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  #16  
Old 04-06-2017, 04:07 AM
EaOutlaw1969 EaOutlaw1969 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 901
Default Re: Financially too deep on my 2002 XLT 2wd Standard cab

This video shows a 2.3 duratec DOHC with no fan drive bearing installed.
So I am hopeful that I will be able to remove and replace the bearing in my housing without having to go through the process of replacing the entire cover.

I ordered some tools to help me get the fan clutch nut off off the shaft.
I will try and take pictures of my work if it works out and then I will post a thread about how to change just the bearing and threaded shaft for those like me that need just the bearing and do not want to replace the entire cover.

Everywhere I have looked so far people claim this is not possible but I guess I will find out soon enough.



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  #17  
Old 04-06-2017, 06:41 PM
Fordfan444 Fordfan444 is offline
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Default Re: Financially too deep on my 2002 XLT 2wd Standard cab

I'm sorry to hear about all your bad luck working on that 2.3 DOHC, but it doesn't surprise me because I had a 2002 that was basically identical to yours. I installed a engine in that truck, and I vowed never to work on a Ranger with that 2.3 DOHC again.
That engine is basically a front wheel drive car engine that was retrofitted with all kinds of BS to work in RWD truck.
The craziest part I seen on mine was that there's a coolant hose that runs all the way back behind the engine and if you have to replace that hose you basically have to pull the whole engine out to replace it.

P.S. Did you make sure that the fan doesn't have left handed threads?
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2004 black Ranger XLT- Sold
2004 Vista blue 2WD(custom paint job)Ranger XLT 4-door ext. cab with the 3.slow and auto trans black and blue FX4 Level II bucket seats with shorty console
2004 DSG FX4 with a 5R55E auto trans and 4:10 gears-Sold
2010 Redfire Metallic 2WD Ranger XLT,4-door ext. cab, 4.0 SOHC with auto trans, SLA front sus. traction control, Sirius Satellite radio and 3:55 gears
2003 red Ranger Edge 4X4, 4-door ext. cab -4.0 SOHC with a 5R55E auto trans

Last edited by Fordfan444; 04-06-2017 at 06:43 PM.
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  #18  
Old 04-07-2017, 10:56 AM
EaOutlaw1969 EaOutlaw1969 is offline
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Default Re: Financially too deep on my 2002 XLT 2wd Standard cab

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordfan444 View Post
I'm sorry to hear about all your bad luck working on that 2.3 DOHC, but it doesn't surprise me because I had a 2002 that was basically identical to yours. I installed a engine in that truck, and I vowed never to work on a Ranger with that 2.3 DOHC again.
That engine is basically a front wheel drive car engine that was retrofitted with all kinds of BS to work in RWD truck.
The craziest part I seen on mine was that there's a coolant hose that runs all the way back behind the engine and if you have to replace that hose you basically have to pull the whole engine out to replace it.

P.S. Did you make sure that the fan doesn't have left handed threads?
Thanks yes the fan does have reversed threads.

I will have my tools to deal with the fan clutch later today.

I got lucky today with part one of this project.

I was able to use a pully puller-installer from harbor freight that cost about 20 bucks along with a few pieces from a ball joint press and a hand full of fender washers plus my heat gun to remove the very large shaft- bearing from my new timing cover.

If my old bearing comes out with no problems like the new bearing did I plan on heating the old timing cover slightly with my heat gun and freezing the bearing then doing my best to tap the new bearing into the old cover.

Btw the hose your speaking of I have encountered those type in the past. Normally I carefully cut off the crush sleeve and remove the new hoses from the preattached pipe then just use hose clamps to install on the old wrap around pipe.

This is provided there is enough room to do that. I haven't gotten around to that ugly job yet

But it is on the list of to do items
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2002 Ford Ranger 2 Dr Standard cab 2.3 5 SPD 7.5 373 gears

Last edited by EaOutlaw1969; 04-07-2017 at 11:02 AM.
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  #19  
Old 04-07-2017, 11:14 AM
EaOutlaw1969 EaOutlaw1969 is offline
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Default Re: Financially too deep on my 2002 XLT 2wd Standard cab

This what I used so far to get the bearing out
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  #20  
Old 04-08-2017, 10:07 AM
Soledad Soledad is offline
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Default Re: Financially too deep on my 2002 XLT 2wd Standard cab

Ea, is that your pic or just an example to show the tool you used to remove the bearing? Did you end up pulling the timing cover off to remove the bearing?
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  #21  
Old 04-08-2017, 10:54 AM
EaOutlaw1969 EaOutlaw1969 is offline
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Default Re: Financially too deep on my 2002 XLT 2wd Standard cab

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soledad View Post
Ea, is that your pic or just an example to show the tool you used to remove the bearing? Did you end up pulling the timing cover off to remove the bearing?
Hi the last picture that I posted was of a new timing cover that I removed the bearing and shaft from using the tools seen in the pictures.

Today I was working on my truck and I did successfully replace the bearing and shaft assembly while the cover was still on the truck.

I removed the new bearing and shaft assembly from the new cover with a puller and using my heat gun to warm up the aluminum cover around the bearing.First I sprayed some wd40 into the air relief channel where the bearing hole is. Once you get the cover you will see this channel then I got it just hot enough where it was uncomfortable to touch with the back of my hand and just used the puller with a spacer from a ball joint press kit and some fender washers to remove the bearing assembly.

Once it was out I stuck the bearing in my freezer over night

Today I removed the old bearing from the old timing cover while it was still mounted to the engine. Using the above mentioned method.

I ended up removing the radiator and condensor and feed a air line through the passenger side of the grill to attach my air chisel to.

To install the new cold now slightly shrunken bearing I first cleaned the hole where the bearing belongs making sure to use a little fine sand paper to smooth out any rough surfaces I made sure not to make the hole larger. then I lubricated the hole with wd40 wiping off the small puddle on the bottom of the hole.

I found a 1/2 drive impact socket that was just small enough to fit in place of the bearing inside the cover yet large enough to contact the Outer cage of the bearing this socket is to be used to push the bearing in without damaging the bearing or shaft.
Then I put a 3/8 to 1/2 increaser adaptor in the socket.

At this point I had my air chisel connected with a medium size pointed tipped chisel in the tool just resting inside the black plastic cowl behind the grill.

I used my heat gun to warm up the timing cover bearing hole keeping the heat gun moving to evenly heat the large opening where the bearing assembly will get seated into.

I also had a small hammer ready on the core support and called my wife in the garage to continue heating the timing cover while I went to get the bearing assembly out of the freezer.

I coated the outer bearing cover with wd40 then quickly tapped the bearing in place using the socket and hammer to get it started and make sure it was straight then the air chisel and socket to drive it home.

If your going to try this I will say it has to be done quickly before the aluminum has a chance to cool off or the steel bearing has a chance to warm up.

It went perfect the bearing went right in with the power of my air chisel and you can tell it did not take a lot of force to get it in there, this is because the bearing was slightly smaller than normal and the timing cover hole was slightly larger. So installing it was easier than removing the bearing using only heat.

Anyways I plan on writing up a how to in the 4 cylinder tech section on this forum once my back recovers.

I still have to reinstall the radiator and condensor plus fan shroud and fan clutch etc but my back is done for today.

Here is a picture of the new bearing installed with the c clip installed.

What was confusing is everywhere I looked everyone claimed that to replace this bearing you have to change the cover which may as well mean replacing the timing chain the crank sensor the valve cover gasket the intake gaskets crank bolt and washer plus diamond friction washer and whatever else is found while it is apart not to mention all the tools and time needed to do this job.

I am glad I didn't go that route doing it this way sure you will have to get your Ac system pumped down then change the dryer and do a good evacuate and re charge but it sure beats cracking the engine open when you do not need to.

I am guessing if you were in good shape with a good neck and back and had a new bearing frozen ready to go this job could be done in about two maybe three hours or less.

It has taken me much longer because of my neck and back. But at least I was able to do it and I couldn't be happier.

Btw I couldn't have been more wrong about the threads on the fan clutch, on my 2002 they are standard thread left loosen right tight, which is why I couldn't get it off. Man how embarrassing the worse part is I figured this out before because I was the one whom installed the new fan clutch My back and neck was hurting so much I ended up out of frustration cutting the damn thing off with a sawzall
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_1753.jpg (96.1 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1754.jpg (93.8 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1755.jpg (94.6 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1756.jpg (95.9 KB, 16 views)
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2002 Ford Ranger 2 Dr Standard cab 2.3 5 SPD 7.5 373 gears

Last edited by EaOutlaw1969; 04-08-2017 at 11:25 AM.
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