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  #1  
Old 12-17-2012, 06:11 PM
Max.E.Mumm Max.E.Mumm is offline
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Default Rear Door Latch, Door Ajar -- Solution

Like many others, I have had my share of grief from the "door ajar" light and problems closing the door properly (or opening). I've found several solutions and I will share them with you.

First off: if the problem is that your rear door latch is rusted out, you can try WD-40 or PB along with white lithium grease (or graphite based oil sprays) -- however, it is likely that you will need to replace the latch. Rather than order new, I went to my local JY. No four door Rangers, so I decided to pull the rear door latch off of a 2001 Ford F-150 and try to fab them. Turns out that the rear door latch from that model year Ford F-150 is IDENTICAL to the Ford Ranger, with one exception: there is no solenoid switch included with the F-150 version. Now, that makes sense to me. We already have a door ajar sensor for the front doors, who cares about the rear doors as long as they catch? Obviously Ford thinks the same way otherwise they would have put a sensor on the rear doors of the F-150, don't you think?

Which leads to the next solution: if your latches are working (catch on close and open properly), then you can easily bypass the door ajar solenoid on the rear doors. It's pretty simple. The solenoid is held in place by a small plastic tab (see the picture, I have put a red square where it is located on the latch assembly). Lift the plastic tab, turn the solenoid in the same direction as the location of the tab, and the solenoid comes out easily. You will notice that the solenoid trigger pin is "out" when the door is closed, and "in" when the door is open. Perfect!! With the solenoid taken out of the latch assembly, the pin is "out" indicating the door is closed. Leave the solenoid plugged into the wiring, and do not replace it in the latch assembly. Secure the wire by taping it to the latch cable and leave it dangling. This will have absolutely no effect on your dome light, and the door ajar will never fire because of an open rear door -- only open or ajar front door.

Enjoy!
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1999 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab Off-Road, 4.0l OHV, Auto, 372Km (now sold)
2003 Ford Ranger XLT FX4, 4.0l SOHC, Auto, 375Km original, 132Km on engine/transmission.
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  #2  
Old 12-17-2012, 06:18 PM
SageXi2 SageXi2 is offline
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Default Re: Rear Door Latch, Door Ajar -- Solution

thanks for sharing this info
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  #3  
Old 07-04-2013, 02:50 PM
italian88 italian88 is offline
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What about two door rangers with this problem? You didn't put a solution for those.
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  #4  
Old 07-04-2013, 03:16 PM
Mike In Bama Mike In Bama is offline
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Wouldn't he kind of have to HAVE a two door truck to offer a solution?

2005 2.3L XL Electronics Tech since '70's
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  #5  
Old 07-04-2013, 03:54 PM
italian88 italian88 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike In Bama View Post
Wouldn't he kind of have to HAVE a two door truck to offer a solution?

2005 2.3L XL Electronics Tech since '70's
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1999 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 off road package, Step side bed, Extended cab, 3.0L vulcan v6, 4.10 open gears, Kicker ks-98's in all four stock speaker slots, After market jvc head unit, JL Audio single 12'' W3 sub eoofer in ported box, JX-500/1 class D amp, Memphis 8AWG wiring with inline fuse, Spectre cold air intake, 4 spd with o/d auto transmission
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  #6  
Old 07-04-2013, 10:15 PM
Max.E.Mumm Max.E.Mumm is offline
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Default Re: Rear Door Latch, Door Ajar -- Solution

The solution I posted is clear in that it is for rear doors. The issue with front doors is entirely different. Once you solve yours, why not post your own thread and help others out?
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1999 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab Off-Road, 4.0l OHV, Auto, 372Km (now sold)
2003 Ford Ranger XLT FX4, 4.0l SOHC, Auto, 375Km original, 132Km on engine/transmission.
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  #7  
Old 07-05-2013, 07:17 AM
ewill510 ewill510 is offline
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Default Re: Rear Door Latch, Door Ajar -- Solution

Hey do you have any advise for me I have this problem but my ds bottom latch is seized so I can even open the door!
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  #8  
Old 07-05-2013, 10:10 PM
Max.E.Mumm Max.E.Mumm is offline
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Default Re: Rear Door Latch, Door Ajar -- Solution

Yes, I think I can help. If you look at the picture in my first post, the white part is where the electrical connection plugs into. That is the part of the latch that is closest to the rubber plug at the bottom of the door. If you remove the rubber plug and use a flash light, you can see the lever that actually opens the latch -- it is located closest to the outer door skin. You need to push down on the side closest to the rubber plug to get the latch to open. Use a screw driver to push down on it. Just a reminder, do not try to yank on the door handle, all that will do is break the cable.
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1999 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab Off-Road, 4.0l OHV, Auto, 372Km (now sold)
2003 Ford Ranger XLT FX4, 4.0l SOHC, Auto, 375Km original, 132Km on engine/transmission.
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  #9  
Old 07-13-2013, 04:00 PM
hammertime4 hammertime4 is offline
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Default Re: Rear Door Latch, Door Ajar -- Solution

Thanks for the post Max having read your posts and to pick up small hints from other posts you guys have solved the issue that I was having, now all latches work and the rear latches will never give me an issue again.
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  #10  
Old 09-09-2013, 08:40 AM
MisterAsta MisterAsta is offline
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Default Re: Rear Door Latch, Door Ajar -- Solution

If only I'd found this thread before spending 5 hours rebuilding my door latch the other night...

I'll bet nobody else out there has a rear door latch that features a shiny acorn nut where one of its rivets was, tho!

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  #11  
Old 09-09-2013, 10:38 AM
RevPaul RevPaul is offline
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Default Re: Rear Door Latch, Door Ajar -- Solution

When I shut the rear doors on my Ranger, I place my hand low on the door to swing it shut. I find it is the lower latch that has trouble locking up tight, and that's why the idiot light comes on. Since being aware of this I have no trouble.
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  #12  
Old 11-10-2013, 08:26 AM
FLMazda FLMazda is offline
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Default Re: Rear Door Latch, Door Ajar -- Solution

Quote:
Originally Posted by Max.E.Mumm View Post
Like many others, I have had my share of grief from the "door ajar" light and problems closing the door properly (or opening). I've found several solutions and I will share them with you.

First off: if the problem is that your rear door latch is rusted out, you can try WD-40 or PB along with white lithium grease (or graphite based oil sprays) -- however, it is likely that you will need to replace the latch. Rather than order new, I went to my local JY. No four door Rangers, so I decided to pull the rear door latch off of a 2001 Ford F-150 and try to fab them. Turns out that the rear door latch from that model year Ford F-150 is IDENTICAL to the Ford Ranger, with one exception: there is no solenoid switch included with the F-150 version. Now, that makes sense to me. We already have a door ajar sensor for the front doors, who cares about the rear doors as long as they catch? Obviously Ford thinks the same way otherwise they would have put a sensor on the rear doors of the F-150, don't you think?
If I understand this correctly, I think it may solve the issue I'm having. I recently bought a 2000 Mazda B3000 and the previous owner removed the lower strikes as well as the bulbs from the dome light. The door ajar light is lit on the dash, which is quite annoying...as is not being able to use my dome light.

So if I replace my latches with the F-150 latches that will no longer be an issue, correct?

~~~

I used to have a 2001 Ranger XLT extended cab with flare sides & the 4.0. I got a job that had me driving 120+ miles a day & they were only giving me a $75/week gas allowance. I foolishly gave up that truck for a Honda Civic. Now I'm back in a truck again (albeit one with no power windows, locks or mirrors that needs a bit of work), but it's not as nice as my 2001...everything worked on that truck & damn I miss it!
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  #13  
Old 11-11-2013, 07:40 AM
Max.E.Mumm Max.E.Mumm is offline
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Default Re: Rear Door Latch, Door Ajar -- Solution

You need the latch mechanism that is bolted to the bottom of the door to properly close your rear door. A latch from a Ranger, Mazda B, or F-150 will work. To get the door ajar issue resolved (and in your case get the overhead light and dash working properly, you will need to hook up a solenoid -- just don't put the solenoid in the latch. Leave the solenoid hanging. When it is not in the latch mechanism, the pin is extended (to the solenoid, that means the door is closed and all of your electrical and electronics will work properly.)
If the first post is not clear: the solenoid is attached to the latch mechanism on a Ranger or Mazda B. It is what the wire connects to. All you have to do is pull a small tab and twist it out of the latch mechanism -- and never put it back in. That means that the solenoid will be loose in your rear door, so, use a tie-wrap or black electrical tape and secure it to any part of the door so that it isn't banging around. It's a simple fix and everything will be working.
You still have to deal with the latch itself and any rust issues. Where the latch is mounted with three bolts through the bottom is a very poor design. That is where water collects and contributes to the latch rusting. So, if you are replacing the latch, load it up with grease - particularly at the bottom where it bolts to the bottom door frame. I pointed out that the latch mechanism from an F-150 is identical to the Ranger/Mazda B -- the F-150 latch does not have a solenoid. If your solenoid is missing, you will need to get one to get your overhead lights and dash working the way they should.
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1999 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab Off-Road, 4.0l OHV, Auto, 372Km (now sold)
2003 Ford Ranger XLT FX4, 4.0l SOHC, Auto, 375Km original, 132Km on engine/transmission.

Last edited by Max.E.Mumm; 11-11-2013 at 07:47 AM.
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  #14  
Old 11-11-2013, 02:52 PM
DubstepNinja DubstepNinja is offline
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Default Re: Rear Door Latch, Door Ajar -- Solution

I was having this problem for a long time. but after the door was closed it would go away after a day or two. i solved it by leaving the driver side rear door closed all the time but recently i went to open the door and the bottom latch wont even open. i pull the handle and the top latch lets go, but the bottom latch stays closed. does this sound like just the latch or does it sound like the cable is broken ?
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  #15  
Old 11-11-2013, 05:20 PM
FLMazda FLMazda is offline
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Default Re: Rear Door Latch, Door Ajar -- Solution

Quote:
Originally Posted by Max.E.Mumm View Post
You need the latch mechanism that is bolted to the bottom of the door to properly close your rear door. A latch from a Ranger, Mazda B, or F-150 will work. To get the door ajar issue resolved (and in your case get the overhead light and dash working properly, you will need to hook up a solenoid -- just don't put the solenoid in the latch. Leave the solenoid hanging. When it is not in the latch mechanism, the pin is extended (to the solenoid, that means the door is closed and all of your electrical and electronics will work properly.)
If the first post is not clear: the solenoid is attached to the latch mechanism on a Ranger or Mazda B. It is what the wire connects to. All you have to do is pull a small tab and twist it out of the latch mechanism -- and never put it back in. That means that the solenoid will be loose in your rear door, so, use a tie-wrap or black electrical tape and secure it to any part of the door so that it isn't banging around. It's a simple fix and everything will be working.
You still have to deal with the latch itself and any rust issues. Where the latch is mounted with three bolts through the bottom is a very poor design. That is where water collects and contributes to the latch rusting. So, if you are replacing the latch, load it up with grease - particularly at the bottom where it bolts to the bottom door frame. I pointed out that the latch mechanism from an F-150 is identical to the Ranger/Mazda B -- the F-150 latch does not have a solenoid. If your solenoid is missing, you will need to get one to get your overhead lights and dash working the way they should.
Ugh. I suspect the previous owner cut them off because the latches weren't working. I can't find the strike plates anywhere, and now it looks like I'll have to find latches too.

Thank you for your response though...I really do appreciate that.
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