truck looks like it belonged to a little old man. looks super clean for a truck that old in the northeast, and it's a big plus that it appears to have never been modified. it sounds like the transmission is wayyyy overdue for a service ( likely still the original 24 year old ATF ) if you are going to haggle the price, I would see if you can get them to offer some kind of warranty on the drivetrain components as part of the $2500 asking price. that or have them include a transmission service ( which includes a new trans filter & fluid, unlike a "flush" which is just new fluid) and a full tune up ( oil change, air & fuel filters, plugs & wires), again as part of the asking price. that or try to land the truck for $2000 and prepare to do those things yourself.

honestly seems like a good deal to me, i'm assuming you're in southeastern NY / northern NJ somewhere and the price seems on par with everything else available in the area.

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2000 XLT 4X4, 3.0, Auto, regular cab - throttle cable mod, K&N drop in filter, taylor thundervolt 8.2 plug wires, autolite sparkplugs, Accel coil pack, AVS Ventshades, Rampage LED tailgate light bar, BFGoodrich All Terrain T/A tires, Trail F/X toolbox, cruse control pod light fix, Cobra 19 ultra II CB, lil wil antenna, pioneer door speakers, expo woodgrain radio bezal, 06+ mirrors & tails, powerdome hood

2000 XLT 4X4 Offroad, 4.0 / auto, supercab - the project truck!

So after taking it to my mechanic, he said it badly needed the transmission fluid changed, but it didn't smell or look dirty. The clicking is because of the front hub(s). Needs to have one or both replaced, that's why it's slipping out of 4 wheel drive. Also, from just looking at the front wheels, while it was parked there, it looked like it needed an alignment (like I said earlier, from the test drive, it pulled alot to the right). Other than that, and the one rust hole in the quater, it's in good shape.


Yea, I am in that area.

I forgot to mention, after I brought the truck back to the dealer I didn't have time to hagel, as my dad, who drove me , was waiting impatiently and we had to go, he was late for an appointment.
I told them what my mechanic said about the hubs and they offered to sell me the parts at their cost, since they also own a repair facility. After a quick phone call, he told me that I need both the hub and the bearing, and I can get that for just under a hundred each side. Dad started beeping, and I told them I would think about it & do some research and get back to them by lunch time tomorrow.

Like I said, I am a bad haggler. .

I was thinking of asking them to throw in and install the new hubs if I pay the asking 2,500.

What do you think?

I think, if you're not slightly embarrassed by your first offer, then it's not low enough. If they take it, great. If not, they'll counter. I'd start at $1800 - $20000 with them doing the repairs and work up to $2500. Point out the unknown mileage, the rust on the bed, and anything else you can find. Never start with what you actually want to pay because they'll never come down to that. And don't get caught up in it and end up spending more than you want. If they won't meet your price, walk away. Find another one or go home and think it over and come back tomorrow. Personally, I'd be happy with $2000 and doing the repairs myself or $2500 and them fixing everything.

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2004 Edge 2wd 3.0 5spd Ext Cab
Sonic "still think I'm a teenager" Blue

OP bought and sold a few trucks. Im telling you that thing is not even worth 2 as it sits. Also you dont want them doing the repairs. They will break stuff and you will pay for it. 1500 in one pocket pull it out. Let them chew on it and have 5 in your other pocket. They likely are into it for a grand.

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1997 Ranger XLT 4.0L 2wd 3.55 open
RCX leveling coils, Pro Comp AAL, 1" BL
31x10.5x15 General Grabber AT2

I agree with that. I too would be happy with $2000 and doing the repairs myself or $2500 and them fixing everything.

You have a point there about them fixing things. My dad suggest that if they agreed they might say they fixed both and only fix the one side.

What's a repair like that cost?
Was the price I mentioned for the parts sounding right?
Does anyone know the estimated labor time for a job like that?

Also I am having a delima now. Mor of a problem actually. My dad was on standby today and got called into work. I can't get to the place at lunchtime, like I told them, to negotiate. Don't know if I should try negotiating on the phone. Also before I left them yesterday, one salesman said, so should I tell the other guy that was interested, it's sold or should I keep him on the hook. I said, I would not say anything till I come back around lunch time tomorrow.

Sorry to jump in, but based on the visual and the things you said that the truck needs, it's definitely not worth more than $1400-$1500 (if that). With that being said, a car is always going to be worth what the individual feels and wants to pay for it. It's smart asking for advice from different sources, just be aware of the good and bad that comes along with that purchase. Honestly, that car could be worth $12,000 to you and that's all that matters if you're comfortable with it. If you really want it, I say go for it.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

They're probably trying to play you, I bet you're the only interested party. Don't rush. Rushing into a vehicle is when you make mistakes and end up with a POS

No need to be sorry.
Opinions from many people are exactly what I was hoping for.

I would like to go there with 1700 cash and offer 15 at first going to 17, only if they don't fix it. Somthing tells me they won't agree to do the work even if I offer full asking price.

Why, how gracious of that nice used car salesman, see how your astute moves quickly got him on your side and now he's working so very hard to help you by holding it JUST for you and not "the other guy"?

Suggestion: ask him what the minimum down payment is if you were to make payments on it. You should pay attention to the answer.

Edit: You really should either submit to whatever he want you to pay him or learn and fully understand why a 24 year old anything exists on seconds car lot, then ask yourself if you're a buyer that needs to submit "those types of people" because it's the only way you can get a car/truck. FWIW, I'd love to hear the interest rate on a loan, best I've seen in these parts is 29.6%. Unf*cking believeable!

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2004 Ranger FX4 Level II, 5R55E, Sonic Blue Pearl

Proudly JAP/RICE free since March 2000

Thank you for your insight and the time you took to think about your response.

Good, and as for time don't worry a bit. It's more like the cumulation of decades of my shortcomings and successes, friends and their friends mistakes and successes, having a car salesman (gambling junkie, got busted and had to get a job, car salesman, a natural progression, lol) with a big mouth for a neighbor and knowing him since about 1986 (you'd probably chit if you knew the games these salesmen play on customers, other salesmen, other competing dealers, how they take advantage of gullible/inexperienced,in-a-hurry-to-buy buyers...remember, car salesmen do deals every day, they need to sell to make a commission and thus make a living, buyers..... probably do car deals a handful of times in their life, so......guess who is usually smarter, has the upper hand and why).

Here's a card to put in your back pocket; how it's played is your call but.....a good salesman almost always knows when a buyer is sold.

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2004 Ranger FX4 Level II, 5R55E, Sonic Blue Pearl

Proudly JAP/RICE free since March 2000

Clean truck inside! I would stay at $1500. You're gonna have to sink another $1K too. Craigslist often has more Rangers for sale. 1993 predates OBD2 and ABS brakes. Got airbags?

A '93 Ranger (like my '97) likely has badly rusted leaf-spring hangers, and rotted steel brake lines, corroded radiator, and cracked rubber fuel-filler hose (eg, fuel leaks onto the ground when filled up to the gas cap). The 4x4 front hubs (pricey) are these: https://www.amazon.com/Ford-F3TZ-3B3.../dp/B000O0I3UU
Looks like it has rust holes in the body sheet metal.

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1997 4x4 Mazda B4000 SE, Ext.Cab

So like I've said, I've sold a few. My go to line is "I've got someone else coming" to weed out tire kickers and the "I'll call you tomorrow" guys.

Show up with a crisp 1500. Don't call, pull it out and say here ya go. Stop dragging your feet. They're laughing at you for coming to look at this thing so many times. In the scheme of things, it's a POS broken down ancient ranger with unknown mileage. It'll never be worth more than it is today.

Best of luck.

EDIT: Look at the age of vehicles in my signature, very familiar with '90's sales LOL.

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1997 Ranger XLT 4.0L 2wd 3.55 open
RCX leveling coils, Pro Comp AAL, 1" BL
31x10.5x15 General Grabber AT2

Ok so update:

They were not prepared to budge one dime on the price. The negotiations ended with me saying, bottom line is that truck is not worth anything near 2500 with the problems it has. They came back with . OK, we are prepared to fix the hubs but we're not going down in price at all. Then I asked for a trans flush with new filter and a tune up too. They said OK. .I Put down another 300, and signed the papers. The other half of the balance to be paid at pick up, after the work is done. Was only another 410 for taxes, title, tags, & fees.
Now I am wondering about warrenty. I forgot to ask for it. Dammit.!

I think it's too late for anything on the truck, but I am going to call tomorrow and ask how long the work will be warrantied for. Because that should be standard. I don't want cheep parts being used that will crap out in a month or two.