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02-02-2010, 06:57 PM
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Flyin High
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,874
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Right Tool for the Job?
Spent most of the day working on my truck and didn't accomplish my goal. Was going to flip the shackles but only got one off and it was the easy one. Only had two rivets to grind out and two bolts. The other side has all 4 rivets and two of them I can't get to with the grinder. Was going to use an air hammer but couldn't find the chisel bit, go figure. So I put it back together and will try to be better prepared next time. Just wanted to vent a little.
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03 RANGER EDGE 3.0
60/40 Seat Mod, Expo Full Console, Expo Mod Diff Cover, Thunderbolt Signal Mirrors, Flowmaster, Billet Grills, One Piece Halo Projector Headlights, HID Fogs w/Halos,
LED Lightbar, Euro Taillights, Interior Accents Painted, OHC, Indigo Cluster, 7" LCD Headunit, Mustang Dome Light, Manik Brush Guard
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02-02-2010, 06:59 PM
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Mazda B4000 Driver
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 495
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I usually drill out rivets not grind em off much quicker and easier
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02-02-2010, 07:00 PM
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yup
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,407
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u take ur bed off?
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2001 XLT 4x4 V6 4.0L auto
SAS'd D44 and 8.8. dual lockers, 38s, 12 bolt h1's, some other odds and ends
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02-02-2010, 07:26 PM
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Flyin High
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,874
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No, didn't take the bed off, doing it by myself. I can see where that would make it a lot easier. I thought about drilling them but drill is dead.
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03 RANGER EDGE 3.0
60/40 Seat Mod, Expo Full Console, Expo Mod Diff Cover, Thunderbolt Signal Mirrors, Flowmaster, Billet Grills, One Piece Halo Projector Headlights, HID Fogs w/Halos,
LED Lightbar, Euro Taillights, Interior Accents Painted, OHC, Indigo Cluster, 7" LCD Headunit, Mustang Dome Light, Manik Brush Guard
PNW CREW
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02-02-2010, 07:27 PM
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Mazda B4000 Driver
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pbav8tor
No, didn't take the bed off, doing it by myself. I can see where that would make it a lot easier. I thought about drilling them but drill is dead.
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wow you should buy a cheap 19.00 drill to help out
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02-02-2010, 07:32 PM
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I am THE Hank Hill.
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pbav8tor
No, didn't take the bed off, doing it by myself. I can see where that would make it a lot easier. I thought about drilling them but drill is dead.
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Battery powered drills will take probably the same amount of time as a grinder. That's just my experience with drilling stuff. You can get a super cheap 1/2 inch arbored drill at any hardware store.
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92 Ford Ranger Supercab XLT 4X4. Not a ton done to it, but it's nowhere near finished 05 Chevy Silverado 1500 W/T 4X4 Way too much done to list and it's also not even close to done
"The only woman I'm pimping from now on is Sweet Lady Propane. And I'm tricking her out all over this town."
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02-02-2010, 07:41 PM
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Mazda B4000 Driver
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmeh
Battery powered drills will take probably the same amount of time as a grinder. That's just my experience with drilling stuff. You can get a super cheap 1/2 inch arbored drill at any hardware store.
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who mentioned battery powered?
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02-02-2010, 08:09 PM
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Ford Ranger Driver
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,197
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I say get a friend, pull those 6 bolts and remove the bed. OR....imagine a HUGE bodylift with like rubbermade big storage boxes between the bed and frame. TONS of room to work with a grinder. Grinder is seriously the best option for shaving/cutting those rivets off. Ditch the rivet heads, beat hanger with hammer, hanger off, punch remaining rivet through frame. done. lol.
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'01 XLT disguised as a '03 Fx4 Level II.
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03-05-2010, 08:42 PM
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Bones man
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 84
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Re: Right Tool for the Job?
Go to harbor freight and pick up a 1/2" Drill. Get a small drill bit and drill pilot hole in the center of the rivet. Then grab a big bit (Larger than 1/2" if you have one). Use the larger bit and just drill in far enough to take the head of the rivet off. Then beat the rest of the rivet out with a bit hammer and a punch. Its super easy and you wont tare anything up with the grinder. That's how I remove all rivets on my truck and customer's trucks.
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03-20-2010, 11:31 PM
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Grumpy Ole Man
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,012
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Re: Right Tool for the Job?
Quote:
Originally Posted by RD1087
Go to harbor freight and pick up a 1/2" Drill. Get a small drill bit and drill pilot hole in the center of the rivet. Then grab a big bit (Larger than 1/2" if you have one). Use the larger bit and just drill in far enough to take the head of the rivet off. Then beat the rest of the rivet out with a bit hammer and a punch. Its super easy and you wont tare anything up with the grinder. That's how I remove all rivets on my truck and customer's trucks.
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Definitely the easiest way, doing it like this for years on rivets of any kind.
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Cree Proverb
~Draw me not without reason, Sheath me not without honor~ 17th century swordmaker Gallegos
~1994 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4-Banger 217, 000+miles~
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03-20-2010, 11:36 PM
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Banned
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,005
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Re: Right Tool for the Job?
i tried doing the pass side when i did mine with the bed on and ended up cutting thru my hanger. decided it would be easier to take the bed off and it was done in a half hour each side.
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03-24-2010, 12:57 PM
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Ford Tough
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 318
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Re: Right Tool for the Job?
if i was closer i would come and help for the charge of helping me do mine lol
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1999 2 wd4 cyl2.5l5 spd135k
MODS:5% tint all around Night Shades (Extra Dark)Corners Thrid BrakeTails Air silence removed 2006 Mirrors Flowmaster Super 44 (Weld on & Turn down)
35W 5000K Hids
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03-24-2010, 05:34 PM
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Flyin High
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,874
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Re: Right Tool for the Job?
I still haven't gotten this done. I think that I will be at least raising the bed so that I can work under it. And I would help someone do thier's if they helped me.
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03 RANGER EDGE 3.0
60/40 Seat Mod, Expo Full Console, Expo Mod Diff Cover, Thunderbolt Signal Mirrors, Flowmaster, Billet Grills, One Piece Halo Projector Headlights, HID Fogs w/Halos,
LED Lightbar, Euro Taillights, Interior Accents Painted, OHC, Indigo Cluster, 7" LCD Headunit, Mustang Dome Light, Manik Brush Guard
PNW CREW
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