I am in search of recommendations on brake pads. My son in law just had the brakes inspected at a reputable local shop that recommended new pads only since the pads were down to 10-15%. The shop checked rotor thickness and run out and both were well within spec. Rear brakes were done 18 months ago after a wheel cylinder failed. Since I have modest skills, I thought I would do the repair myself when I got home. So what brands and composition are recommended? What you got on your truck?

I also recommend new pads only... the used ones suck. As far as which ones? Depends on what kind of driving you do most. As a daily driver, I usually get the mid grade type. Not real cheap, not too expensive. If you do a lot of city driving with stop and go all the time, you may want to get the little more pricier pads that perform better for that type driving. Just remember that brakes are important... lives depend on them. If you DIY, then please make sure you read up on it and you feel confident about your work.

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1995 Ranger XLT 3.0L OBDII
Trans: A4LD (E) 2WD
Rear: 7.5 / 3.45 NL LHD
Tires:GY P235 75/R15 (orig 225 70/R14)
Long Bed, 20 Gal Tank
Up to 229,900 miles

Makes sense to go mid grade since my truck is a secondary vehicle. Brakes are very important. I do feel confident with a walk thru guide in the How-to on this site. My attention to detail has allowed me to successfully service a dozen motorcycles I have owned as well as several 5 series BMW sedans without problems. That said....its a truck I havnt worked on before. Thanks the reminder. Complacency can kill.

I would recommend Wagner Thermoquiet or Carquest Wearever Platinums from Advance. I prefer a ceramic material, it keeps the wheels cleaner longer and in my experience, last much longer than semi metallics. That's an entire argument within itself. It's all subjective though. I hated the OEM Motorcraft pads because they wore fast and created a ridiculous amount of brake dust, but someone else may love them. You get what you pay for, I firmly believe in that.

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2007/08 FX4 Off-Road Level II / SCT tuned / GNTX Auto Dim Comp Temp Rearview Mirror / Mustang Dome Light / LED Turn, Brake, Reverse, Fog Lights / 4.10 Torsen Rear / Black Leather Interior / Jumpseat Delete / Lift Shackles / Lightly Cranked #1 T-Bars / 32x11.50x15 AT3s

I didn't see you say anything about using used pads, so I am confused, but ok.

I recommend EBC Green Stuff pads. I put them on along with their slotted rotors, couldn't be happier. Stops awesome now. https://ebcbrakes.com/product/greenstuff-brake-pads/

+1 on ceramic here too. Metallic used to be the craze but it throws rust on the wheels and looks like crap. I'll only use ceramic.

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00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 my new baby
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap in progress.
98 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 dead
99 EXPO donor motor for dead one and parts for the others.
Newest Ranger Forum

I was thinking of doing the same thing. Did you buy the 2000, 6000, or 7000 series?

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2008 Ranger Sport 4x4

7000, with some slotted rotors. If you don't need rotors, I would still use their pads.

I've always heard such mixed things about their pads, some negative and some love them. I've never used them because of that.

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2007/08 FX4 Off-Road Level II / SCT tuned / GNTX Auto Dim Comp Temp Rearview Mirror / Mustang Dome Light / LED Turn, Brake, Reverse, Fog Lights / 4.10 Torsen Rear / Black Leather Interior / Jumpseat Delete / Lift Shackles / Lightly Cranked #1 T-Bars / 32x11.50x15 AT3s

I've never heard anything but good. And I will second those. I was and am very happy with them.

If youre doing pads, i personnaly would just do that rotors as well. But thats me. I have just the mid grade pads and rotors from NAPA now on my 96, they work fine.

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1995 f-150 4x4 4.9 inline 6 5-speed
1996 Ranger 3.0 2wd Auto 4r44
2008 Ranger 4.0 4x4 Auto 5r55 extended cab

I put the top tier O'reilly's brand pad on mine when I first got it. They're called the Brake Best Select Ceramic. They're OK, but I probably wouldn't go back to them. They don't dust too bad and they're quiet, but the initial bite sucks, and they have to be warmed up a bit before they'll really stop you.

If you are doing pads, you need to cut the rotor face as well. If you don't, you'll find that the pads will wear unevenly due to the natural run out that occurs during normal use of brakes. This makes the rotor "uneven" and causes vibration issues. In the industry, when we do a pad only install, we call it pad slapping. And it almost always ends with someone coming back with vibrations or shakes needing the rotors cut. (or turned in proper terms)

As to the pads, I always buy the best pads for my personal vehicle. I drive hard and I need my cars to perform as such. I like Hawk pads, I use them on my Mustang (which has the big ass Brembo brake package from the track pack) They are a Ferro-Carbon material. Generally, the softer the pad the quieter the brakes and better the performance but also the shorter the life of the pads. The harder the pads are will lead to longer lifespan but lower performance. Each one has its trade offs. If you want to do any reading, these are the pads I use: http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/Hawk-P...b453f.585f.htm
They don't have the ranger listed on their page but they do list the Explorer so they may carry the ones you need. I wouldn't buy them direct as they a bit pricey that way. I got mine online for about half what the retail price is. I also use them on the rear.

There are several great lines of cheaper pad out there though, ranging from the Wearever and in house brands to Akebono etc. Avoid using the "lifetime" warranty advertising as a determining factor in your decision though. Brake pads obviously don't last a lifetime, and that marketing seems to hook a lot of people into buying them.

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White 1998 Ranger XLT SuperCab 4.0 4x4 StepSide

The pads may wear unevenly. Doubtful that the rotor actually wears unevenly. The VAST majority of 'bad rotors' that people claim the rotors are warped (diagnosed by the famous 'pulsing pedal'), is actually simply pad material that is unevenly deposited on the rotor face. Turning will eliminate this.

I have never heard of a rotor actually being out of balance enough to cause noticeable vibration.

I've been fixing brakes for 22 years. New rotors in the box many times come warped. The best mechanics know this and many times cut .001 off brand new rotors to be sure. Cutting .001 will immediately show whether to rotor is true out of the box. Any rotor, regardless of its material makeup, is going to warp period. You are talking about a metal that is constantly in contact with another material and gets to 150 degrees or so in normal operation. In heavy use situations, like descending a mountain highway, they can reach 400 degrees. Metal expands and contracts with temperature variance. Over time it has done this many, many times as you use your brakes constantly everytime you drive the car. They warp. They all warp, some more than others. Not cutting the rotor face is like playing Russian Roulette with a 6 shooter holding 5 bullets.

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White 1998 Ranger XLT SuperCab 4.0 4x4 StepSide