoist cross member.

Otherwise you are fightin a loosin battle with the springs!

Mikerider · #5 04-17-2017, 07:49 PM

You can always cut it out! Lol

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

RAT Ranger · #6 04-18-2017, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikerider

You can always cut it out! Lol

======================
His rotted one YES, but the one from the parts truck needs to stay intacted, unless he wouldn't mind welding it or get some flat strap and bolt it in.

This is what I did to my Son's 01 Chassis, cut the cross member behind the evap stuff, and put a 2x4 3/16th wall rectangular tubing. Rear bed bolt & bumper bolt go into the tubing and I welded the top of the frame to the top of the tubing.

wmott · #7 04-19-2017, 07:30 AM

Haven't got back to it yet, but I'll try releasing the springs.
Depending on how it goes, fustration level, and number of beverages, plan D is to cut it and gusset plate it back together.
Does this thing just hold the tire and evap canister, or does it also add to frame stability?

----------

Oh yea, thanks

Mikerider · #8 04-19-2017, 10:17 AM

It adds support to the frame rails, make sure if you mount the new one don't bolt it in (too much slop) needs to be welded or rivited

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

wmott · #9 04-20-2017, 03:22 PM

Ok,
Was afraid of that. Was thinking of just bolting. Guess I will need to look in to rivets or borrowing neigh ors welder.
And maybe that also explains my slightly more bouncy ride?
One in there now is all but gone. Have a rope thu 2 rot holes in the bed to hold up evap canister now. So on in there now is not adding much for stability.
(Still have not gotten back to it, hopefully soon

Thanks

wmott · #10 04-23-2017, 07:41 AM

So, have the carrier out of the old truck. All rivets are now punched out of it, and ready to start dismantling the runner.
Taking the springs off from the rear shackle really helped. Kinda scary how loose the frame gets.

wmott · #11 04-23-2017, 07:46 AM

Here's what the one in the runner looks like. I have a rope thru holes in the bed to hold up the evap canister.
Changing bed too.

Mikerider · #12 04-23-2017, 08:31 AM

Nice glad you were able to get the old one out in one piece

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

RAT Ranger · #13 04-23-2017, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikerider

It adds support to the frame rails, make sure if you mount the new one don't bolt it in (too much slop) needs to be welded or riveted

Quote:

Originally Posted by wmott

So, have the carrier out of the old truck. All rivets are now punched out of it, and ready to start dismantling the runner.
Taking the springs off from the rear shackle really helped. Kinda scary how loose the frame gets.

======================
Glad it helped. I just cut them out as I don't carry a spare there since I run my duals inside the frame thru that area and put a 2x4 3/16th thick rectangular tubing in place of it.

I'm a bolt-on person if possible just in case you have to remove whatever you install later. Grindin welds is a PITA IMO.
I always use Grade 8 hardware and if your worried bout backin off, tack weld the bolt or nut to the frame. Just my 02 & experience!

Quote:

Originally Posted by wmott

Here's what the one in the runner looks like. I have a rope thru holes in the bed to hold up the evap canister.
Changing bed too.

=====================
Holy Crap!

What does the rest of the rear frame section look like?

Mikerider · #14 04-23-2017, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RAT Ranger

I'm a bolt-on person if possible just in case you have to remove whatever you install later. Grindin welds is a PITA IMO.

I always use Grade 8 hardware and if your worried bout backin off, tack weld the bolt or nut to the frame.

It will work just fine with bolts, not an issue of strength it's a matter of fit up. A rivet is an interference fit where a bolt is a slip. You end up with play in the bolt hole that will elongate the holes down the road and won't transfer load between the frame rails.

Will it work bolted, yes

Will it cause problems down the road, I doubt it.

Is it as stiff as the factory set up. No.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

wmott · #15 04-23-2017, 02:38 PM

Finally got the bed off of the runner. I patched the frame a few years ago. For about 60 bucks a side, I found a place in RI that had the frame repair kit.
With over 300000 miles, and 16 years, I'm focused on required keep her moving repairs. Hoping to get another few years out of her.