I want to know if the front tires are suppose to spin at the same time when in 4x4 low?

Only one front tire and one back tire spinning while in 4x4 low seems weak... If the front's locked I would have easily drove out of it. I want to know if the vacuum locker failed on one side? Or do they not lock like that?

It didn't look that big while driving into it lol It was about 15 feet long with about a 1.5+ foot peak in the middle, Not fluffy snow, It appeared to have melted and refroze into somewhat of a hard ice snow. I have some off brand all terrain tires with allot of tread left on them. It was stuck on the torsion bars and rear axle.

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2000 4X4 XLT 3.0 Automatic
1990 2X4 2.3 Manual

Your 4x4 switch controls the shift solenoid on your transfer case as well as the vacuum lock hubs in your case. Once the vacuum locking hubs are locked, switching between 4x4 high and low does nothing to your front axle. It only changes the gearing ratio in your transfer case. Meaning you have an open differential (only one tire spins) when you are in both 4x4 high and 4x4 low.

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It is very possible that one of your front vacuum lock hubs is inoperative (they are garbage). However, even if you purchase manual locking hubs, you will only have one front tire and one rear tire spin regardless of 4x4 high or low. That is just the nature of the beast with open differentials. If both tires were locked together it would not allow you to take corners.

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2002 2.3l, 2wd, manual transmission, 160k miles

No it will not lock both front wheels the front is an open carrier and it is still possible that only one front wheel will be powered but in 4 low it can help reduce chances of that happening.

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2003 XLT FX4 Level II
Painted skid plate, Pioneer double din, painted radio bezel/door handles, headlight mod, throttle cable mod, Gibson cat back, afe cold air, 06+ fender badges, Remote start, 06+ mirrors,06+corners, 35W DDM HIDs 4500k head and fog lights,polished alcoas

Vacuum and manual locking hubs only serve as a connection between your hub and CV axle. When the hubs are unlocked, the CV axles spin independently of the hub. When the hubs are locked, the CV axles and hub spin together. The hub locking action does not change the way your front differential behaves. Only if the axles and hub are to move together or not.

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2002 2.3l, 2wd, manual transmission, 160k miles

Ahh OK Thanks for the info fellas!!

Is there anything I can upgrade in my transfer case to lock the fronts in 4x4 low? I was rather embarrassed to be stuck in such a small snow drift.. lol Plus I plan on offroading my truck after I get a economy car in the summer time.

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2000 4X4 XLT 3.0 Automatic
1990 2X4 2.3 Manual

Limited slip would be the best option IMHO which would go in the front diff nothing to mess with on the transfer case it has nothing to do with locking wheels

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2003 XLT FX4 Level II
Painted skid plate, Pioneer double din, painted radio bezel/door handles, headlight mod, throttle cable mod, Gibson cat back, afe cold air, 06+ fender badges, Remote start, 06+ mirrors,06+corners, 35W DDM HIDs 4500k head and fog lights,polished alcoas

Thanks for the input, I'll check into that, for the rear also, Or maybe I'll just buy a winch!

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2000 4X4 XLT 3.0 Automatic
1990 2X4 2.3 Manual

I'm willing to bet one of those hubs didn't lock in when you went into 4x4, you would need either terrible tires, one hell of a drift, or ice on the ground under the snow to get ''stuck'' in a spot like you said

If you are mechanically inclined enough, you could mod the hubs to stay locked full time until you purchase the RR hubs

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Brandon

2000 Ford ranger 4x4 steppie 3.0
Deep Wedgewood Blue
Cooper Discoverer AT'3 265/75/16

Ya, I'm thinking it's very possible one didn't lock as you said. Is there a way to test them? I don't want to buy new ones if they are both working fine. I have free towing with my insurance so I'm not really worried about getting stuck on road, Plus I keep a little snow shovel in the bed during the winter.

Thanks again everyone for your help!

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2000 4X4 XLT 3.0 Automatic
1990 2X4 2.3 Manual

4hi : transfers power to the front wheels.
4lo : transfers power to the front wheels in a lower transfer case gear ratio...low range.

Don't know what transmission you have, but imagine a 10 speed bicycle......4hi relates to starting from a stop in 5th gear. 4lo relates to starting out in 1st. Can't go very fast but it's very easy to start out. The theories apply to hi and lo gearing in a transfer case.

98-00 trucks use PVH and the hubs engage via vacuum when switched into 4hi (and subsequently 4lo as well). 00+ trucks have live axles which means they're locked/engaged 100% of the time. Meaning the front axles and driveshaft always spin whether you're in 2hi or 4hi/lo. The "freespin" is in the transfer case only. Explorer has been live axle since '95 and the PVH in 98-00 Ranger proved problematic and weak. Live axle is far more reliable and strong. Weak link is now the CV shaft itself. Can eat a little more fuel, but it's likely non-measureable or noticeable. Don't know which you have, so I assume either one.

Your front axle is an open differential.......meaning it transfers power to the side which has the least resistance. Many rear axles are the same way. The term "one wheel peel" comes from an open differential leaving only one black mark on the pavement when performing a burnout. If you were in 4hi or 4lo and one of your front tires were in sand and the other on dry pavement, when gas is applied, the one in sand would spin freely while the other on pavement stays still because the powered is transferred to the tire wish the least resistance.




Wasn't talking down....it just seemed as though you didn't know how 4wd systems operate is all.

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'01 XLT disguised as a '03 Fx4 Level II.

It's about time someone actually answer this guys question. I was reading all the replies scratching my head. He was asking a simple question and no one seemed to answer the question. Spot on.

If you want more than just one tire to spin per axle, you need to change your differential, to a limeted slip or plenty different types of part-time lockers. It will be expensive though. This problem plagues most people who off-road. When stuck, majority of the time all that's needed is power to the other two wheels.

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2000 Ford Ranger XLT - 4x4 Off Road - 3.0L - 5speed - 4.10 - 3in BL - 2in Torsion Lift - Lokka Front Locker - RCI Skids - Rancho Shocks - Super Start Extreme AGM Deep Cycle Battery - Cragar Soft 8s - 33x12.50 BFG M/T KM2 w/ Hitch Mounted Spare - Smittybilt XRC8 Winch - On Board Compressor - Hidden Snorkel

If one side of your hubs didn't lock, the differential would have transferred all of the power to the side that didn't lock, so neither front wheel would have turned. I don't think the hubs are why you were stuck.

Also, My 2000 XLT has live axle. Make sure yours doesn't before wasting time and money on manual hubs.

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2000 Ford Ranger XLT
Extended Cab
3.0 Flex
4x4
Manual Transmission
Offroad Package

i have a question i have a 2000 ford ranger with automatic hubs and when i turn 4x4 on and begin to accelerate a loud banging/grinding starts happening and i slow down and turn back to 2wd. would this be my hubs not working right? thats what i am guessing based on my research

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2000 ranger stepside 3.0 supercab. ion alloy 171 rims 15x8 with -27mm offset, 33x12.5x15 wrangler duratracs, after market grill insert, tuff running bars, 3in body lift, leveling kit, add a leaf spring, cold air intake, SCT livewire Tuner, uws lp toolbox, and Rancho 5000 shocks for 2.5 inch lift

Where is the noise coming from? Could be a number of things. If your 2000 has a live axle like me and I think everyone else, your front CV axles and drive shaft are spinning in 2wd. The only disconnect occurs at the transfer case. So unless the added power from the transfer case is grinding something that stopped working, may not be your hubs. I'm completely guessing and that's just what makes sense. Very curious what it could be. Let us know when you find out for sure.

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2000 Ford Ranger XLT - 4x4 Off Road - 3.0L - 5speed - 4.10 - 3in BL - 2in Torsion Lift - Lokka Front Locker - RCI Skids - Rancho Shocks - Super Start Extreme AGM Deep Cycle Battery - Cragar Soft 8s - 33x12.50 BFG M/T KM2 w/ Hitch Mounted Spare - Smittybilt XRC8 Winch - On Board Compressor - Hidden Snorkel

its coming from the front of my truck i think drivers side and its only in 4x4 when i accelerate

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2000 ranger stepside 3.0 supercab. ion alloy 171 rims 15x8 with -27mm offset, 33x12.5x15 wrangler duratracs, after market grill insert, tuff running bars, 3in body lift, leveling kit, add a leaf spring, cold air intake, SCT livewire Tuner, uws lp toolbox, and Rancho 5000 shocks for 2.5 inch lift