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  #1  
Old 08-25-2013, 06:26 PM
swatman55 swatman55 is offline
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Default Tips on repainting truck's roof

So rust has has started to make its way under the paint right where the windshield meets the roof, and the paint is bubbling. So tomorrow I'm going to remove the gasket around the windshield, I'm going to sand off the paint to where the rust has advanced to and a little past (not sure which grit sand paper to use). Then I'm going to use a shitty sand blaster to get the rust out of the pits. Then I'm going to fill in the pits with body filler, let it set, then sand down the metal with 400 grit (I'm not sure about what grit to use for this either). Then I'm going to prime the metal with a professional spray gun (or a spray paint can if acceptable) a few times, then paint it with the closest paint I can find. Also I'm going to install a visor soon, so I was thinking of drilling the holes before I start painting. Any advice, tips, or praise for encouragement would be appreciated!!
Thank you guys!!
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1997 Ford Ranger XLT supercab 2WD 2.3L

Westin Brush guard with 55w halogen lights. Cb radio hooked up to a PA speaker. Chrome airhorns hooked up to a aircompressor behind the jump seats. Changed tires size to 235/75 15R. Led brake bar. Blue Led under bedrails. Pioneer radio. Much more on my to do list
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:32 PM
djfllmn djfllmn is offline
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Rule number one...never use bondo to fill rusty areas...metal needs to be cut out and replaced

Sent from my HTC One X using FRF App so you can hate on my F150 no matter where I am
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:33 PM
2004 fx4 level II 2004 fx4 level II is offline
sooo fuckin deeeaaadddd
 
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Default Re: Tips on repainting truck's roof

Quote:
Originally Posted by djfllmn View Post
Rule number one...never use bondo to fill rusty areas...metal needs to be cut out and replaced

Sent from my HTC One X using FRF App so you can hate on my F150 no matter where I am
haha I was gonna say dj knows this stuff and u already post lol!!
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:34 PM
djfllmn djfllmn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2004 fx4 level II View Post

haha I was gonna say dj knows this stuff and u already post lol!!
Lol

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Old 08-25-2013, 07:00 PM
swatman55 swatman55 is offline
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I don't have the time or tools to do something like that to my roof.
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1997 Ford Ranger XLT supercab 2WD 2.3L

Westin Brush guard with 55w halogen lights. Cb radio hooked up to a PA speaker. Chrome airhorns hooked up to a aircompressor behind the jump seats. Changed tires size to 235/75 15R. Led brake bar. Blue Led under bedrails. Pioneer radio. Much more on my to do list
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  #6  
Old 08-25-2013, 07:00 PM
MBFX4 MBFX4 is offline
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Default Re: Tips on repainting truck's roof

You can use body filler on the rust if you have blasted it out. If you blast it an pin holes or cracks are noticeable then the metal is to thin and will need the section cut out and welded in, if the metal cleans up nice after blasting it sand the area with 80 grit then apply a good body filler, such as USC products like All-metal or Icing. NO BONDO, bondo holds moisture and will just cause it to rust and bubble again. Apply the quality fillers in thin coats, block sand the area, then feather out the area around it with 320 grit. You can then use a 2k primer to fill any fine imperfections and to help seal the filler and paint edges, you can then block the area with with 320 grit again fallowing up to 600 grit. You are then going to wetsand the entire roof with 1000 grit to insure proper adhesion. Now after you have masked the roof off and covered the vehicle you are ready for sealer. For a small area like this you can get by with a 1 part sealer, transtar makes a quality sealer for a quick spot application such as this and it is affordable. It requires no hardener, but you can reduce it some to help it lay smoother. After you let the sealer set up you can then move on to your base coat. your very first coat should just be misted on lightly to help the fallowing coats have something to bite into and will help not fish eye or lift. When blending you want to first spray your color on the sealed area in coats until it is covered. Once full coverage has been reached you now will "blend" the area. You do this by thining your basecoat more and when spraying at the ends of your paint zone flip the spray out past the coverage area to allow the paint to mist and blend in with the rest of the color. You can now do two options depending on the color and how well you blended. Option one is to just clear the entire roof as is and if you did everything right you wont have a blend edge and wont notice any color changer between your base coat and original paint. Option two is to then wetsand the blend zone with 1500 grit to smooth the blend zone out and then dry the area, tack the roof to clean it then spray your clear. When you spray clear the first coat I prefer to mist on then by the time I finish misting the tack coat from my starting point will be ready to lay my first heavy coat. You will spray your heavy coat wait your clears recommended flash time and then spray one last coat on this one if you want you can reduce the clear a little to help it flow out better. Now your roof is painted. From there you can decide if its good or wetsand and buff if the clear didn't lay nice enough your call... but that's a whole different lesson. Hopefully this helps if you need any more details just ask.
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:00 PM
djfllmn djfllmn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatman55 View Post
I don't have the time or tools to do something like that to my roof.
Then find someone that does...do it nice or do it twice

Sent from my HTC One X using FRF App so you can hate on my F150 no matter where I am
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  #8  
Old 08-27-2013, 07:49 PM
shawn_house102 shawn_house102 is offline
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You could always tske it to your local career center for auto body I know it should be cheap but the teacher will not let anybody mess with it and the down side is it'll be gone for a couple days to two weeks just like a body shop would..
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:50 PM
96_4x4_XLT 96_4x4_XLT is offline
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Bedliner!!!

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